Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Het guy, and gals,

 

who out there is running this kit? What size tire did you go with? I don’t mind the stock Denali wheels so I would like to keep them too. Thanks.

 

 

BD69E6A2-156D-4C32-9C2E-606446BD6289.png

Posted

lots of people.

take a look over at FB

 

I was going to go with this kit, but I could not get it. No arms in stock. about 6 weeks out.

I live about 40 miles from them and was wanting to go pick it up.

 

I ended up going with the Cognito kit with the new high clearance tubular control arms. No cutting of bumpstops and tons of clearance

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I went 37's on stock wheels. Got the Cognito Premier leveling kit being installed as we speak.

IMG_8981.JPG

  • Thanks 1
Posted
12 hours ago, gSwift said:

I went 37's on stock wheels. Got the Cognito Premier leveling kit being installed as we speak.

IMG_8981.JPG

So this pic is after level installed? And those are the 37” tires? Any rubbing issues? Looks to be set fairly level huh..

Posted
20 hours ago, gSwift said:

I went 37's on stock wheels. Got the Cognito Premier leveling kit being installed as we speak.

I highly doubt the 37s on stock wheels will clear the control arms. my 275s on stock wheels are about 1/4" from the edge of the cognito ball joint pocket. any wider tire on stock wheels would rub.

let us know how it works out. post pics ??

Posted
11 hours ago, Londart2020 said:

So this pic is after level installed? And those are the 37” tires? Any rubbing issues? Looks to be set fairly level huh..

 

3 hours ago, kylant said:

I highly doubt the 37s on stock wheels will clear the control arms. my 275s on stock wheels are about 1/4" from the edge of the cognito ball joint pocket. any wider tire on stock wheels would rub.

let us know how it works out. post pics ??

This picture is with 37's and the torsion bars turned up, no lift kit yet. It didn't rub on the stock control arms, not sure about the Cognito arms. Truck should be done tomorrow, so I guess we'll see. If it does rub, I have a hub-centric spacer i'll use.

Posted
On 10/24/2020 at 7:38 AM, kylant said:

lots of people.

take a look over at FB

 

I was going to go with this kit, but I could not get it. No arms in stock. about 6 weeks out.

I live about 40 miles from them and was wanting to go pick it up.

 

I ended up going with the Cognito kit with the new high clearance tubular control arms. No cutting of bumpstops and tons of clearance

Which high clearance Cognito upper control arms are you referring to? I’m interested but don’t see anything listed for the 2020 2500’s

Posted (edited)
17 hours ago, gSwift said:

Which high clearance Cognito upper control arms are you referring to? I’m interested but don’t see anything listed for the 2020 2500’s

these: https://cognitomotorsports.com/i-30499664-cognito-standard-upper-control-arm-kit-gm.html#!submodel%3DTRUCK||model%3D2500||make%3DGM||year%3D2020

 

they have a more pronounced bend in the leading arm allowing for much more droop/down travel.  the boxed arms (same as Kryptonite) are more straight. The Cognito instructions call for cutting the service perch/frame bumpstop down. I did not want to do that.

Edited by kylant
Posted
1 hour ago, kylant said:

gswift

lets see the final product.

show your angles, etc...

any rubbing on the UCA? how close?

thanks

I'll clean it up today and get some shots. 

 

With stock control arms the 37's worked fine and only rubbed the liners. With the lift and the Cognito control arms, the 37's cleared the control arms by 1/4 inch with the wheels straight, but when it was near full lock the tires rubbed the control arms as you stated. So I pulled off the wheels and mounted my billet 1" wheel spacer and now clear the control arms perfectly. All it needed was some trimming on the liner and the mud flap.

 

As far as angles go, I end up buying the SuspensionMAXX diff drop. I don't really think it was needed since I only lifted slightly less than 3", but it probably helped get them slightly flatter. 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well, I pulled the trigger a few weeks ago and ordered the Kryptonite stage 3 kit, get it installed tomorrow. Going with the Toyo AT3, in 35x12.50, guy at the shop said he didn’t think 37” would fit, and that they day I called they were doing an AT4 as we spoke w/35” and they were going to have to do quite a bit of cutting to get them to fit, but it was with after market wheels. I will post pics when I get it back. 

Posted
2 hours ago, Londart2020 said:

Well, I pulled the trigger a few weeks ago and ordered the Kryptonite stage 3 kit, get it installed tomorrow. Going with the Toyo AT3, in 35x12.50, guy at the shop said he didn’t think 37” would fit, and that they day I called they were doing an AT4 as we spoke w/35” and they were going to have to do quite a bit of cutting to get them to fit, but it was with after market wheels. I will post pics when I get it back. 

LOL tell your guy at the shop he doesn't what he's talking about. I clearly ran 37's with ZERO issues once I trimmed the liners and flaps. But i also had stock 20's

Posted
On 1/27/2021 at 11:45 AM, gSwift said:

LOL tell your guy at the shop he doesn't what he's talking about. I clearly ran 37's with ZERO issues once I trimmed the liners and flaps. But i also had stock 20's

Well I am also sticking with the factory wheels, and I dont really want to bend or cut anything on my 5 month old $80K truck. Just picked it up and I love the look and stance. Happy with what I got.

 

Posted

Not the best pic, but this was right after she was done, and I was dropping the old tires off at the old mans for him to give to a friend..NO rubbing, NO cutting/bending anything..

leveled.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just installed a Kryptonite Stage 3 Levelling kit on my '21 AT4 HD and I am debating between tire sizes to run on the stock wheels.  

 

Main considerations for me are;

- no rubbing on frame or control arm at full lock or during suspension articulation while driving off road.

- ideally no wheel spacers to make it work

-  trimming or tying back liners is no issue but id rather not start hacking things up beyond that.

 

Tire sizes I'm looking at

35x12.5R20 - which clearly fit no problem as per the above post.  Very similar to stock size (except wider) which looks a bit on the small side with the levelling kit (IMO).

325/60R20 - has anyone that's run this size on stock wheels that can comment on fitment?  This seems like the best size IMO, also comes in factory load & speed rating which is nice.

37x12.5x20 - Sounds like these work with no cutting just wheel spacer and some trimming?  

 

Any & All comments are welcomed.  Looking at the Toyo AT3 as my favourite.  Unfortunately they're hard to find in Canada right now, especially in the 325/60R20 size.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,982
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    nolankd
    Newest Member
    nolankd
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 440 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • For a limited time, retail accounts receive a free fender cover (G2803) with their order of $750 or more when they use code FENDER926 at checkout. The promotion runs through Sept. 8, 2026. Own a business and want to apply for a retail account?  Apply here. https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/sell-in-your-store/?zo=521390  
    • Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...