Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have had my truck for about a year now and ever since I bought it its been throwing this code I need help narrowing down the causes. usually the check engine will light up usually after about 5 miles of driving it or on a hill then after I clear it It may come on again in 50-100 miles seems to do it more at a full tank and then after half a tank gone. p219a shows on the scanner every time occasionally it will throw P219b and a and then once every couple of months it will show the first two codes with a misfire in cylinder 3. now I have done the spark plugs and swapped coils for cylinder 3 and it still shows c3 misfire. I have some screenshots of the data shown when the code happens if that will help anyone figure it out for me. the emissions results when it scanned always have a failed evaporations system, either oxygen sensor heater fail or oxygen sensor fail sometimes both, check engine light fail, and trouble codes failed.

Posted

Check the following

Possible causes:

  • Intake manifold leak at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Fuel injector issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Ignition  system issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Cylinder compression imbalance.

The most likely is a vacuum leak at the intake manifold.  Take a small propane tank and use it to check around the intake manifold where it meets the head.  You are looking for a change in idle speed/roughness.  Since this has been going on for about a year, and started from the day you got it, I have to wonder if this was why the truck was traded in.  You will want to do a complete compression check.  Remove all spark plugs when doing a compression check.  You are looking for a difference between cylinders.  They should be fairly close to equal.  Suggest you not replace anymore parts unless they test bad.  Diagnosis by wallet is rarely successful.

What other codes are you getting? 

Posted

The code that always pops up is P219A bank 1 air/fuel imbalance then occasionally P219B bank 2 air/fuel imbalance. Then every once in a while I will get a P303. Other then the codes popping up the truck sounds and drives fine. Although on hills it likes to stay in a lower gear so it sounds more ruff and I can occasionally feel that cylinder misfire I think. I have a fixed reader so I’ll attach the last freeze frame from today cause that 303 code popped up again.

D6EDB096-ED49-4956-B0C5-61333E81A574.png

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/4/2021 at 9:36 AM, Doug_Scott said:

Check the following

Possible causes:

  • Intake manifold leak at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Fuel injector issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Ignition  system issues at a specific cylinder on bank 1.
  • Cylinder compression imbalance.

The most likely is a vacuum leak at the intake manifold.  Take a small propane tank and use it to check around the intake manifold where it meets the head.  You are looking for a change in idle speed/roughness.  Since this has been going on for about a year, and started from the day you got it, I have to wonder if this was why the truck was traded in.  You will want to do a complete compression check.  Remove all spark plugs when doing a compression check.  You are looking for a difference between cylinders.  They should be fairly close to equal.  Suggest you not replace anymore parts unless they test bad.  Diagnosis by wallet is rarely successful.

What other codes are you getting? 

I did just find that there appears to be a bolt in the very back of the bank one manifold there a hole there for one. It appears to have broken off at some point. Could that be the problem? And how would you even begin to remove the stud left over if there is a broken one in there. It’s the last hole by the firewall

1DCE591D-513A-4FCD-94A5-1388FA543A36.jpeg

Posted

That is the exhaust manifold.  A common issue that will not have an effect on the fuel management/engine roughness.  If you are hearing an exhaust leak you will want to have it repaired.  This is not an easy (as in skill level) task unless the broken bolt has enough of itself sticking out of the head to allow you to use a stud extractor tool to get it out.  The task ranges from being able to get the broken bolt out just by removing the exhaust manifold to having to remove the cylinder head and having a machine shop get the broken bolt out.  If you cannot hear an exhaust leak, leave it as is.

 

 

  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,739
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    chfkief
    Newest Member
    chfkief
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,538 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...