Jump to content

120v outlet in bed

mcgee500
 Share

Recommended Posts

guncrib New Member

guncrib

Posted
Posted

Got a long driveway and was hoping to use a 6.5amp pole saw to help with clearing it. Guess I'll have to stick to gas or battery power. The plug ins are so much cheaper and I use the truck to haul the debris away anyway so I was hoping it would work. There's a 6amp option available so I'll try it and if it doesnt work I can always take it back.

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Jrodpic
Jrodpic

Think someone nailed it with the tailgating. Will easily handle a TV. 

lojack_1776
lojack_1776

If you understood how to design a DC to AC inverter you would see how much it costs to create an inverter and power it. Consider that every amp of 120ac requires 10 amps of 12dc, if the inverter

dgstarr63
dgstarr63

This is basically a joke! I have always driven GM products and am 95% happy with my 2021 Silverado, but this was created by GM as a sales decoy. The interior outlets can be used to charge a cell phone

Posted Images

4banger Enthusiast

4banger

Posted
Posted

400w inverter is better than nothing, no it's not a full 1000w or 2000w or 3500w generator and maybe guys wish their motors to be that, the majority of people don't own generators so the majority of vehicles won't have inverters and output capabilities this high. Majority of people do however have laptops, phones, and other personal rechargeables and a shat ton of people like to tailgate so coolers, speakers, electronics and things of that nature it would seem...a charging option...not a main power option. 

 

I'm pretty happy about the 400w, construction guys can go buy a generator as they are by far a minority. I have generator too so don't hack on me lol. I have some battery generators that can charge from solar, 115v etc. and the 115v chargers mostly under 400w so my 4 season off grid trailer can be charged from truck with it's 230w charger if the 360w of solar panels on the trailer isn't keeping up but ya I'm not gonna run a 1500w heater...that's what my diesel heater is for, drawing only 20w.

  • Like 1
4banger Enthusiast

4banger

Posted
Posted
On 6/9/2022 at 7:12 AM, guncrib said:

Got a long driveway and was hoping to use a 6.5amp pole saw to help with clearing it. Guess I'll have to stick to gas or battery power. The plug ins are so much cheaper and I use the truck to haul the debris away anyway so I was hoping it would work. There's a 6amp option available so I'll try it and if it doesnt work I can always take it back.

it's a charging supply not a power supply, plug your battery chargers in while you drive and start the job when you get there, nice option but you cannot expect manufacturers to offer inverters the size you see on a 3500w honda generator to the engine bay somewhere to make 2% of the population happy that need that level of remote power outside their home...take your chain saw, grab your generator...but the 98% who have things that need recharging...are covered, well done gm for fitting in at least 400w of inverter power to 115v 

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
lojack_1776 New Member

lojack_1776

Posted
Posted

If you understood how to design a DC to AC inverter you would see how much it costs to create an inverter and power it.

Consider that every amp of 120ac requires 10 amps of 12dc, if the inverter was 100% efficient, which they are typically 85-90% on a good design.

So if you want a higher wattage inverter, you need to increase the size of your wire and increase the amperage of your alternator.  You will likely need to add another battery as well.

Another challenge for inverters is peak instantaneous current handling.  Designing an inverter to handle current surges is very expensive and creates an efficiency tradeoff.

So complaining about your 400W and saying it is useless to me is whining, I have found plenty of uses for mine.  If you need more wattage, pony up and start building one up.  You will be able to do it a lot cheaper than an automotive manufacturer will charge you for it. 

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
  • 10 months later...
15 Z71 Senior Enthusiast

15 Z71

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, Jmkirkland said:

I use mine for tailgating.  I have a 120v pittboss pellet smoker and it works just fine plugged in to my truck bed.  I absolutely love it!

I assume truck must be running when using it? I have not used mine yet.

  • 3 weeks later...
Chevyspeedster Enthusiast

Chevyspeedster

Posted
Posted (edited)

:cheers: Just in case anyone is looking for the wire schematic for the Box / Bed Accessory Power Outlet Receptacle.

Bed Outlet.PNG

Bed Outlet1.PNG

Looking into tapping into this and using it for a LED bed light signal myself...

Edited by Chevyspeedster

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined

  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 495 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Snowcamo
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By Snowcamo · Posted

      Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...