Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone know if the ride comfort will be noticeably different between settings on the Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks (#24-309509)?  Wondering if anything other than the stock height setting will be noticeably stiffer?  Thanks in advance for any insight.

Posted (edited)

I can attest to how they felt on my previously owned F150.  I had them on the middle setting and the quality was good.  When I took all the rake out and put it on the max setting the truck felt bouncy to me, not stiff at all.  I really liked the ride in the middle setting.  GMC/Chevy may be different but I doubt it.

Edited by Rackumrack
Posted
1 hour ago, Rackumrack said:

I can attest to how they felt on my previously owned F150.  I had them on the middle setting and the quality was good.  When I took all the rake out and put it on the max setting the truck felt bouncy to me, not stiff at all.  I really liked the ride in the middle setting.  GMC/Chevy may be different but I doubt it.

Wow.  That's the opposite of what I expected.  I figured the max setting would cause more stiffness.  Thanks for the info.  

Posted (edited)
6 hours ago, Rosshog said:

Wow.  That's the opposite of what I expected.  I figured the max setting would cause more stiffness.  Thanks for the info.  

Depends on what coils you run with them just as much as the struts themselves. 

Edited by superhighsierra
Posted

i believe you can run lift springs with bilstein kit as well.....check out Eibach they make most of the springs for all the coilover/shock companies.....in conjunction with adj shock you can get bit more height without having to use highest settings on shock

 

 

Posted

I have Bilsteins on all 4 corners. This is mine set at the 2.5 height in the front. Prior to the Bilsteins, I had a 2 inch under strut Readylift spacer with stock shocks. The Bilsteins are a much better ride.

 

I've never ran them at the 2 inch setting, but I've heard that its a bit more forgiving. I went with the full 2.5 because I've read from a couple people that the 2 inch setting doesn't quite get you a full 2 inches. If you are worried about the ride, you could always keep the shocks at stock height and run a top spacer.

 

Stock was too floaty and was terrible at recovering from large bumps. Under strut spacer + stock shocks were a bit stiff. Bllsteins at top setting feel great to me ?

20210226_145909.jpg

Posted (edited)
On 2/27/2021 at 10:11 AM, Rosshog said:

Stock coils

 

Gonna be somewhere in between. Spring rate is more important than the strut in relation to softness. 

 

If you do any serious off-roading that obviously would not be a great setup, but if it's 98% on pavement, and you are just looking for a couple extra inches, you are probably going to be satisfied. But like anything it's a give and take. You are also going to change the geometry of your CV axles, ball joints, tie rods, etc. If you are going to stick them at 2.5 I'd also recommend that you run aftermarket UCA's and extended end links to keep it tight. 

 

If it were me, I'd go for something like this: https://www.alligatorperformance.com/cognito-210-p0874-3-inch-performance-ball-joint-leveling-kit-with-fox-ps-coilover-2-0-ifp-for-19-20-silverado-sierra-1500/?gclid=CjwKCAiAm-2BBhANEiwAe7eyFPjcTn21I1lrM3lRhd151ogEz_hdf3AzTEnz3F3mnPEEg90pNfvDnBoC8ygQAvD_BwE

 

5100's are the best budget set of struts & shocks IMO. However, if you are going to spend $500 on shocks and another $300 on labor, you might as well do it right and replace the coils and add UCA's hence why I'd go for something like the Fox lift I posted above. But your line of thinking is correct and you are actually improving your vehicle unlike 99% of the morons on here installing Rough Country components and bolting on straight garbage to get a couple extra inches on their 60k vehicles. 2.5 - 3" is the sweet spot for sure. 

 

Whatever you do make sure you get it aligned after you do it. Again to spell it out for future reference: 

 

Front Struts

Coil Springs

UCA's 

Extended End Links

Rear Shocks

 

Optional: +1 leaf spring in the rear if you want to keep the rake

 

Will give you a proper 2.5-3in lift in the front and a proper 1-2in lift in the rear. But like I said whatever you do, get ready to change some CV Axles, Ball Joints, etc. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by superhighsierra
Posted

I probably should have clarified that I currently have an AT4 with the Rough Country 1318 2" level kit that I'll be removing.  This level kit consists of a 1" spring spacer and a 1" lower strut spacer.  It caused my truck to be higher in the front by about 1/2" - 3/4".  At least that is how it appears.  The specific 5100's I'll be installing (# 24-309509) have three settings: stock height, .55", and 1.1".  Given my situation, should I install at the 1.1" setting to get closer to a true level?  Just worried about stiff ride at the max setting.  Or I could install at the middle setting (.55") along with the 1" lower strut spacer to give me approx. 1.55" front lift.  Would this ride smoother than the shocks alone at the 1.1" setting?  I have 3" rear blocks i could install if the front still appears nose high.  I'll also be adding Cognita UCA's.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm doing nearly the same as you. I have a 1.5" motofab I haven't installed and I don't think I will.

 

I contacted Cognito about installing their 1" top spacer with their UCA's and then running Bilstein 5100's at .55" and they advised against it. Their engineer said the Cognito UCA uses the strut as the travel stop and since the Bilsteins are longer it will be hitting and possibly damaging the ball joint by traveling too much. They said using just the Bilsteins with their UCA was good. I didn't ask about a lower spacer though. If you do, will you let me know?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • same here , i have a 2020 first gen and the cost to repair these engines far excedes replacement
    • But Grumpy I did show several subdivisions that had homes starting in the 170K range. If you bought a Townhouse or Condo you could go cheaper. Same with a car 3000 dollars in the 70s translates to around 20K today. There are several models at that price. You actually get more for the money. In the 70s I drove a 3000$ car bought a 28K home and made 4.50 per hour. Thank goodness for overtime. Today I could buy a 170K house drive a 20K car and make 25 dollars an hour operating the same machine today. The difference the house, car, machine would be better and have AC. And I wouldn’t be taxed on overtime. And statistically your wife works too. Easing the burden. I thought we agreed to disagree. I brought receipts earlier, showing examples. I think you’re more stubborn than me. I was done with this debate. 
    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...