Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've had my 2000 yukon XL (supercharged 6.0) for just over 5 months now and I've noticed I've got a lifter tick going on. The engine has 130k miles. The tick sometimes gets louder and sometimes gets softer at idle but its always there. I don't think it gets louder when I accelerate but I'm not 100 percent sure. I recently took it to my mechanic and he told me that he would have to take the heads off and replace the lifter. He told me this job could easily be over $3,000. Im going off to college soon and cant afford that so I told him I would sleep on it. After doing more research I've seen some guys using sea foam and other engine cleaning products but having limited success. (I also don't want to try an engine flush as I've heard some pretty bad things about them.) Ive seen a lot of guys replacing the O ring gasket on the oil pickup and that has made me think about how sometimes (only at idle) the oil pressure fluctuates and twitches pretty often. Could this be the problem I'm having? Could replacing that gasket make the lifter tick go away? The only reason I think this couldn't be the case is, as soon as I start to accelerate the oil pressure holds steady around 70psi and doesn't budge. I also get pretty good oil pressure at idle. It fluctuates around 40 and 45 psi but like i mentioned before, it does jump around a bit.

 

Hopefully replacing the O ring gasket will fix it because its definitely a cheaper repair than taking the heads off but I wanted to get some other opinions before I do anything. 

 

Posted (edited)

If you have a lifter tick, that makes me believe that lifter has a problem and it needs replaced. Engine flushes are for removing sludge. Pull a valve cover to see if you have a sludge problem. The o ring cant be wasted or oil pressure would be more affected IMO.

Sounds like you're dealing with a limited budget. If it was me I would try short oil/filter change intervals, like 3 k miles. It may help after a while and not expensive. Maybe try 100% synthetic oil like Amsoil?

 

Edited by diyer2
Posted

Your oil pressure is great. Not the issue. 

 

Lifter tick can be varnish between the lifter body and internals. Puts a bit of slack in the system. It can also be a lifter with a failing check ball assembly which bleeds the lifter off enough to produce the same slack. That will vary with rpm. Ticking is looseness in the valve train. It can also be a rocker or push rod tip wearing out but in your case the intermittent nature says she's more the likely just dirty and sticky. 

 

If 'sticky' is the case then a flush can help that. A failing part is replacement.

 

The horror stories of a flush come from doing it improperly or doing it to motors that have been neglected, poor oil maintenance. dyier2 calls it well. Pull a valve cover and look. If it looks pretty good, clean, then a flush might be the ticket. If it looks bad...hum....there isn't a good solution that cost next to nothing. 

Posted
5 hours ago, diyer2 said:

If you have a lifter tick, that makes me believe that lifter has a problem and it needs replaced. Engine flushes are for removing sludge. Pull a valve cover to see if you have a sludge problem. The o ring cant be wasted or oil pressure would be more affected IMO.

Sounds like you're dealing with a limited budget. If it was me I would try short oil/filter change intervals, like 3 k miles. It may help after a while and not expensive. Maybe try 100% synthetic oil like Amsoil?

 

I forgot to mention in the original post but I changed the oil when it first started ticking and the oil that looked perfectly fine, no sludge or anything. Only thing is the old oil filter I took off was a brand Ive never heard of before, and I'm guessing it was your bargain basement filter. Some brand called "Federalists Automotive" doesn't even come up with a google search lol. When I changed it I put a K&N filter on along with full synthetic mobil 1 5w-30. And since its supercharged I'm guessing its seen full synthetic almost its whole life.

 

Im pretty certain the previous owners took good care of the car, as in they have kept up with oil changes and such. I've known them for a little while, only thing is I know it was driven really hard. Could the lifters really start going bad on an engine with 130k miles?

Posted

Update: I put some marvel mystery in there and while it will take a while to work its way through the engine, I decided I might as well post these videos I took to see and anyone could confirm or deny that this is lifter tick. On the first start up this morning after the MMO was added, there was no tick at all. As the engine heated up it slowly became louder. One video is a warm start and the other is just me revving. Sounds like the ticking sound gets quieter when I rev..

 

 

 

Posted

Sounds like an exhaust leak and a lifter tick.

 

Look for broken exhaust manifold bolts on the headers.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My post above is the direct reason for my outsized interest in keeping what I have for as long as possible. My memory isn't as short as some. 
    • I don't think so. 😏 Cars? Our experience will diverge there as well. I was buying cars with 200K (1970's) when I started and quite a few were pretty solid cars. (My early stuff was 1964 to 1968)  Some stinkers but not the dismal picture painted above. Now that said, yes, a dealer wouldn't talk to you if your car had more than 60K on the clock and lot cars were 60K or less except the back row where 100-120K was the auction bought for dirt for us poor losers. Kids in my county were not allowed to wear long pants if they couldn't rebuild and repair every part of that beast.    I will agree that many parts are now better. Alternators and charging systems are an envy. But I replaced few water pumps or power steering pumps then. Rebuilt carburetors but replaced few. Mufflers are another place of OEM improvement. Stainless? We didn't have no stink'n stainless.    As long as humans are in charge of governance this $$$$ situation will not improve.    The purchasing power of a dollar in 1955 is significantly higher than in 2025, meaning that a dollar could buy more goods and services in 1955 compared to 2025 due to inflation over the years. For example, what you could buy for $1 in 1955 would require approximately $10.50 in 2025.  Calculator.net inflationtool.com   Comparison of Purchasing Power: 1955 vs 2025 The purchasing power of a dollar has changed significantly from 1955 to 2025 due to inflation. Below is a breakdown of how much more money is needed in 2025 to match the buying power of a dollar in 1955. Purchasing Power Overview Year Equivalent Value of $1 in 1955 1955 $1.00 2025 $10.50 Key Points Inflation Impact: The value of money decreases over time due to inflation, meaning that the same amount of money buys fewer goods and services in the future. Example of Inflation: What could be purchased for $1 in 1955 would require approximately $10.50 in 2025. This illustrates how inflation has eroded the purchasing power of the dollar over the decades. Understanding these changes in purchasing power is crucial for financial planning and assessing economic conditions over time.  Wikipedia Calculator.net
    • The thermometer has been in my wife's 2008 envoy, my sons 2016 chevy, my friends 2020 1500 silverado all showing cooler readings. It's not the guage.
    • Have a question concerning trim levels. Ive not bought a new vehicle since 2006, and I have decided on a 2500 gmc pro or silverado custom. For anyone that has one of these 2 trim levels have you regretted not stepping up to the LT or SLE. I look at things as the more electronics the more problems to arise. I love the look of the old school gauges on the dash as well. Looking forward to hearing your thoughts. 
    • If that guage has a way to adjust [hex on bottom], put that thing in a glass full of ice, put water in, put your gage in, let it sit for 3 minutes or so, and set it to 33 degrees.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...