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Posted

Hey all, 

 

anybody know what mods I can do to help with the efficiency of my power? (For eg, lighter pulleys etc) I don’t know what’s hot and what’s not here. I’ve basic engine mods and don’t want to spend $$$ on getting more personality out of the truck. I’ve heard gears are a good start. I’m rwd btw

Posted

Nobody has ever changed pulleys and gained anything.

 

Rear end gears depends on what you have now and what you are willing to give up. If you went down to 3.08's that would make it slower but also lower the rpm on the freeway, which could improve mileage. Or you could go up in gears to 3.73's or 3.90's to improve performance and also maybe help with mileage depending on where you live. Maybe it won't down shift as much and cause more fuel usage.

 

Get light weight wheels and tires. Anything heavier than stock is hurting mileage, big lifted trucks will notice that more. Drive slower overall, if the speed limit is 70mph, do 65 instead.

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Posted

I think I may not have explained myself well enough. I’d like to plant the power to the tires more efficiently. I’m not too concerned about gass

Posted

I think I may not have explained myself well enough. I’d like to plant the power to the tires more efficiently. I’m not too concerned about gass

Posted (edited)

Gears and traction bars if you have wheel hop issues and need more traction.

 

4.10's or 4.56's with a tune will run like hell in a light weight truck. A lowered RWD truck is going to need traction bars from somebody like cal-tracs. You'll get wheel hop/axle wrap like crazy if you don't have something like that.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted

I don’t have many mods. I doubt I’ll hop lol as cool as that would be!😁. I’ll only have intake/l86 tb& mani, muffler delete and a tune 

Posted

Gears = worthless for anybody that has normal sized tires, has 4wd, and 8 or 10 speed.

 

for the amount of money and labor it cost to change the gears in the front and rear diffs for negligible results, you’d be way better off just putting that money into making more power.

 

This equation becomes even more true with more transmission speeds.

 

There are two torque multipliers, your transmission and your axle ratio. All that matters is how many times the motor spins to how many times the tires spin. When you have 10 f-ing speeds in your trans, it can create nearly whatever freaking ratio it wants to at any time. Changing just the rear end ratio does jack ****** unless you have monster tires and you just want to take some mechanical stress off the drivetrain components between the diff and the transmission.

Posted

I have a six speed, rwd. I have 24’s on 305/35’s. Not sure how big the diameter is. Is it still a waste of money? I don’t have sc or turbo money atm. Or is there anything else that you’d suggest that would give more life or personality to it? I do city/hi way driving and don’t tow. I’d like as much acceleration as possible keeping in mind that I don’t want to be doing 5500 rpm at 130kms/hr. Is there a specific gear for this? Or another type of mod that would help plant my existing power better?

Posted (edited)

With a 6 speed and heavy ass 24's, you for sure want gears.

 

Even if you don't make absurd power, I can bet you will get wheel hop. I can make my truck wheel hop pretty easy with a 5.3 and 3.42 gearing. If you have 3.42's now I would suggest 4.10's. It'll only increase the cruising rpm a few hundred. Instead of 1,600-1,700 at 65-70mph it'll be closer to 1,900-2,000. I didn't use the online calculator for that, it's just what I sorta remember.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted

Those are some heavy tires. If you are geared currently 3.23 running in 5th gear will spin like 4.10 gears on the highway. If you have 3.42's then 5th is like a 4.30. And if you have a 3.08 then like a 3.90 gear. Your tires are taller than stock so not exact but within like 50 rpm. If you can live with that a gear change will be good. Thing is I would not expect the G80 to last long. The are several lockers that can be used. 

 

Traction bar, yes. Now that done a driveshaft upgrade. Then a looser converter with a trans cooler. Of course this sort of kills it for towing. Circle D or PATC are good choices. 

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