Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hey all, 

 

anybody know what mods I can do to help with the efficiency of my power? (For eg, lighter pulleys etc) I don’t know what’s hot and what’s not here. I’ve basic engine mods and don’t want to spend $$$ on getting more personality out of the truck. I’ve heard gears are a good start. I’m rwd btw

Posted

Nobody has ever changed pulleys and gained anything.

 

Rear end gears depends on what you have now and what you are willing to give up. If you went down to 3.08's that would make it slower but also lower the rpm on the freeway, which could improve mileage. Or you could go up in gears to 3.73's or 3.90's to improve performance and also maybe help with mileage depending on where you live. Maybe it won't down shift as much and cause more fuel usage.

 

Get light weight wheels and tires. Anything heavier than stock is hurting mileage, big lifted trucks will notice that more. Drive slower overall, if the speed limit is 70mph, do 65 instead.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I think I may not have explained myself well enough. I’d like to plant the power to the tires more efficiently. I’m not too concerned about gass

Posted

I think I may not have explained myself well enough. I’d like to plant the power to the tires more efficiently. I’m not too concerned about gass

Posted (edited)

Gears and traction bars if you have wheel hop issues and need more traction.

 

4.10's or 4.56's with a tune will run like hell in a light weight truck. A lowered RWD truck is going to need traction bars from somebody like cal-tracs. You'll get wheel hop/axle wrap like crazy if you don't have something like that.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted

I don’t have many mods. I doubt I’ll hop lol as cool as that would be!😁. I’ll only have intake/l86 tb& mani, muffler delete and a tune 

Posted

Gears = worthless for anybody that has normal sized tires, has 4wd, and 8 or 10 speed.

 

for the amount of money and labor it cost to change the gears in the front and rear diffs for negligible results, you’d be way better off just putting that money into making more power.

 

This equation becomes even more true with more transmission speeds.

 

There are two torque multipliers, your transmission and your axle ratio. All that matters is how many times the motor spins to how many times the tires spin. When you have 10 f-ing speeds in your trans, it can create nearly whatever freaking ratio it wants to at any time. Changing just the rear end ratio does jack ****** unless you have monster tires and you just want to take some mechanical stress off the drivetrain components between the diff and the transmission.

Posted

I have a six speed, rwd. I have 24’s on 305/35’s. Not sure how big the diameter is. Is it still a waste of money? I don’t have sc or turbo money atm. Or is there anything else that you’d suggest that would give more life or personality to it? I do city/hi way driving and don’t tow. I’d like as much acceleration as possible keeping in mind that I don’t want to be doing 5500 rpm at 130kms/hr. Is there a specific gear for this? Or another type of mod that would help plant my existing power better?

Posted (edited)

With a 6 speed and heavy ass 24's, you for sure want gears.

 

Even if you don't make absurd power, I can bet you will get wheel hop. I can make my truck wheel hop pretty easy with a 5.3 and 3.42 gearing. If you have 3.42's now I would suggest 4.10's. It'll only increase the cruising rpm a few hundred. Instead of 1,600-1,700 at 65-70mph it'll be closer to 1,900-2,000. I didn't use the online calculator for that, it's just what I sorta remember.

Edited by CamGTP
Posted

Those are some heavy tires. If you are geared currently 3.23 running in 5th gear will spin like 4.10 gears on the highway. If you have 3.42's then 5th is like a 4.30. And if you have a 3.08 then like a 3.90 gear. Your tires are taller than stock so not exact but within like 50 rpm. If you can live with that a gear change will be good. Thing is I would not expect the G80 to last long. The are several lockers that can be used. 

 

Traction bar, yes. Now that done a driveshaft upgrade. Then a looser converter with a trans cooler. Of course this sort of kills it for towing. Circle D or PATC are good choices. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,837
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    bellssn690
    Newest Member
    bellssn690
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 524 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Interesting, I suspect I would have fueled up in Lee Vining as the day prior I would have filled up either in Laughlin or near there and maybe again before I entered Death Valley and once out the other side late that evening as I kept on driving into the night up near Lee Vining. Next morning I most likely fueled up in LV before heading over Tioga Pass into ( as I refer to it as "Yose .... Mite" 😁 ). And again that was 19 years ago but the price then must not have jumped out at me like the 5 bill a gallon theme of nutty cult hippy country Big Sir or head so far up their rear Aspen. I'd be curious to know where the highest prices are in the lower 48, I probably would not be far off to guess somewhere in Cali forn ie. Coldfoot and Prudhoe bay may have those prices beat but that is a whole other world up there and when prices are more normal elsewhere that is about what they can be up there I believe in no mans land. Anyway interesting that the 395 corridor is hosing people and the thing is, its tourist season and its not like there are a lot of competition options when driving up that highway from what I could see. Yup, big ole Boaterhomes and various other RV's ahead and behind me at the Yosemite entrance gate and they have to get their fuel somewhere.  
    • Those can be high, as well as the big California cities. The ones that will pop your eyes out are the 395 corridor on the Eastern side of the Sierra Nevadas. Lee Vining, $7.19 for regular and $8.89 for diesel is what the Google said right now.
    • Correct.  2019-2021 model years are serviced by a different p/n.  19420611.  Recall 2021s use 19420611.   The recall engines 2022-2024 model years are serviced with 12740076.     The difference between 19420611 and 12740076 is GM changed injector size for 2022.  The injectors are smaller on 12740076 with smaller injector bores in the cylinder heads to match the smaller injectors.  So you can't install a 19420611 in a 2022-2024, and you can't install a 12740076 in a 2019-2021.     Both engines are the replacement engine p/ns that are in the L87 recall.  So both of these are the updated engines.     Here's a version of the L87 recall with the p/ns for all the parts needed.    RCRIT-25V274-7075.pdf   Note it shows 19420611 and 12740076 with an asterisk to a footnote "Use the VIN and the GM Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) to determine which part to order if two or more part numbers are listed for the same part, as it may vary by vehicle options."    
    • Looking for advice from this group. Took my flawless 2020 6.2 TB to an unnamed shop for routine rear brakes and oil change. Tech forgot to put oil back in after the full service and needles to say, destroyed my engine.  It’s all on their shop video so they are responsible.   I had my Chevy dealer do the analysis and they confirmed its compromised and said engine replacement. The manager said they only get GM reman engines from GM with full 3 yr warranty and the one they would put in is not same as what’s they are swapping out on 21-25 for recall.    I am looking for advice why that would be a different engine because obviously I had the good 6.2 year and replacing it has my concerns with that recall for 21-15   Also what’s the pros and cons of accepting the engine swap vs telling the shop that bricked the truck to pay up so I buy a new truck. I’m concerned about stigma resale eventually if I just decide to get rid of it after the swap or other issues showing up after the swap out.  
    • Just looked up my records.  I've never gone over 5000 miles between oil changes.  At 46K miles, I have 10 oil changes.  I hope that will help.  I also installed the disabler last year.  I've still had a few times when it didn't seem to engage (which I can tell because the start stop feature kicks in), but for the most part, I think it's working.  For some reason, GM did not include the number of cylinders running in the information screen like I had on other models.  In my Cadillac, it shows me when it's running on 4 cylinders on the fuel milage screen.  I can't find that on my '21 Denali.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...