Jump to content

AT4 Front Valance

reno360
 Share

Recommended Posts

reno360 Enthusiast

reno360

Posted
Posted

I have a 2021 AT4 that I have had for about 5 months and just noticed that there seems to be a piece missing on the front valance.  There are a dozen or so push rivet holes that are empty and the existing piece is warping and hanging down badly.  I compared it to my buddies Denali and he has another small air dam type valance under this plastic piece that I don't have.  Was this left off by design on the AT4? or is it just mine?  Sorry for the bad pic but this might help...

IMG_3870.jpg

blckblt Enthusiast

blckblt

Posted
Posted

AT4 and the Trailboss don't have the front air damn.  Improves ground clearance and approach angle for what GM considers to be their off road 1/2 ton truck. 

 

You can probably add it.  It might improve your MPG a little if you do.

Monkey Enthusiast

Monkey

Posted
Posted

My '20 AT4 did come with the lower valance stabilizer (that you are missing).  I took it off to gain better clearance as @blckbltsaid BUT i would caution you without that lower valance stabilizer (as I call it) the plastic will rip if you get off road and drag it backwards on something...  If you end up ripping the lower valance changing it is a major PITA as some of the bolts that hold it on are on top of the frame horns and near impossible to get to (ask me how I know :-))  If it happens again I am just going to put an Addictive Desert Design bumper on and be done with it

Condor17 New Member

Condor17

Posted
Posted

My '21 AT4 has the same "warped" and hangs down ever so slightly. So does my coworkers. Going to find some extra push clips and strap it up.

SVG Enthusiast

SVG

Posted
Posted

Mine has the same "warped & hanging" condition. I'm going to replace the bumper anyway so I decided to not worry about it. Shouldn't look like that on a new vehicle though.

  • 1 month later...
  • 7 months later...
Zeeeya New Member

Zeeeya

Posted
Posted

Same thing here. 2021 hanging down in the middle. Thinking about taking some small black tie wraps and pulling up the center to try and take the droop out🤔

Dirtbiker Enthusiast

Dirtbiker

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Zeeeya said:

Same thing here. 2021 hanging down in the middle. Thinking about taking some small black tie wraps and pulling up the center to try and take the droop out🤔

That is what I did. Drilled two holes in the skid plate above the valence and ziptied it up. Now it is just a tiny little dip right in the middle instead of the large one. 

  • 4 months later...
LGJ1984 Enthusiast

LGJ1984

Posted
Posted

just ordered one from the dealership off a 2020. fits perfect and fixes that sag in the middle. You will also need 2 bolts, one at each end under the front fenders. Took 10 minutes to install and you only lose about an inch of ground clearance. 

EAG1985 New Member

EAG1985

Posted
Posted
On 6/10/2022 at 12:30 AM, LGJ1984 said:

just ordered one from the dealership off a 2020. fits perfect and fixes that sag in the middle. You will also need 2 bolts, one at each end under the front fenders. Took 10 minutes to install and you only lose about an inch of ground clearance. 

 

Will you share the part number?

 

Did this replace the 2021 air dam or was it an add on to the current air dam?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No1UKnow
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By No1UKnow · Posted

      Well, I received a message from the dealer...
    • Atomicgrl
      ‘25 Silverado purchase- back to dealership for bumper/radio issue

      By Atomicgrl · Posted

      The no sound problem is the audio amplifier. The audio amp has a heatsoak issue in some circuitry which causes it to miss the wakeup handhake. If it doesn't respond within a certain time parameter, then you get no sound. I brought it in and had the software update, but after further testing the tech made the call for a new audio amplifer. The software update I belive gives more time for the amp to respond, but if the amp is defective then you can still get no audio at times. After the update it went 12 days before no sound. After doing some research, apparently the fix is a new (updated) audio amplifer, the circuitry internally has been improved to better deal with heat. I had to wait 2 1/2 weeks because at the time, it was on backorder with no eta. Well the amp came in earlier this week. I had the amp and programming work done today. After picking it up I stopped at a few places, and whenever I started my truck, the audio was on instantly, so whatever they did it appears to work because it's never had sound that quickly......Hope this helps
    • Jus Cruisin
      Rear Crew Cab Door Wont Open

      By Jus Cruisin · Posted

      Make sure the latch mechanism is properly greased. Look at the catch for fresh marks/scratches. And see if it has moved a little, too. 
    • PBNB
      Thoughts on these wheels?

      By PBNB · Posted

      I have the 18" black mutilspoke wheels that came with my truck. I like them as they are very subdued and look good with the 295/70's    I am sure that the next set of wheels I get will be some after market all black wheels. Or maybe some AT4X wheels.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Interesting question which you partly answered in the word 'potentially'. I think that is going to be a 'point of reference' inquiry. What are the touchstones?    This will sound petty but it is the main source of end fighting in threads on this topic. Define a motors "Life". Think about the various arguments that have been entertained on these pages in that very argument.    I can only speak from my viewpoint. Engine "Life" in my world is defined by power cylinder integrity. For the majority of engines it is the bore/ring interface that quits first. Loss of seal. Oil consumption and loss of power. Most Pro motor builders would agree and there is a good deal of information on using "Leak Down" as a primary indicator of bore integrity. At home a compression test is more the thing. If we can agree on that then I think CC Jensen has done its homework and I'd find it valid.    Now by my own definition, Dizzy, wife's Ecotec 2.4 I-4 has been dead since about 80K miles. And yet we have logged over 200K miles more on it. "Life" and "Usefulness" are therefore independent.      I know a mature fella right now who has just hit 300K on a Mitsubishi 3A92 NA MPFI motor and has done compression test every 100K. It was 205 psi after break in and is now about 195 and still even. He uses shelf oil but good filters and adheres to a 3K mile OCI. He even do UOA's on each of them for the first 50K.      I also know a fleet mechanic with that same motor that gets 300 to 500 K out of them but the are oil using, wristpin sloppy, skirt slapping motors. He ran one with a piston pin so loose the piston was bouncing off the cylinder head for about 20K miles before he called TOD. Both of them claim success.         

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...