Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anyone installed a GM Performance intake on a 2021 6.2?  The parts listing 84854457 states Unlike 2020 and earlier versions, these intakes are currently unavailable for installation on vehicles that did not have the performance intake ordered from the factory. They receive the calibration for the intake while on the assembly line and this cannot currently be programmed by a dealer service department.

 

I am curious if turning off the filter minder and disconnecting the battery for 3hrs similar to the S&B would be the ticket?  

Posted
24 minutes ago, AllTerrain13 said:

Has anyone installed a GM Performance intake on a 2021 6.2?  The parts listing 84854457 states Unlike 2020 and earlier versions, these intakes are currently unavailable for installation on vehicles that did not have the performance intake ordered from the factory. They receive the calibration for the intake while on the assembly line and this cannot currently be programmed by a dealer service department.

 

I am curious if turning off the filter minder and disconnecting the battery for 3hrs similar to the S&B would be the ticket?  

I have the GM Performance intake on my 2020 5.3L.  The ECM update that comes as part of the intake accounts for the repositioned MAF sensor and the altered airflow dynamics.  Turning off the filter minder, which you're suppose to do anyway when installing this intake, and disconnecting the battery will not mimic what the update is intended to do.  There are several threads on this site that talk about this modification.  I recommend reading the first post by Zane on this sub-forum as he talks about his install of both the performance intake and exhaust.  There's also an informative article on TruckTrends.com about the intake.  Bottom-line - for GM's performance intake you need the ECM update, otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the intake, and may encounter some other challenges such as the CEL lighting up and decreased mpg as has been reported by others.  Finally, while the intake itself probably only adds a horsepower or two, which is negligible for such a heavy vehicle, I noticed some additional pep in my truck, which I attribute more to the ECM update/tune rather than to the increased airflow provided by the larger surface area of the performance intake filter.  Yes, the seat-of-my-pants is calibrated...

Posted
1 minute ago, Anacortes Army Guy said:

I have the GM Performance intake on my 2020 5.3L.  The ECM update that comes as part of the intake accounts for the repositioned MAF sensor and the altered airflow dynamics.  Turning off the filter minder, which you're suppose to do anyway when installing this intake, and disconnecting the battery will not mimic what the update is intended to do.  There are several threads on this site that talk about this modification.  I recommend reading the first post by Zane on this sub-forum as he talks about his install of both the performance intake and exhaust.  There's also an informative article on TruckTrends.com about the intake.  Bottom-line - for GM's performance intake you need the ECM update, otherwise you will not get the full benefit of the intake, and may encounter some other challenges such as the CEL lighting up and decreased mpg as has been reported by others.  Finally, while the intake itself probably only adds a horsepower or two, which is negligible for such a heavy vehicle, I noticed some additional pep in my truck, which I attribute more to the ECM update/tune rather than to the increased airflow provided by the larger surface area of the performance intake filter.  Yes, the seat-of-my-pants is calibrated...

Thanks,  I saw the post by "Zane" and it does not mention 2021 MY.  My specific question is regarding 2021 and if anyone has installed it.  

Posted (edited)

I do not believe the GM Performance intake is any different from 2019 to 2021 model years in terms of hardware, however, what is different is how GM has changed their availability.  If I wanted to add it now on my 2020 it would be too late as it's no longer available as an accessory, for whatever reason.  Maybe too many people were buying it, then not having it installed by the dealer, and then not having the update performed if they chose to install it themselves, and it was causing headaches for the dealerships to correct, but I'm just guessing.

Edited by Anacortes Army Guy
Posted

Would this be the same for any brand CAI?? I have a 2021 6.2 litre with the "rotofab CAI".....excellent quality. Will this throw codes or need a "update performed"??

Rotofab said no, but anyone have first hand experience??

 

Allterain13....you might want to check out the Rotofab CAI......they make one for a 5.3 litre and 6.2 litre for 2021 gmc, chevy......excellent quality and  they told me they built it to gm specs.  I haven't thrown any codes yet, its been on for one month. I did what the instructions said and disconnected negative battery terminal while installing and left it off for 2 hours.

Posted

I have had a Rotofab CAI on for about 2 weeks and no issues with throwing codes or decreased mileage. Had one for about 18 months on my 19 Denali I traded off without issues either. They make a quality product.

Posted

The big difference with the GM CAI is they were going after CARB certification for compliance and haven't gotten it yet for their 2021 models. You can order a new one with the GM CAI included and its fine so this is only an issue for adding on later, at least for now. This is also why it is available for 2019 and 2020 as they did get the CARB cert for those years. 

 

Just about any plug and play CAI will work just fine but you will notice a call out now on almost any site/brand that says not CARB compliant where a state requires it. In CA, smog is only needed after 6 years on a new vehicle and I'd bet half don't keep their trucks that long anyway nor have I heard or seen anyone ever complain about failing smog for a CAI being installed. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,945
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    thefultonhow
    Newest Member
    thefultonhow
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 0 Anonymous, 682 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...