Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
11 hours ago, whistleblower said:

 

 

In full disclosure, I'm looking at a 2020 Yukon XL.  I posted in this forum as it appears to be much more active than the Yukon / Suburban forum and I was hoping to get a handful of responses from owners with 2013-2016ish trucks who might give me a sprinkle of hope that this suspension isn't just expensive trash. 

An important fact omitted from 1st post......

  • Like 2
Posted

Replaced both rear shocks on our 16 LTZ Tahoe at 60000 miles, have not touched the front ones yet with over 85000 miles.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I know that my fronts were replace at 56K last January on my '16 because I did them.  The rears are original best I can tell and currently at 60300 mi.

Edited by jrabenaldt
  • 6 months later...
Posted

I just bought a 2015 sierra denali and unknown to me it has different shocks from the magneride. Seems like basic model shocks and causes my suspension light to come on. I would like to know if you ever found out about these as I am about to replace them and wanted to know if I should go rancho, fox, or get the factory magneride put back on. I don't wanna waste money on so etching for 50k miles I wanna put that much money to a quality product.

Posted
On 1/13/2022 at 8:14 AM, 2015sierradenali said:

I just bought a 2015 sierra denali and unknown to me it has different shocks from the magneride. Seems like basic model shocks and causes my suspension light to come on. I would like to know if you ever found out about these as I am about to replace them and wanted to know if I should go rancho, fox, or get the factory magneride put back on. I don't wanna waste money on so etching for 50k miles I wanna put that much money to a quality product.

There are magneride bypass kits if you want to run regular shocks with no diagnostic lights on. Check out Xineering

Bypass kit is like 300 bucks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.6k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,993
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    President Roberto
    Newest Member
    President Roberto
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 263 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I don't wanna do major surgery/upgrades, behind-the-dash work, add amps, change radio etc. on my '26 std cab WT. On the WT, it has the base 7" IOR infotainment setup, and only two speakers (doors). Since I listen to classical, looked around for speakers that do well and dug thru reviews. Two-way speakers were found to be better than 3-way. So I've ordered a pair of  Infinity Reference REF-9632IX 2 way speakers.  [These may  or may not have been discontinued / succeeded by the 3-way ...9633 ones.]    These speakers are lauded for 3 ohm and 94db sensitivity spec so they'll work well for ordinary base car radios without amps and offer better performance (quality,  strength) than  default base paper-cone speakers. They'll be installed in a few days and I'll let y'all know what I think. Bill W San Jose      
    • Thanks!   Changed out the rear shocks today to Bilstein 5100s.  So far feel much better. The stock Rancho were wore out.  Lots of heavy hauling (2 moves, home renovations, etc).  Next up is new BFG tires Monday.  Cant wait the current tires have little to no wet traction and are super loud (hum)    
    • Ok, I got the all the codes. What do you all think would be a place to start?
    • How about I just point to the factory pans stand pipe little drain plug and claim its a pan with a real drain plug !. I just couldn't swallow the fact that a Dorman pan which at this point is probably the only pan out there that fits the gas version truck cost that much up here in Canada so I decided initially anyway to skip it and see what I thought of pulling the pan method and down the road if I felt inclined enough then I would either install a drain plug kit in the factory pan if there is enough room for it, or have a bung welded onto it, or put an aftermarket pan on. The thing is if the pan is not pulled then the magnets in the pan can't be inspected and cleaned or if wanting to change out the filter. However of course it certainly would make the job easier to be able to drop the oil first before having to handle the pan if dropping the pan that go around was the goal.    I knew a guy locally that was doing custom field spraying years ago with a pickup pulling a ground driven sprayer, I believe it was a GM pickup with an automatic trans. He had a drain plug in his pan and would drop the oil out of it once a week and top it back up through the dipstick tube to keep refreshing a portion of the oil often and that made the transmission last far longer than had he done nothing. Soft fields pulling 500 gallons of water at the start of each mixed up sprayer tank batch and in low range sucking along. I imagine he got some tips from other custom sprayer outfits doing the same thing at the time and learning from their blown up tranny mistakes. Transmissions then had no lock up converter so would cook the crap out of the fluid slipping that much and it would not have been synthetic fluid either. 
    • 3.39 Kroger’s in Montgomery Texas. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...