Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anybody have any advice on washing soaps etc, so I don't get water spots after I wash my truck?

I always have to dry it to prevent the spots. Thanks 

Posted

Don't wash your car in direct sunlight or when the body is hot from being in the sun. Never wax your car in the sun or when hot from the sun either. Dry the body with a Chami (that's how it's pronounced, prolly not the right spelling) cloth, really a piece of synthetic leather that really sucks up the water. Wax it when it's cool and dry. Barkeeper's fiend can remove water spots on the glass.

  • Like 1
Posted

You will always have to dry to prevent water spots there is basically nothing you can do to stop that.

 

Now what you could do though is get some of that waterless wash and spray it on the water spots afterwards. It will take them out and you'll be alright.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks alot, I do Chami it after I wash it, but takes so long..haha...I will try that waterless wash though thnk you

Posted

Yeah I agree. 

 

Invest in a California Water Blade. Pretty worth it for the hood and some of the other panels. Waterless wash is the only thing that is going to save you from waterspots though. 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Clean truck super duper clean and wax with 303 sealant.. it helps a lot. I water blade and blow with a 36V Makita blower

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
Posted (edited)

eBay or Amazon.. remember this is the sealant and not the detail spray

Edited by edktm
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...