Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Whatup guys, thought I'd share my work in progress and ask for some advice:

 

-2019 Sierra 1500 AT4 6.2l-

Bds 4" lift 
Fox 2.5 DSC front - Fox 2.0 rear
ADD Stealth Fighter Fr. Bumper
Baja Designs ONX6ARC 
Borla ATAK Exhaust
Method MR701 17X9 
BFG Ko2 315/70-r17

 

Pretty happy with the front suspension but the rear really needs some help. Too much bouncing and bucking in washboard chatter and whoops. Planning on adding a Fox 2.5 DSC and a Deaver Spring pack to eliminate the rear 4" blocks. Hoping to take away some harshness and add some travel.

 

Any advice is appreciated, I want to do this right. Thanks!

20211011_173601.jpg

20210916_181208.jpg

20210808_195404.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice looking truck. Curious how the new leaf springs will work versus stock. If they are softer and more compliant, then you might give up some payload. That’s always the balance or give and take. I’m looking at some adjustable Rancho shocks for the back, their 9000 series. They are a twin tube design like the factory from what I gather so I can dial them in for when without payload and crank them up when I haul or tow. Twin tube versus mono tube is an interesting comparison and worth looking into if you haven’t already.

Posted

Comparing those Fox shocks he's getting to Rancho 9000's is like comparing a kite to a jet fighter.

 

Yeah they both fly in the sky but are they all that similar?

Posted
3 hours ago, AJMBLAZER said:

Comparing those Fox shocks he's getting to Rancho 9000's is like comparing a kite to a jet fighter.

 

Yeah they both fly in the sky but are they all that similar?

I think that the Fox shocks are mono tube and the 9000 are twin tube. The mono shock typically has a higher gas pressure than a twin tube, so they are usually stiffer. So my point is that they are different and could be expected to ride differently. The OP mentioned bouncing and bucking, so that could be due to the stiffness of the rear shocks, especially if running empty. My suggestion was to consider a different type of shock like a twin tube that by design, will function differently. Different leaf springs impact the ride as well, so another variable. Hard to know what the ideal setup might be without some trial and error.

Posted

Literally no well built offroad truck for fun, work, or racing runs anything but monotubes.  Same for anything road performance oriented. 
 

He’s on the right path. 

Posted (edited)

Stick with the monotube.  Adding weight to the bed of the truck will help settle it down significantly until you can get your new suspension installed.  Until then, an ice chest loaded down with water, coke, etc. is always nice to have and the additional weight over the rear axle will settle it down nicely :)

Edited by Gangly
Posted (edited)

Thanks for all the replies! After speaking with Accutune, DirtKing and Fox it sounds like the best shock option I have right now is the Rough Country Vertex which accommodates 5-7.5" lifts. They are adjustable mono tubes with remote reservoirs and have pretty good reviews, but I worry about long term quality and durability.

 

Unfortunately, Fox and King only accommodate up to 4" lifts otherwise I'd go with one of them.

 

I did order a custom set of Deaver leaf springs today, it sounds like they'll make a big difference. I'm not worried about losing a little payload since I don't haul anything heavier than a couple dirtbikes.

Edited by AT4Play
Posted

Yeah I've looked at those, I wouldn't mind running timbrens or airbags as long as it doesn't affect the suspension when unloaded. I'm not too worried about it though.

Posted

For your uses I'd go Timbrens.

 

Airbags will likely get damaged if you plan on offroading it.  The Timbrens are basically just big bump stops.

Posted

Does BDS make a mid travel option? I thought it was just a lift kit which gained some droop. Would love to hear more on an actual mid-travel set up (additional up and down travel gains as well as track width increases), can't seem to find many around that start getting closer to Raptor in terms of wheel travel. 

 

Tyler

Posted

If you want Raptor performance start talking to some of the big names like Camburg.  Not much in the way of "lift kits" will touch that purpose made setup.

Posted

From what I understand, a mid travel set up is a suspension system that is stock width, but is focused on getting the best suspension performance and travel out of this configuration.  The BDS kit made sense for my needs, they have a killer warranty, maintain safe angles, come with some skid plates for vulnerable areas, and includes a solid UCA. 

 

While I cannot say how much travel I've gained in the front it definitely handles way better on and off road. I feel like if I can get the rear to keep up with the front this thing will be dialed.

 

Stock width is Important for my build because I live in Washington and our trails are crazy narrow. Any wider than I am now and I'll be stuck on the forest service roads. 

 

Now, if we're talking balls out prerunner dream build....

 

In order to get raptor wheel travel you'd need a long travel kit, (dirtking/bajakits) which will require oversize fiberglass front fenders and bedsides. You'll also need a bed cage so you can mpunt some bad ass triple bypasses in the back. Slap a procharger on it with a cam and long tube headers and it'll give the TRX and Raptor a run for their money.

 

Long travel beast for example:

 

image_db2716f7-efa1-44b0-864b-f5a5754b16fe_655x.jpg

image_19014307-92f2-477e-accd-266ed39ffb64_655x.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
13 hours ago, AT4Play said:

From what I understand, a mid travel set up is a suspension system that is stock width, but is focused on getting the best suspension performance and travel out of this configuration.  The BDS kit made sense for my needs, they have a killer warranty, maintain safe angles, come with some skid plates for vulnerable areas, and includes a solid UCA. 

 

While I cannot say how much travel I've gained in the front it definitely handles way better on and off road. I feel like if I can get the rear to keep up with the front this thing will be dialed.

 

Stock width is Important for my build because I live in Washington and our trails are crazy narrow. Any wider than I am now and I'll be stuck on the forest service roads. 

 

Now, if we're talking balls out prerunner dream build....

 

In order to get raptor wheel travel you'd need a long travel kit, (dirtking/bajakits) which will require oversize fiberglass front fenders and bedsides. You'll also need a bed cage so you can mpunt some bad ass triple bypasses in the back. Slap a procharger on it with a cam and long tube headers and it'll give the TRX and Raptor a run for their money.

 

Long travel beast for example:

 

image_db2716f7-efa1-44b0-864b-f5a5754b16fe_655x.jpg

image_19014307-92f2-477e-accd-266ed39ffb64_655x.jpg

I've looked into BajaKits.  You don't need fiberglass fenders unless you go to 37s and jump your truck.  It'll be fine with 35s.  They even state on their website you'd be fine with 37s if you don't jump your truck.  0ax Power's Jackal uses the BajaKits setup with King 3.0 shocks and Deaver leaf springs. 

Posted
10 hours ago, Transient said:

I've looked into BajaKits.  You don't need fiberglass fenders unless you go to 37s and jump your truck.  It'll be fine with 35s.  They even state on their website you'd be fine with 37s if you don't jump your truck.  0ax Power's Jackal uses the BajaKits setup with King 3.0 shocks and Deaver leaf springs. 

 

Let's be honest though, who wants to spend all that money on a long travel kit with 37s and NOT jump it. Lol

 

The Sierras would need some fender trimming to clear for sure. Damn square wheel wells. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 369 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...