Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So, my state requires you carry chains in winter in on Mountain passes.  The manual says nope for this tire size, but I can find nothing thst would not clear a class s chain or even truck chains on thr rear.  It has more clearance than most vehicles. Has anyone done it or seen an actual problem?  Due to the weight I don't think "socks" are allowed BTW.

Posted
4 hours ago, MikeMikeMike said:

So, my state requires you carry chains in winter in on Mountain passes.  The manual says nope for this tire size, but I can find nothing thst would not clear a class s chain or even truck chains on thr rear.  It has more clearance than most vehicles. Has anyone done it or seen an actual problem?  Due to the weight I don't think "socks" are allowed BTW.

Are you referring to the signs posted on WA mountain passes that state something like this:  "Vehicles over 10,000 GVWR must carry chains at all times"?  This sign is directed at large cargo trucks... think semi-tractor/trailers.  Furthermore if you have 4WD and M&S rated tires you never have to use chains.  I suggest you search the WA DOT website for official information and regulations. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I have no idea about the details of the Washington regulation, but the truck is likely over 10,000 GVWR

 

(unless it has the 'lowered GVWR' option)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Nwstver,  I have seen WSP talk to every driver and check chains even in 4wd.

 

WAC 204-24-050 (A)Exception for all wheel drive vehicles. When "chains required" signs are posted, all-wheel drive vehicles will be exempt from the chain requirement when all wheels are in gear and are equipped with approved traction devices as specified in WAC  204-24-040 provided that tire chains for at least one set of drive tires are carried in the vehicle.

 

Posted
15 hours ago, MikeMikeMike said:

Nwstver,  I have seen WSP talk to every driver and check chains even in 4wd.

 

WAC 204-24-050 (A)Exception for all wheel drive vehicles. When "chains required" signs are posted, all-wheel drive vehicles will be exempt from the chain requirement when all wheels are in gear and are equipped with approved traction devices as specified in WAC  204-24-040 provided that tire chains for at least one set of drive tires are carried in the vehicle.

 

Mike-cubed,

Good search and information.  Get a cheap set of chains with packaging that indicates they fit your rear tire size and you're golden.  I recall that Les Schwab Tires in the past will buy back unused chains for your original purchase price at the end of snow season.  Or if you believe you will actually need to use chains such as for a freezing rain/ice storm event,  see if cable chains are available.  It seems likely (to me at anyrate) that cable chains will fit rear wheels without interference. Let us know how you decide to go. 

Posted

if you do need chains. Do some research or call one of the retailers. HD trucks and especially the new powerful diesels will destroy normal truck chains and likely your truck. The right chains are a lot cheaper than a fender, ripping off brake lines, etc

 

Posted

Mike-cubed -- A google search turned up Tirechain.com.   Lots of good information and a very wide range of products.  Prices seem high but OTOH  I haven't bought tire chains in several decades with the advent of AWD.  I did note they sell cable chains for LT tires. 

As for the caution above that new diesels will destroy "normal truck" chains, I suppose so if one is stupid enough to apply excessive accelerator inputs.  

  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, NWStever said:

Mike-cubed -- A google search turned up Tirechain.com.   Lots of good information and a very wide range of products.  Prices seem high but OTOH  I haven't bought tire chains in several decades with the advent of AWD.  I did note they sell cable chains for LT tires. 

As for the caution above that new diesels will destroy "normal truck" chains, I suppose so if one is stupid enough to apply excessive accelerator inputs.  

“I suppose if one is stupid” the most powerful GM 1500 motor has 460ft.-lbs vs the L5P at 910ft.-lbs @ 1600rpms. I guess you idle everywhere during winter weather? Limiting the use of your truck by buying light truck tire chains is also a great idea. Just stay off the skinny pedal. 😂😂😂

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I like the idea.  I would pick diesel if I had a choice. I need pictures though.
    • I've installed cheap eBay new aftermarket digitizers before.  They work.  Did a bunch of Cadillac CUE (aka Cadillac's MyLink) for someone years ago.  They all worked fine after the repair.    That number 22740886, that is a component part # for GM.  You can use it to search, but its not something that's obtainable at the dealer level.     So pretty much any of these will work - 2015 Colorado Digitizer for sale | eBay
    • Black bumper and the later years Z-71 style color matched grille.
    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...