Jump to content

rear engine seal cost

Jworks
 Share

Recommended Posts

Jworks Enthusiast

Jworks

Posted
Posted (edited)

I've got an oil leak on 2011 Sierra 4x4, 6 speed trans, 5.3 engine, and I was told I needed a rear engine seal.  Labor will be $575 (plus parts).  Yikes.  Does this sound in line?

Edited by Jworks
shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted

Yes that sounds about right. Although you can do it for free if you do it yourself. I just did mine lol

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)

Yep.  $115/hr at my local Chevy dealer, 5.6hrs of labor in the book.  So just your labor is a bit less than $644 using the $115/hr.  

 

If its the rear main, figure about $30 for that, plus exhaust gaskets and the transfer case to transmission gasket if its 4x4.  The flywheel bolts are typically one time use as well.  

Edited by newdude
Jworks Enthusiast

Jworks

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Thank you fellows.  I didn't know the cost.  I figured it would be much higher at a dealership (which it probably would be some, but maybe not by miles....who knows.  I have it at a local trans shop and they will be putting it in.  I don't have the ability to put it in myself.  I would think at a dealership this would be $650 labor, or more.  And then parts would be regular GM parts.  The trans shop is using NAPA parts which I don't have a problem with.  I'm just guessing here, but I would imagine the dealership cost would be $400-500  more than the shop I'm using.

 

 

Edited by Jworks
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
On 11/30/2021 at 9:29 AM, Jworks said:

Thank you fellows.  I didn't know the cost.  I figured it would be much higher at a dealership (which it probably would be some, but maybe not by miles....who knows.  I have it at a local trans shop and they will be putting it in.  I don't have the ability to put it in myself.  I would think at a dealership this would be $650 labor, or more.  And then parts would be regular GM parts.  The trans shop is using NAPA parts which I don't have a problem with.  I'm just guessing here, but I would imagine the dealership cost would be $400-500  more than the shop I'm using.

 

 

Dealer would likely be happy to quote if you want comparables

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
On 11/29/2021 at 7:59 PM, shakenfake said:

What exhaust gaskets?

Flexplate bolts are not one time use

 

 

Many times they are, that's the only reason I mentioned it.  Service manual does allow for reusing so long as new loctite is installed on the threads.  They are a 3 pass fastener still so if it were my truck, it would get new bolts.

  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a first pass in sequence to 20 Y (15 lb ft).
  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a second pass in sequence to 50 Y (37 lb ft).
  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a final pass in sequence to 100 Y (74 lb ft).

 

As for the exhaust, the y pipe has to come down to remove the trans.  There are two seals at the y pipe to manifold connections, one big donut style on the right side, a metal ring style on the left that are 1 time use.  Also, I'd get the clamp at the rear of the y pipe as that would get cut off if it was a 10 year old rust state truck for sure.  

  • Like 1
shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted
On 12/4/2021 at 7:44 AM, newdude said:

 

 

Many times they are, that's the only reason I mentioned it.  Service manual does allow for reusing so long as new loctite is installed on the threads.  They are a 3 pass fastener still so if it were my truck, it would get new bolts.

  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a first pass in sequence to 20 Y (15 lb ft).
  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a second pass in sequence to 50 Y (37 lb ft).
  • Tighten the bolts (1–6) a final pass in sequence to 100 Y (74 lb ft).

 

As for the exhaust, the y pipe has to come down to remove the trans.  There are two seals at the y pipe to manifold connections, one big donut style on the right side, a metal ring style on the left that are 1 time use.  Also, I'd get the clamp at the rear of the y pipe as that would get cut off if it was a 10 year old rust state truck for sure.  

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

  • Like 1
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, shakenfake said:

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

 

 

Well I guess GM's own service manual is just telling lies then...

 

dffd.thumb.png.a57103d7c6f3dad825fb55cf64e612e8.png

 

cxfvsd.thumb.png.0ef1ec60f099ca1f24ba69f5d01ff28d.png

shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted

I never knew the metal gasket needed replacement I am guessing that the tightening down of the metal causes it to change shape. I figured if there was a gasket on the other side it would need it but I've never replaced them before. Good to know 👍

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, shakenfake said:

Three pass fasteners do not mean you need new ones. It is when you torque to yield with a degree you have to get new ones.

If that was the case then ARP head bolts, which are three pass bolts, would be useless since you couldn't reuse them.

 

You don't need to remove the y-pipe for the trans, you aren't pulling the trans out you just need to push it back a little bit.

The donut style ring, I think is on the drive side, that is not one time use. The passenger side does not have a gasket that I know of, never used one either.

newdude knows what he is talking about, he works at a GM dealership.

shakenfake Senior Enthusiast

shakenfake

Posted
Posted

I believe him but you don't need to pull the trans all the way out for the rear main which means you don't need to pull the y-pipe. Nor do you need to get new fasteners just because they require a three pass torque pattern.

 

The donut gasket I never knew to be a one time use though. I've always just reused the old one and I don't think I've put one back on so I'll keep those in mind

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,791
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    d.lowrey
    Newest Member
    d.lowrey
    Joined

  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 4,651 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      J&L OIL SEPARATOR CO

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Just did an injector/HPFP replacement on Pepper at 192,400 miles; close enough to 200K, RIGHT? (If 200K is considered life end and to me it isn't). But hey, to each his own.    Have never run a catch can on this vehicle. Back side of every valve looked like a new valve spray painted semigloss black. Port walls looked 'neat' (all a normal result of passive EGR via VVT) Zero build up even in AFM cylinders. Just color. It uses no measurable oil and never has.    At 155,000 I put her on E-85 and a borescope of the cylinders at plug change showed very clean pistons and valve faces. The replaced injector tips looked new. (It was the pump piston seal that was leaking). Oh well, have six good backups.    Still gets 28 mpg on gas (highway average) and over 20 (highway) on alky. UOA's look good and runs as good now as it did when I bought it. Better in fact.    What improvement would a Catch Can provide this motor?     And given all this I expect that IF I installed one I'd see some water/gas/oil vapor accumulation. Byproducts of normal combustion.   Having said that, IF my motor used an appreciable amount of oil I'd consider it a useful 'crutch' until I had the situation corrected OR if bore polished, until I junked it or rebuilt it to stave off repeated plug fouling.    I'm not telling you what I THINK. But what its DONE.          
    • Grumpy Bear
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Love the look. I'm a SCSB lover myself.    Two items. 1.) A spacer changes scrub radius but this also changes when we use wheels of different offsets. A little isn't a big deal. 2.) Steel wheels, alloy wheels all have different thickness. Same effect on the stud and lug nut as a spacer. When hub centric the wheel isn't supported by the stud. It's supported by the hub. The stud just keeps it all together.  
    • JAI3
      2016 Sierra 5.3L L83 new injectors now runs rich.

      By JAI3 · Posted

      I had a evap sol go bad a couple weeks ago. . I replaced it.  While watching live data at the time I saw I had some cylinder 1 misfires. No MIL but on live data I could see ~50 at startup and about 70 more after an hour a drive all on cyl 1.  I also noticed that the LTFT were -5% to -15% always.  And that bank 2 is always -3% richer than bank 1. Even across all driving modes, city, highway, etc it’s always 3% richer than bank 1. So I start with the misfire. Swapped coil, plug, and plug wires from 1 to 3. No follow. I got an Injector reseal kit, pulled the D/s injector rail, swapped #1 and #3 injectors, resealed them, reinstalled and retested.  The misfire followed to 3. So I ordered and replaced all 8 injectors, spark plugs, and plug wires. Also replaced the 1 time use fuel pipes under the intake manifold.  Injectors that were in the truck since new were  Part # 12668390.  I replaced them with # 12742701 Got from RockAuto. Pretty certain they’re genuine and the correct ones. I called a friend at a parts store who told me “the 12742701 were the correct superseded part # for the originals I was replacing”. So started truck after replacing all that and it’s running -15 - -30 LTFTs. I reset the fuel trims with GDS2 and drove it for a 60 miles trip each way. There have been no changes in the LTFTs.  I checked if the HPFP was leaking into the crankcase. I removed the pvc and watched the trims. No difference.  I checked the alcohol content and it was at 10%  I’m out of ideas here. Truck seems to run great. Just always rich on the fuel trims.  Anyone with any help or ideas would be greatly appreciated.  I ran an injector balance test just for the heck of it and it came back this. I’m confused.  I have gds2 and some other diag tools if anyone knows of anything I should test next.
    • Coastie05
      Will not stay in Reverse

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Definitely needs to go back to the dealer. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      No, but don't skimp on safe! 😉 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...