Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Has anybody tried putting 305/45R22's on the factory 22's with stock suspension (non-TB/AT4)? I have a 21 RST 4x4 with the factory 22's and was wondering if I could squeeze the 305's on there without any  issues. 

Posted
14 minutes ago, Diamond817 said:

Has anybody tried putting 305/45R22's on the factory 22's with stock suspension (non-TB/AT4)? I have a 21 RST 4x4 with the factory 22's and was wondering if I could squeeze the 305's on there without any  issues. 22's

Factory 22's weren't an option with the RST. Did you purchase OEM 22's? They're 22x9 and a 305/45/22 has a 10" minimum rim width so they'll probably balloon out. Stay with the recommended 275/50/22 size. 

Posted
12 minutes ago, mafd2 said:

Factory 22's weren't an option with the RST. Did you purchase OEM 22's? They're 22x9 and a 305/45/22 has a 10" minimum rim width so they'll probably balloon out. Stay with the recommended 275/50/22 size. 

Yes they were an option. Mine came with Factory 22's.

 

 

 

IMG_20210131_120256467_HDR.jpg

Screenshot_20210122-183706.png

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Diamond817 said:

Yes they were an option. Mine came with Factory 22's.

 

 

 

IMG_20210131_120256467_HDR.jpg

Screenshot_20210122-183706.png

Yes, dealer installed. They were shipped with steel wheels. Why don't you go with the 275/50? Is that what you have now? You want wider? Or taller? 

Posted (edited)

305/45/22 will fit on 22x9" wheels, Ive been there, done that. Now if they will fit and not rub on the upper control arms on stock wheels on T1 trucks, I cannot say if it will work of not. I currently run that size tire on my 22x9.5" aftermarket wheels with a +26 offset

Edited by dram1983361
Posted
18 hours ago, Transient said:

It's a 32.8" tire, so it may clear the UCA height-wise.  The question I'd focus on is the width. 

The stock 22's are 32.8-33. Height is not a problem on these. The 9" wide rim itself can be used with tires up to 12.5" wide, it's done all the time. The 305's are 12" wide. That's what I'm trying to find out, if the 12" wide tire will clear the front components and fenders on the stock 22's with stock suspension.

Posted

What's the width of the stock 275/50/22 tires? Like 11", 11.5" maybe? Then compare it to 12" wide 305s, take half the difference between the two ( that added to each side of the stock tire) and see if you have that much room available on the inside if you were to go with the wider tire.

Basically turn your current wheels lock to lock and see if how much clearance you have on the inside near the upper control arms. This will give you a better idea if you have enough room. I can tell you with my setup I have no rubbing at all, but again I'm on 9.5" wide wheels with a +26  offset.

 

One thing to keep in mind, not all 305/45/22 are the same( some are wider than others, some run narrower than others), So be sure to check the specs on what ever tire you decide to run if you do change sizes.

Posted
1 hour ago, dram1983361 said:

What's the width of the stock 275/50/22 tires? Like 11", 11.5" maybe? Then compare it to 12" wide 305s, take half the difference between the two ( that added to each side of the stock tire) and see if you have that much room available on the inside if you were to go with the wider tire.

Basically turn your current wheels lock to lock and see if how much clearance you have on the inside near the upper control arms. This will give you a better idea if you have enough room. I can tell you with my setup I have no rubbing at all, but again I'm on 9.5" wide wheels with a +26  offset.

 

One thing to keep in mind, not all 305/45/22 are the same( some are wider than others, some run narrower than others), So be sure to check the specs on what ever tire you decide to run if you do change sizes.

Width on the stock 275/50's is 10.8". Clearance looks adequate for the 12" wide as per measurements, but I wanted some real world feedback on it. I am looking specifically at the new Hankook Dynapro AT2's in 305/45R22 because the 275/50R22 options are just so limited. 

Posted
On 12/18/2021 at 5:11 AM, Diamondd817 said:

The stock 22's are 32.8-33. Height is not a problem on these. The 9" wide rim itself can be used with tires up to 12.5" wide, it's done all the time. The 305's are 12" wide. That's what I'm trying to find out, if the 12" wide tire will clear the front components and fenders on the stock 22's with stock suspension.

I'm not talking about the width of the wheel.  I'm talking about the width in relation to the UCA.

Posted

And these are Hankooks Dynapros at2’s. I saw that u asked specifically about these. They won’t sound louder, and won’t kill ur mpg. Decent tires for the price…. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,914
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    AidenVorpagel
    Newest Member
    AidenVorpagel
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,213 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 286,740 Mile Services   8/6/2026   New AC Compressor. Refrigerant oil and dye, evacuate and charge system.  New exhaust system from cat back.  New Iridium plugs plus replace #3 coil Repair/rewire headlamp wiring (passenger side) and replace all forward bulbs. Polish lenses of both assemblies.  Pull rear rotors, clean and adjust parking assembly. Inspect, clean and grease front calipers. Check pads and shoes.  4 wheel power bleed of brake system. Dot 4 Reset idle speed 50 rpm higher New Serpentine belt.    Will need new pads in the rear in about 5K more miles.    Tax Title and License out the door just short of a grand.    AC clutch had bitten the dust. 1 year warranty on the pick and save replacement. Thing will make a Polar Bear cry Uncle.  He spent quite some time on the wiring. It was in the harness and he does nothing half. I got off cheap. I have considerable more light down the road. Sylvania Silver Star replacements.  Gas seal between the porcelain and shell of plug #3 was blown, cooked the coil. That was the cold miss.  Love the new exhaust. I can sneak into the neighborhood again.  Nice to have a working parking brake again. Belle Tire never got it done. That was disappointing.    This was one of her bigger bills and still way cheaper than a payment even given the oil consumption. This thing cost me under a hundred a month in repairs and normal routine costs. What is my incentive to replace it? 🤔           
    • hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...