Brake Line Info....

[NikkiSeven]

     I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado ext. can 5.3 4x4

     Wondering how many feet of brake lines I need all the way around & what size?

Edited January 21, 2022 by NikkiSeven

[shakenfake]

You can purchase stainless steel line kits and they come with the exact size and length

[richard wysong]

yes GM sells oem factory bent line kits also, but be aware when the brake lines are installed at the factory the body and engine trans haven't been installed yet so to replace them you will have to bend and cut some of them to get them where they are supposed to go.  if you want to make your own the rears are 1/4 in line and a 25ft coil is plenty, use the copper/ nickel brake line and you will never have to do them again. you will need a tubing cutter, a flaring tool that does double inverted flares and a handful of inverted tubing nuts. that tubing bends easily so you won't need a bender the fronts are 3/16 line and you may want to go with the sticks instead of a coil. not sure if they make them in the copper yet. I would just buy 60in pieces and cut what I need if you don't want to buy a coil, 4 should be plenty of sticks. if the brake lines are gone the fuel lines may not be much better so be careful you don't open a can of worms doing the lines on the frame rail, I may be wrong on size of rear lines , some trucks use 3/16 to the rears as well but most run 1/4 from the abs to the rear hose then 3/16 on the axle

[dna9656]

This can be a huge job, frustrating at times, be ready to spend a lot more time that you think you'll need. If it goes well count your blessings! A lot of guys replace only the bad sections and that used to be ok if the rest of the line(s) are thoroughly inspected passing the highest expectations, if there's any doubt I'd replace the whole line; and that sounds like what your doing anyway.

[richard wysong]

make sure you can get the bleeder screws open, if they don't open fairly easily  don't force them or they will break off, hit them with penetrating oil and let them soak, if that doesn't do it you will need to heat the area around the screw being careful of the hose, caliper rubbers etc. try not to heat the screw itself. propane torch may not be hot enuff, try map gas or oxy acetelene. remove the screw, inspect the bleed holes not clogged, replace with a new screw if neccessary and never seize it when you reinstall. to remove the old tubing nuts cut the line with a pair of dikes as close to the nut as you can and use a 6 point socket on them

[richard wysong]

if you have a 2500 with the leaf spring very close to the backing plate you may want to either unbolt the backing plate or just the wheel cylinder to change the line and work on the bleeder  (rear drum brakes )