Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
15 hours ago, funinsun2022 said:

Infotainment sells this upgrade package.  

Very expensive though, almost 2k.  I was still thinking about doing it but since the stock radio is 7" and the upgrade is 8" I need to change bezel/trim plate but haven't been able to find what I would need.  They sell the trim plate individually for the 7" screen but the only thing I have seen for the 8" is having to buy the entire control assembly

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I too am trying to swap my jump seat for a center console. My '22 2500 Custom does not appear to have a wiring harness going to the jump seat under the passenger seat. Does anyone know if I can purchase this harness that runs from the center console to under the dash? I am only looking to power my center console light and USB outlets for charging. I do not need the data function.

Thank you

Posted
21 hours ago, Jagerschnapps1 said:

I too am trying to swap my jump seat for a center console. My '22 2500 Custom does not appear to have a wiring harness going to the jump seat under the passenger seat. Does anyone know if I can purchase this harness that runs from the center console to under the dash? I am only looking to power my center console light and USB outlets for charging. I do not need the data function.

Thank you

Yes you can, it is in the first post of the thread.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just swapped my jump seat for a center console in my 2022 2500 custom.  There was no place to plug in the center console harness and I do not have any spare unused wire harnesses under the carpet.  Has anyone encountered this issue yet? 
Thank you 

7F1F4B98-7BAC-44AE-8A4D-1ADCFFED868D.jpeg

Posted

You’re going to need to reference the parts in my original post. From what I’ve found you should have an original jump seat harness that was present underneath your seat. You then need the new wording lead from the dash usb to the console harness, need to buy, which then plugs into your existing jump seat wiring. The new wiring harness connects then spiders off to other locations, in arm rest usb, wireless charger (if applicable), rear usb (if applicable).

 

I have yet to do any swap this is just the information I’ve compiled along the way. Truthfully I’m ok with keeping my jump seat if I could route the data ports to inside of the arm rest. 

Posted

I have the harness in your original post on its way. The original part number was obsolete and it’s new replacement is what they are sending. Perhaps when it comes it will make more sense. 
thank you 

Posted (edited)

Hello all, came across this thread when looking to add the console usb's to my 2022 3500HD LT with center console and IOR radio. I pulled the blank cover (#5 in the 1st post) and all I can see is a harness running along the passenger side of the console. There is a "y" where it goes under the carpet towards the passenger seat and I can't reach far enough to see where it goes. Is it possible it's clipped to the floor sheetmetal? I really don't want to pull and find out it's not the lead / connector for the usb option. There's no obvious connector available anyway.

Edited by nocturnalmotors
Posted

I’m going to speculate that you have the console base wiring harness. It appears there are no leads for any of the additional accessories with that harness. I would assume, based on my research of what I need to do, purchase a higher model harness and swap out your existing one. Adding in the in console USB port and in theory, it should work. 

Posted
On 4/8/2022 at 10:03 PM, JS202137 said:

I’m going to speculate that you have the console base wiring harness. It appears there are no leads for any of the additional accessories with that harness. I would assume, based on my research of what I need to do, purchase a higher model harness and swap out your existing one. Adding in the in console USB port and in theory, it should work. 

That would make sense to me, thanks for the reply. I might just "T" off from the power if / when I install either the factory rear seatback tablet holders (grabs power from an upfitter harness in the driver's door jamb sill) or Boost Auto wireless charger (splits the power w/ harness from the existing rear console cig lighter 12v) down the road...

  • Like 1
Posted

All good options. Wireless charger from Boost Auto is a nice product. I’ve thought about that and doing a wireless CarPlay dongle but don’t want to out in the open hanging from my dash. Worst thing GM did in my opinion putting the data port on the dash vs in the jump seat/console.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 4/1/2022 at 10:08 PM, JS202137 said:

Please keep me posted in this thread if you don’t mind. Fingers crossed it makes everything work. 

So I changed out a few dash panels yesterday and while every was apart I installed the harness from the back of my dash mounted usb to the center console.  Unfortunately nothing changed.  I still cannot use the usb in the console. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 4/1/2022 at 10:08 PM, JS202137 said:

Please keep me posted in this thread if you don’t mind. Fingers crossed it makes everything work. 

So I did some work on the truck where I had to take the dash apart and I was able to plug in the cable to the port behind the dash usb and plugged it into the center console but did not gain any function on the centerconsole usb or card reader.  My truck is a custom with the ior radio option, this may be the reason.  I am also trying to find info on how to power the light in the center console storage. If anyone has figured it out please let me know. 
Thank you 

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Hey, just joined this forum. Not new to forums, but new to trucks. 

Does anyone have the part numbers to the two panels. They're the two panels this guy is talking about 5:10 into this video: https://youtu.be/w7KuV9U7cdE, see screenshots attached. 

Or if anyone has a set and is willing to part with them - let me know! 

 

Thanks ahead! 

Screenshot_20220822-153119_YouTube.jpg

Screenshot_20220822-153211_YouTube.jpg

Screenshot_20220822-153309_YouTube.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...