Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm having issues with the chime in my truck.  When I turn the key on, the chime will sometimes be extra loud (over 100db on a iphone app).  Sometimes it will be all 5 dings will be loud & other times it will be the first ding loud then the rest normal.  I've verified that the chime volume on the settings page is turned all the way down.  I took the truck to the dealer for another item so I had them check it out.  They said it is normal for these trucks to have loud chimes (blowing me off).  I've had the truck since new & now has 204k miles on it.  The chime used to be normal.

 

Only major changes to the truck was deleting it July 2021.  

 

Appreciate any ideas.

Posted

I've experienced the same thing in an 18' Sierra 1500 Denali...has done it maybe 3 times over the past year with no direct cause.  I thought I was always crazy for thinking it was abnormally loud until I saw your post.

 

I'm guessing it's just something wonky in the programming logic...for example I've had the radio switch favorites while turning the truck off and then the radio stayed on even though the key was out, driver door had opened & closed, and the truck was locked.

Posted

I'd check your grounds to make sure they're tight and clean. The one behind the passenger front splash shield is a popular one to check. I'm not sure if GM fixed the insulation problem by the 2016 MY, but there is one in the dash that can cause issues if the ground is touching the insulation. There are videos on YouTube on how to fix this.

Posted

The dealership has an amplifier on order for the truck.  They said that is what GM suggested.  Fingers crossed that it fixes the chime.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I got the amp replaced last week at the dealership and it fixed the chime issue.  I assume it was a short or something in the amp.  It didn't take them long to replace the amp (it's behind the rear seats).  I thought about doing it myself but the work order says there is programming involved.  

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,920
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Frank V
    Newest Member
    Frank V
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,240 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...