Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I drive a 2012 GMC Yukon XL (Denali Version) with the 6.2L engine (with AFM technology still intact) that has 205,000 miles on it. I recently experienced the DOD lifter failure on cylinder 4 (passenger side second valve back) and subsequently replaced all of the lifters on that side only. While I had the head pulled for the lifter replacement, I had it resurfaced and checked for proper operation by a local engine machine shop which I used to get the lifters (instead of buying cheap Chinese lifters from O'Reilly's). After re-assembly of everything there is still a ticking noise (assumed lifter noise) coming from the passenger side. I have checked all rocker arms and push rods for issues and ensured each was re-torqued properly and there was no excess play following re-installation, ticking still exists. During all of these efforts post initial re-assembly I have noticed the fuel pressure after the engine warms up is much lower than normal (less than 20psi while idling), there is an occasional miss, I am experiencing low speed loss of power, and very rough down shifting of the transmission. After reading some posts on this forum I believe I need to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and hopefully that will resolve most of these issues but wanted to post and see if anyone had any other suggestions. I like this truck and want to keep it running as long as possible given it is paid off. Thank you in advance for your reply! 

  • Like 1
Posted

What brand of lifter did the machine shop use?

It is SOP to replace the lifter trays whenever doing this kind of work AND to replace the VLOM as it is the VLOMs solenoids that get out of time and take out the lifters usually.

 

Normal fuel pressure for your truck running from idle to WOT is 43.5 psi.  If she is running 20 psi, see why, and you might have to replace the whole pump assembly.

 

Low fuel pressure can certainly cause drivability issues, fix that first.  Do you have a Tech-2 or something similar for diagnostic testing?

Posted

Thank you for the reply! I did not replace the lifter trays as the engine mechanic I spoke to suggested reusing the old ones rather than replace them with a non-OEM version that would be available. I did not mess at all with the VLOM, I was actually guided to disable the AFM all-together as it seems to cause more issues than it helps.

 

Additionally, I have a basic code reader that will also read some engine parameters but not all of them. I plan to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and maybe the sensor this weekend hoping that is the key issue. If not, where is the pump assembly located in the event that is the next move? 

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, mbrown_btx said:

Thank you for the reply! I did not replace the lifter trays as the engine mechanic I spoke to suggested reusing the old ones rather than replace them with a non-OEM version that would be available. I did not mess at all with the VLOM, I was actually guided to disable the AFM all-together as it seems to cause more issues than it helps.

 

Additionally, I have a basic code reader that will also read some engine parameters but not all of them. I plan to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and maybe the sensor this weekend hoping that is the key issue. If not, where is the pump assembly located in the event that is the next move? 

 

 

A bit of ill advice from the engine mechanic.  At 200K you should most definitely have replaced the trays and the VLOM.  The trays are plastic and can be a weak point.  GM has bulletins on the 14-18 motors for AFM lifter failure and no matter the mileage they want those components replaced to eliminate potential re-failure of lifters.  

 

What really should have happened here if they recommended disabling the system would have been to order an AFM delete kit which is new non active lifters, a new cam and a VLOM delete and then have the AFM turned off with HP Tuners.  

  • Like 3
Posted

You came to the party late mrbrown. Newdude speaks the right way.

Posted

newdude, thanks! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again?

Posted

newdude, thanks for the information! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again and replace the parts that I didn't the first time 

Posted

newdude, thanks for the information! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again and replace the parts that I didn't the first time around? Not preferred but neither is a large car payment...

Posted

If the mechanic didn't check the cam when he replaced the lifters, I believe I'd find a new mechanic...the failed lifter more than likely scarred one of the cam lobes.  And, ain't but one way to find out...complete tear down and replace all lifters, lifter trays, cam, etc with NON-AFM parts, and tuning AFM out

  • Like 1
Posted

are you having oil pressure or fuel pressure issues? oil pressure usually will not cause drivability issues but is probably the cause of the ticking. possibly the oring on the pick up tube which can be accessed thru the timing cover or drop the oil pan. extensive posts on this problem and the fixes on this forum

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,866
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Greg3160
    Newest Member
    Greg3160
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 486 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Late reply, but yes—it works on the SLT trim. Compatibility comes down to the plastic shroud shape behind your mirror, not the trim badge itself. On the SLT with auto-dimming, it uses a plug-and-play Y-harness off the mirror/rain sensor power, so no need to run wires down to the OBD port. If anyone's ever unsure about fitment, just drop a photo of your mirror housing and we can double-check it.   Appreciate the detailed feedback on the install! On the windshield glare—we actually took feedback like yours and developed a dedicated CPL (polarizer) filter to cut down dash reflections on sunny days. If you're still running the cam, shoot me a DM. I'd be happy to send a CPL filter over for you to test out—no charge. 
    • There are no stickers in your glovebox?
    • Look at the numbers on the stickers in the door jam...
    • Yes, every time the developer updates his code, you must recompile. I will private message you with the latest because it changes pretty much with every version.
    • After I wrote that reply I went for a ride. 85 F out. So trans started at 85 F and it shifted the same as it did an hour latter at 168 F. I've never actually recorded the to cold to shift point but it is under 32 F before they start hanging on to a lower gear or leaving the converter unlocked. Both intended to heat fluid.    Yes, brake or bake. Absolutely.      Your welcome. True research ended decades ago. Field trials are still in play.    There is a thing called oxidation onset temperature. This is the heat related oxidation not the O2 exposure kind. For mineral oil that starts at 140 F. So what happens after 140 F? Each 20 F cuts fluid life in half! Does using a Full Synthetic improve that? Yes! By how much? Depends on the base oil type and a few other factors. But enough to notice. Some esters are even higher. There are even synergies between types the will raise it higher than any one component is alone.    Then there is "Hindered" oils. Antioxidant additives. Hindered Polyol Esters can sit at 500 F for years in a turbine.   When a blender brags his oil will 'take 500 F" in service he doesn't specify for how long. Water will dance on a 500 F hot plate for several seconds. @newdude put up a chart showing the relationship between fluid temperature and it's life in an automatic transmission. Here's a version of that chart for Group III based oils. These temperatures are those in the pan as observed as 'normal'. that is you drive as you do for as long as you do under what load you ask of it and whatever that temperature is this graph applies to. Flash temperatures of a few minutes isn't what his means.    Note that fluids held at a constant 240 F have a service life of only 20K miles. 220 F explains the factory exchange limit, eh? My equipment I keep under 180 F and I'm good if the cooler will hold it as low as 140 F. But that's me.   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...