Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I drive a 2012 GMC Yukon XL (Denali Version) with the 6.2L engine (with AFM technology still intact) that has 205,000 miles on it. I recently experienced the DOD lifter failure on cylinder 4 (passenger side second valve back) and subsequently replaced all of the lifters on that side only. While I had the head pulled for the lifter replacement, I had it resurfaced and checked for proper operation by a local engine machine shop which I used to get the lifters (instead of buying cheap Chinese lifters from O'Reilly's). After re-assembly of everything there is still a ticking noise (assumed lifter noise) coming from the passenger side. I have checked all rocker arms and push rods for issues and ensured each was re-torqued properly and there was no excess play following re-installation, ticking still exists. During all of these efforts post initial re-assembly I have noticed the fuel pressure after the engine warms up is much lower than normal (less than 20psi while idling), there is an occasional miss, I am experiencing low speed loss of power, and very rough down shifting of the transmission. After reading some posts on this forum I believe I need to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and hopefully that will resolve most of these issues but wanted to post and see if anyone had any other suggestions. I like this truck and want to keep it running as long as possible given it is paid off. Thank you in advance for your reply! 

  • Like 1
Posted

What brand of lifter did the machine shop use?

It is SOP to replace the lifter trays whenever doing this kind of work AND to replace the VLOM as it is the VLOMs solenoids that get out of time and take out the lifters usually.

 

Normal fuel pressure for your truck running from idle to WOT is 43.5 psi.  If she is running 20 psi, see why, and you might have to replace the whole pump assembly.

 

Low fuel pressure can certainly cause drivability issues, fix that first.  Do you have a Tech-2 or something similar for diagnostic testing?

Posted

Thank you for the reply! I did not replace the lifter trays as the engine mechanic I spoke to suggested reusing the old ones rather than replace them with a non-OEM version that would be available. I did not mess at all with the VLOM, I was actually guided to disable the AFM all-together as it seems to cause more issues than it helps.

 

Additionally, I have a basic code reader that will also read some engine parameters but not all of them. I plan to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and maybe the sensor this weekend hoping that is the key issue. If not, where is the pump assembly located in the event that is the next move? 

  • Like 1
Posted
18 hours ago, mbrown_btx said:

Thank you for the reply! I did not replace the lifter trays as the engine mechanic I spoke to suggested reusing the old ones rather than replace them with a non-OEM version that would be available. I did not mess at all with the VLOM, I was actually guided to disable the AFM all-together as it seems to cause more issues than it helps.

 

Additionally, I have a basic code reader that will also read some engine parameters but not all of them. I plan to replace the oil pressure sensor filter and maybe the sensor this weekend hoping that is the key issue. If not, where is the pump assembly located in the event that is the next move? 

 

 

A bit of ill advice from the engine mechanic.  At 200K you should most definitely have replaced the trays and the VLOM.  The trays are plastic and can be a weak point.  GM has bulletins on the 14-18 motors for AFM lifter failure and no matter the mileage they want those components replaced to eliminate potential re-failure of lifters.  

 

What really should have happened here if they recommended disabling the system would have been to order an AFM delete kit which is new non active lifters, a new cam and a VLOM delete and then have the AFM turned off with HP Tuners.  

  • Like 3
Posted

You came to the party late mrbrown. Newdude speaks the right way.

Posted

newdude, thanks! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again?

Posted

newdude, thanks for the information! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again and replace the parts that I didn't the first time 

Posted

newdude, thanks for the information! What are your suggestions for moving forward? Do I need to tear it apart again and replace the parts that I didn't the first time around? Not preferred but neither is a large car payment...

Posted

If the mechanic didn't check the cam when he replaced the lifters, I believe I'd find a new mechanic...the failed lifter more than likely scarred one of the cam lobes.  And, ain't but one way to find out...complete tear down and replace all lifters, lifter trays, cam, etc with NON-AFM parts, and tuning AFM out

  • Like 1
Posted

are you having oil pressure or fuel pressure issues? oil pressure usually will not cause drivability issues but is probably the cause of the ticking. possibly the oring on the pick up tube which can be accessed thru the timing cover or drop the oil pan. extensive posts on this problem and the fixes on this forum

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,860
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    HWN808
    Newest Member
    HWN808
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 1 Anonymous, 1,071 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Diesel $5.42 at the truck stop on the hi-way
    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...