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Posted

Yesterday, after being on vacation and out of town for a week, was on the way home, and stopped for takeout, and the driver's window wouldn't go down.  So, I pushed the door button again, and after a few tries, it finally came down.  Then, it didn't want to go up, until after a few more tries.  I'm hoping this is not an indication of some expensive fix to be needed soon.  I had to have the door lock actuators replaced as soon as I bought it, so hoping that won't be needed for the windows, too.  Those were kinda pricey!  Anyone else seen this, and what did you do to fix it?

Posted

You have a 14 year old truck jammer, things are going to need replaced, if you're not capable of doing repairs it can get expensive.   

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Posted

I wonder why they don't make a vehicle with a small generator for recharging the battery? Then they would have unlimited range. The tree huggers will say that defeats the idea of zero emissions but the power when you plug in is more than likely coming from a facility burning carbon based fuel. It could be multi-fuel , propane, hydrogen, alcohol fueled or even solar or wind powered

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Posted

Sorry that ended up on the wrong post. Jammer check the wiring between the door and the body after checking the switch for proper operation

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Posted
1 hour ago, richard wysong said:

I wonder why they don't make a vehicle with a small generator for recharging the battery? 

It's probably already in the works... the genny will take of place of the current glove box in the dash, it will be a 2 cycle engine and the exhaust has the added benefit of defogging the windshield. 😉

Posted
1 hour ago, richard wysong said:

Sorry that ended up on the wrong post. Jammer check the wiring between the door and the body after checking the switch for proper operation

PO of the truck had it in a VERY sandy/dusty environment, so maybe something got in the switch.  I'll check.  Thanks for the suggestion of the wiring connector between body and door.  I'll take a look at that as well.  I also need to check behind the inside door panel for the rod that connects the lock with the mechanism, so I'll look around in there for this, also.

Posted
2 hours ago, diyer2 said:

You have a 14 year old truck jammer, things are going to need replaced, if you're not capable of doing repairs it can get expensive.   

Not exactly "helpful", but I understand it's an older truck, and things eventually do wear out, though "electronics" are not usually one of those.  I'm comfortable doing "minor" things, but leave drivetrain and mechanical power issues to the professionals.  I've had too many times when I thought I could handle an "electronic gremlin" issue, and only ended up making things worse, and don't want to make that mistake again.

Do you have any "constructive" suggestions on what I should check or look at?

Posted
2 hours ago, diyer2 said:

You have a 14 year old truck jammer, things are going to need replaced, if you're not capable of doing repairs it can get expensive.   

I was on a two week trip recently. After a drought through the summer it rained inches while we were gone. Living in Texas humidity it’s not uncommon if you don’t drive your vehicle for a few days the brakes sound funny for a few miles. Took the Avalanche out to run errands notice a burning smell when I returned home. Seeing brake dust on the wheel feeling some heat. A sign of sticky brakes. Being a 20 year old truck the first thing I thought of was a bad rubber line. Thinking some more I made a list of things to try before pulling the wheel. With the original slotted mags I could see the caliper. Remembering the little can of WD -40 I figured what the hell. Putting the little hose on I could easily hit the slides on the caliper. Can’t be this easy, never is. I let it sit over night. Drove to my walking trail, no dust no heat. That never happens, but it did! Next trip to Wally World brake clean and spray on grease. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Do the other windows work?  These trucks are bad for allowing moisture inside the door panel.  I just replaced my window switch.  The driver's window worked fine but the others were hard to roll up and down from the driver's switch.  Fortunately you can get them for around $15 from Amazon and they're easy to replace.  All 4 windows work great now.  I've also replaced the switch for the power mirror and the speaker.

Posted

My '10 Sierra did the same thing...window(s) would intermittently work with no rhyme or reason as to when they would or wouldn't.  I was about to break down and buy a new switch when I ran across this video on YT.  Pulled the switch, cleaned it up, and reinstalled it and it worked fine from then on

 

 

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