Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 11/30/2022 at 11:24 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Here's an explanation of the issue from the people that make the parts used to modify them: 

 

6L80, 6L90 Transmissions: Consider an Updated Converter in Your Next Rebuild | Sonnax

Here is another article that complements the Sonnax article; it has more information on the waviness of the cover's clutch surface along with some nice pictures.

https://gearsmagazine.com/magazine/another-problem-with-the-6l80-90-converter/ 

  • Thanks 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hey everybody. I'm finding some great tips and information in this thread that hopefully I can apply to my situation. I'm the original owner of my 2014 GMC Sierra 1500. It has 220k miles on it. All highway commuting and never towed. Just hauling stuff in the bed. I've followed all the GM service recommendations and recalls. After my warranty expired, I found a mechanic shop that specializes in GM and AC Delco parts. This truck has never been a smooth shifter and I've learned to deal with it, but in the past couple of months I began to feel a shudder when shifting. It's always right between 1600-2000 rpms. At stop lights it will start to roll like its in neutral and I'll have to feather the brake and gas a little bit to get it in gear, similar to manual transmission. Once the truck is rolling it shifts fine between the rest of the gears. The same goes for reverse too.

 

I'm not in a position to buy a new vehicle at the moment. Which also means I don't have the money for a replacement transmission. All things have a shelf life and its an 9 year old truck with 220k miles so I'm being realistic here, but can I salvage this? I've done some searching on this site and I've see owners post about similar problems and claiming a new torque converter usually does the trick. I have the money to spend on a new torque converter, but I can't afford to keep taking it back and forth to a shop to continue diagnosing the problem. I just wish I knew that was problem and can be fixed. I've also see a ton of posts about switching transmission fluids, throwing in additives etc. You can really go down a rabbit hole in terms of solutions and it gets a bit overwhelming. Can anyone offer up any advice, tips, personal experiences? I love my truck. I'm the one owner and I've racked up all the 220,000+ miles on her. Don't want to get rid of it just yet guys.

Posted (edited)

Well the trucks is getting the original pan dropped this week, filter change and I am having this pan with a drain plug installed. Hope the drain plug does not interfere with the filter.

Anyone put the plug in this area?

I have no idea how much clearance there is in this area

IMG_2993.JPG

Edited by No Tyme
Posted
39 minutes ago, No Tyme said:

Well the trucks is getting the original pan dropped this week, filter change and I am having this pan with a drain plug installed. Hope the drain plug does not interfere with the filter.

Anyone put the plug in this area?

I have no idea how much clearance there is in this area

IMG_2993.JPG

 

See that horseshoe in the bottom of the pan? Top of the photo. Filter rest on that. IF the drain is equal to or lower than that, no problem. 

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

See that horseshoe in the bottom of the pan? Top of the photo. Filter rest on that. IF the drain is equal to or lower than that, no problem. 

This should do it... Thank you Grumpy Bear

pan done.jpg

  • Like 2
  • 1 year later...
Posted

When my truck hit 50K miles about 3 years ago I had the dealer service the transmission. When I got home I looked underneath and I swear nothing was touched, either that or the tech was extremely meticulous cleaning up. I've been very suspicious of this since then so yesterday at 72K miles I used a pump through the dipstick but I was only able to extract about 2 quarts. The oil was very dark and had a burnt odor. I added 2 qts Dexron Syn. I've babied this truck since new, never hauled or towed, tranny continues work fine, now I'm almost certain the dealer never serviced it but gladly took my money $220. So, has anyone else paid for services but suspected not rendered?

Posted
5 minutes ago, beetle said:

When my truck hit 50K miles about 3 years ago I had the dealer service the transmission. When I got home I looked underneath and I swear nothing was touched, either that or the tech was extremely meticulous cleaning up. I've been very suspicious of this since then so yesterday at 72K miles I used a pump through the dipstick but I was only able to extract about 2 quarts. The oil was very dark and had a burnt odor. I added 2 qts Dexron Syn. I've babied this truck since new, never hauled or towed, tranny continues work fine, now I'm almost certain the dealer never serviced it but gladly took my money $220. So, has anyone else paid for services but suspected not rendered?

Did you request a filter change? It’s very easy to pull from the dipstick or cooler lines. Its easier than pulling the pan.

Posted

My 2018 is at 119K plus and I purchased a pan at a auto parts store, had a friend tig weld a drain plug in and had an independent shop drop the pan, change filter and install the new pan. Now every 20K or so, I drain out what I can and replace with fresh fluid. Cost a bit but I think this is the best thing to do so I don't pay the dealer for something they may or may not do.

  • Like 2
Posted
8 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

Did you request a filter change? It’s very easy to pull from the dipstick or cooler lines. Its easier than pulling the pan.

Almost forgot you have to do it more than once to get most of the fluid out. I did my truck through the dipstick. Drove for a week and did it again. Through the cooler lines once would do it. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted
1 hour ago, KARNUT said:

Did you request a filter change? It’s very easy to pull from the dipstick or cooler lines. Its easier than pulling the pan.

I was charged for the filter, so.......

  • Like 1
  • Sad 1
Posted
5 minutes ago, beetle said:

I was charged for the filter, so.......

 

This is why the dealer only touches my truck for RECALLS and not all of them. 

Posted

I Agree Marty.

 

14 years on my truck and only seen the dealer twice.

 

1) Rear emblem on the tailgate peeling - replaced under warranty

2) Airbag recall for the passenger airbag (and they cracked the dash skin doing it.)

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Depends on the dealer. My local Honda dealer has been excellent for the 22 years I’ve been using them. My Hyundai dealer has been a close second. Using them since 05. My Ford dealer was the worst which drove me across the street to the GMC-Hyundai dealership. 

Posted
15 hours ago, beetle said:

When my truck hit 50K miles about 3 years ago I had the dealer service the transmission. When I got home I looked underneath and I swear nothing was touched, either that or the tech was extremely meticulous cleaning up. I've been very suspicious of this since then so yesterday at 72K miles I used a pump through the dipstick but I was only able to extract about 2 quarts. The oil was very dark and had a burnt odor. I added 2 qts Dexron Syn. I've babied this truck since new, never hauled or towed, tranny continues work fine, now I'm almost certain the dealer never serviced it but gladly took my money $220. So, has anyone else paid for services but suspected not rendered?

 

So, do you just want a list of others that will complain OR do you want this fixed? I see only one question :dunno:

Posted
40 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

So, do you just want a list of others that will complain OR do you want this fixed? I see only one question :dunno:

I just wanted to know if anyone else had a dealer experience similar to mine, it was a fair question, ok?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...