Caliper slide pin stuck.

[2009_Suburban]

This is my first time changing brake pads and rotors. I have a 2009 chevy suburban. I took off the caliper mounting bracket (I'm changing the front brakes), and the upper slide pin moves, but the lower is seized. I tried turning it with a wrench, but it still wouldn't move. How can I get it out? Should I use a breaker bar and twist it? Since it is seized, do I have to replace just the pin if I can get it out, or the whole mounting bracket? The inner brake pad has worn much more than the outer. The other side of the car didn't have any seized caliper pins, but the inner brake pad was a little more worn than the other. What parts should I replace other than the pads and rotors that I am already replacing?

Edited December 28, 2022 by 2009_Suburban
spelling

[CamGTP]

If possible you will want to use some heat. I use a torch and heat up the caliper bracket around the pin, then use vise grips to try and twist/turn it. Heating up the bracket can help expand the metal and break it free.

From there I will clean the inside out with a drill bit and lots of parts cleaner. Then slam tons of grease down inside of it with new caliper pins and boots.

 

If you can't get the pin out you will have to but a new bracket.

[richard wysong]

A reman caliper may be the way to go if you can't get it apart. They are not that expensive. On the other side make sure you clean and lube the pins and make sure the pads move freely on the bracket. rust builds up under the antirattle hardware and "jambs" the pads from moving. Remove the hardware and grind, sand, scrape, sandblast the rust from the bracket and coat the surface with a synthetic grease to slow down future corrosion. Brake jobs are MUCH more than slapping pads and rotors on and should include a complete inspection of all the lines and hoses, rubber parts of the calipers and a brake fluid flush for a complete job

Edited December 28, 2022 by richard wysong

[2009_Suburban]

Can I use this grease for the caliper slide pins? https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SL_SL3301?impressionRank=1

The napa guy said it is what I should use.

[CamGTP]

Yes, that's fine.

[2009_Suburban]

21 hours ago, CamGTP said:

If possible you will want to use some heat. I use a torch and heat up the caliper bracket around the pin, then use vise grips to try and twist/turn it. Heating up the bracket can help expand the metal and break it free.

From there I will clean the inside out with a drill bit and lots of parts cleaner. Then slam tons of grease down inside of it with new caliper pins and boots.

 

If you can't get the pin out you will have to but a new bracket.

Should I do this for all 4 pins? Or is it unnecessary?  I already have enough boots, and the other pins were slightly gritty.

[CamGTP]

If the other pins move fine just clean and grease them.

[2009_Suburban]

I just put everything back together.

I cleaned out the inside where the pin goes, and put in a new slide pin after greasing it. I took it out to see what it looks like, and it seems like it has less grease than another pin that has not been cleaned yet. I dont think I can get it any greasier. Does this mean the grease that I used is not good?  Here is a photo:

 

Also, when installing the new boots, the edges are slightly damaged. Is that fine? The inside of the boot is all rubber, so no grease should be able to get out. Here is a photo.

 

[dna9656]

There is a grease intended for lubing brake parts; it comes in a plastic jar/bottle about the size of a medicine bottle and has a brush integrated to the cap. It's usually grey/black. It has a High melting point as brake parts get REALLY hot. Chassis grease doesn't even get warm except in the wheel bearings, ball joints, tie rods, relay rods, rack and pinion, idler arms, and pit man arms don't move fast enough to get hot.

I use the grease intended for brakes; I use on the little pads you find on the backing plates of drum brakes, on the self adjusters there and every where there is friction; (except the brake shoe surfaces of course) where the springs attach, the hardware that holds the shoes in position, etc. I use VERY little in all these places. Contrary to what you might think, drum brakes that get contaminated with lubrication products lock up tight.

I myself replace ALL parts that are not perfect on brakes. Remember, brakes MUST BE ABSOLUTELY RELIABLE ABSOLUTELY. When you step on that pedal you want that vehicle to stop and stop safely. The cost/time it takes to replace parts that aren't PERFECT is far less than having someone's injury or death on your mind the rest of your life.

[richard wysong]

It's 1 thing if your vehicle won't start,a whole different thing if it won't stop. I have lost  more than 1 customer by refusing to cut corners on brake jobs

[2009_Suburban]

Are you guys trying to say that I should re grease the pins with something else?

Would this https://www.autozone.com/greases-and-gear-oil/brake-lube/p/crc-synthetic-brake-caliper-grease-8oz/826455_0_0

 

or this work?

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PTX7653176?impressionRank=1

 

[CamGTP]

The brake grease you already got is just fine.

Why are we even questioning this stuff? It says brake and caliper grease right on the dang bottle.

 

I've used dozens of different brake greases over my years of working in shops and doing personal stuff. It all works the same to me, grease is better than no grease. They all have high melting points, like 400-500+ degrees. You have to be trying to murder your brakes if you are getting the rotors that hot in a daily driver.

[2009_Suburban]

I noticed that the brakes don't feel as firm as I expected when I brake as I thought new parts would make it firmer. They feel a bit spongier than before. Easier to push, and I push down further to brake.  Is this expected since I freed that caliper pin?

[richard wysong]

YEP, everything is free now so there will be a little more pedal travel. Brake pads need to be properly broken in before they develop the best friction, if they didn't come with instructions usually around 10 stops from about 30mph allowing the brakes to cool between stops but different compounds can have vastly different break in procedures. It is normal for ABS brakes to feel slightly spongy while sitting still but should feel normal driving

[CamGTP]

And if the brake fluid is from 2009, it needs to be changed and bleed at all 4 corners.