Jump to content

Transmission temperature 10speed with 3.0 LZO Duramax

steve king
 Share

Recommended Posts

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, Rick_ said:

So you are saying that there is a water to oil transmission fluid "heater" along with an air to atf heat exchanger?  Where do I get hold of a diagram/microfiche of that routing?   Is the water to oil cooler a bar plate job between the trans thermostat and the air to oil cooler?

In the 2022 10L80/90? valve body there is a valve called the Cooler Thermostat Valve that gets modded to eliminate regulation to the flow to the cooler.  There are two styles - the 2022 has no brass thermostat, but later versions seem to have it.

Testing today after the valve body kit install, zero change in gauge temp unloaded - 180F at 84*F unloaded, so the atf heater is doing its job.   The positive so far is the lag in shifting from R to D has been eliminated.

 

There is a brass "thermostat" in the Cooler Thermostat Valve that is removed with the NextGen kit for the 10L1000 - 135F gauge temp with a 5000lb boat in small rolling hills at 85*F.   

 

 

The exchanger is bolted right to the driver's side of the transmission.  Would I go as far as to call it a heater?  No.  Does it aid in warming up the ATF to reduce friction as quickly as possible?  Yes.  What's the internals to it?  No idea.  Never cut one open.  

 

However, it's primary role is maintaining transmission temperatures once up to temp.  No different than an oil to water exchanger for an engine oil cooler setup like GM uses on say 2010-2024 Camaro with V8, or 6.6 Duramax.  

 

 

Gas 10L80s (so 1500 truck with gas V8) have a thermostat in the valve body but not the cooler lines.  2019-current.

 

3.0 Duramax with 10L80 don't have a thermostat in the valve body.  They have one in the lines going to the auxiliary cooler.  2020-current.  
 

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Pairofkings
Pairofkings

Update to my original post.  I installed the PPE thermal bypass block on my transmission.  It made a huge difference in the operating temperature.  Today while towing my 5000# travel trailer at 70MPH

PunchT37
PunchT37

The cooler the trans the better. My 10L80 with NHT package stays 145`ish most of the time. That`s down here in the heat. I damn sure don`t want to run a ULV oil at 180 plus. Or, any ATF for that matte

newdude
newdude

Thermal Bypass full opens at 158F.  Transmission fluid check temperature range is 161-176F.  

Posted Images

PunchT37 Enthusiast

PunchT37

Posted
Posted

Mine runs 145 to 158 ,95% of the time. ‘25 1500 with 5.3 and nht option. Wonder how long it will last? Wonder how much water is in the oil? Bought it in Oct 2024. 
 

This was today in south Louisiana. 

IMG_4085.jpeg

newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, PunchT37 said:

Mine runs 145 to 158 ,95% of the time. ‘25 1500 with 5.3 and nht option. Wonder how long it will last? Wonder how much water is in the oil? Bought it in Oct 2024. 
 

This was today in south Louisiana. 

 

 

 

That's the proper range for the gas 10 speed with the thermostat still in the valve body.  TBV opens at 143F.

 

3.0 Duramax runs different temp. 

Edited by newdude
Rick_ Enthusiast

Rick_

Posted
Posted

I traced the atf cooling system in my 1500 and it comes out of the transmission, into the bar/plate liquid/liquid heat exchanger, as stated above.  Then it crosses over to the external thermostat/bypass and then  to the aux cooler in front of the main radiator.  Hence, on this routing, the PPE thermostat bypass eliminator is an $85 piece of bling that does nothing for reducing atf temps on this truck.  I think I'll temporarily clamp a needle nose vise grip on the coolant feed hose to the bar/plate cooler and see how much the atf temp drops.  With the use of ULV trans fluid, I'm not convinced running the trans cooler than OEM spec is going to be detrimental to the life of the transmission.   
I found this interesting on the Dana/Long site stating that they make transmission cooling/heating bar plate heat exchangers.  I worked with Dana/Long on a few projects when I was at the gas powered fun factory. https://www.dana.co.jp/downloads/PTG/Long/Dana_TOC_SpecSht.pdf  Bar plate heat exchangers are just a stack of stamped parallel path fluid channels, assembled and vacuum furnace brazed to make the final assembly.  Want more cooling/heating, just stack more plates until you run out of package space.  
Anyway, thanks for the info, much appreciated.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...