Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
23 hours ago, Grover67 said:

repairman54 do you have the Max Tow package?

 

-grover67

No just the standard tow package in a Z71

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted

Yes. Those are normal Temps.

 

I installed a PPE Trans Cooler, PPE Thermal Bypass, and PPE larger capacity Transmission Pan. Best thing I ever did. Transmission runs 130 degrees and never really deviates from that. When I stop cools a few degrees immediately.

image.thumb.jpeg.48f118b49521a0b2bd2dbf4fe3bc84cf.jpeg

 

Posted

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

Posted
49 minutes ago, MrMagloo said:

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

I had a 2023 Silverado with the 5.3 and 10L80 10-speed for a rental earlier this year. The transmission temperature stayed between 130-140 at all times. It is the same 10L80 that is in the 3.0 Duramax trucks. 

 

I will keep my PPE cooler and PPE bypass valve in. 190+ temperatures are not good for a transmission.

Posted (edited)

It's an interesting discussion as this vehicle is definitely running higher than what my past trucks used to run.  I've actually driven a number of 2021's through 2023's and they all ran in the 185 to 195 range. This seems to be the factory target.  Definitely not a range I'm comfortable with. 

Edited by MrMagloo
  • 1 year later...
Posted

I have a '23 Silverado RST 3.0. Normal Trans temps are 180-205, really varies a lot sometime while towing I'm below 180 and sometimes driving with no load I'm 200, weird. But I noticed when I'm parked, either idle or in park the temps can jump pretty quick. I was in a parking lot and just wanted to see where it would level off and got to almost 230 before I started driving again. Anyone know if this is normal? Ambient temp was only 59 degrees so not hot. It just didn't see like the temp was going to level off, just kept creeping. 

 

Any help appreciated.

Posted
26 minutes ago, Pbeau84 said:

I have a '23 Silverado RST 3.0. Normal Trans temps are 180-205, really varies a lot sometime while towing I'm below 180 and sometimes driving with no load I'm 200, weird. But I noticed when I'm parked, either idle or in park the temps can jump pretty quick. I was in a parking lot and just wanted to see where it would level off and got to almost 230 before I started driving again. Anyone know if this is normal? Ambient temp was only 59 degrees so not hot. It just didn't see like the temp was going to level off, just kept creeping. 

 

Any help appreciated.

Spoke to one dealer and said not an issue until 260-270 and that its normal 

Posted

Mine runs 190-200.

Colder weather it takes longer to get there.

 

The idling scenario wouldn't bother me at all. 

 

 

 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

My wife's '22 RST 3.0 with our 5000lb boat running 70mph in rolling hills at around 3000ft in low 90's temp runs up to 201* even with the Max Trailering package.  Looks like it's going to get the PPE bypass.  My '24 3500 Duramax barely cracks 150* with the same boat running between 70-75mph.  

Posted (edited)

That's seems to be where GM wants them to run 190 -200. 

Probably also why they use a different fluid than the 8 speed, which has a different fluid than the 6 speed.

 

Mine does those temps winter or summer, lightly loaded or heavy.

 

I does take longer to reach that temperature if lightly loaded in cool weather. 

Once it does get to that range it does not increase any more (winter or summer, lightly loaded or heavy).

There must be a fair amount of bypass flow when the thermostat is 'closed'. 

 

 

10 speed in a 3500 is a different transmission and uses a different fluid. 

 

Edited by redwngr
Posted
22 minutes ago, redwngr said:

 

10 speed in a 3500 is a different transmission and uses a different fluid. 

 

 

 

All GM 10 speeds use the same fluid.  Dexron ULV p/n 19352619.

  • Thanks 1
Posted
On 9/20/2023 at 1:43 PM, MrMagloo said:

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

 

I see we are neighbors. Good, then we have some common experience. How does the truck run on a -20 F winter day first start of the morning? Does is hang on to the 1-2 shift or the 2-3 a bit longer than when hot? Too cool. Then there are perhaps some parameters within the TCM or ECM that require a certain temperature to satisfy some requirement or another. Too cool. 

 

Now I don't own an Allison 10 so don't know it's programing but I'd still wager that the temperature in which ALL requirements are satisfied for 'normal' operation is something like 105-115 F AFT temperature. My 6L80E is 107 F. 

 

Anything between that trigger number and 'too hot' is a sound operating temperature. Too hot is over 175 F and will be for every transmission that uses hydrocarbon lubrication. So 120 F to 175 F is target. (120 F to 160 F for older boxes still using full conventional fluids). 

 

That doesn't mean the OEM designed it to operate in that area. Wear is not their first priority. Fuel economy and cost take priority over wear as long as wear keeps them out of the warranty claim box and they don't mind loosing a certain percentage of them even to that. Bean counters are not engineers and even engineers are subject to bosses whose priorities are not the consumer they sell to but the shareholders they placate. 

 

Anyone that tells you that 120 F is too cool and will accelerate wear is full of Internet regurgitated :bs:. Anyone that tells you that running over 175 F continuous will not shorten the life of the fluid/gearbox, ditto. 

 

There isn't any Kryptonite seals or clutch bonding materials saved only for Allison and no Unobtainium fluid that will take the heat of the sun. 

 

Does this mean that a box running 215/225 F is doomed? Not necessarily. It means the owner/operator will need to be more diligent about fluid exchange and live with less cushion for that long grade or silly hot day. 

 

image.png.e6cebc13367bb011e741173258013d42.png

 

Transmission life follows fluid life and the fluid doesn't know or care what box it is in.

transmission-fluid-life-.thumb.png.794ac83317a1d9195ed0011c651b32ff.png

 

 

This information originally came from Kendal Oil and has been displayed two dozen different ways by every Internet concern there is; often corrupted to read transmission life and not fluid life. 

 

You may notice that the OEM temperature range and the fluid change intervals come pretty darn close to the chart. You will also notice that when they don't the warranty miles isn't all that. There is no 'forever fluid'. 

 

Do with this information as you please. It will have no effect on my equipment whatsoever. :)   

  • Like 1
Posted

The cooler the trans the better. My 10L80 with NHT package stays 145`ish most of the time. That`s down here in the heat. I damn sure don`t want to run a ULV oil at 180 plus. Or, any ATF for that matter.

 

Show a bad trans that was removed because it "ran too cold".

 

Then, show a bad trans that was removed because it ran too hot.

 

Wonder how different those numbers would be?😉

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
19 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

All GM 10 speeds use the same fluid.  Dexron ULV p/n 19352619.

Thanks for the correction! 

 

Is there an Allison fluid that is also recommended? 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...