Jump to content

Transmission temperature 10speed with 3.0 LZO Duramax

steve king
 Share

Recommended Posts

repairman54 Enthusiast

repairman54

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, Grover67 said:

repairman54 do you have the Max Tow package?

 

-grover67

No just the standard tow package in a Z71

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Pairofkings
Pairofkings

Update to my original post.  I installed the PPE thermal bypass block on my transmission.  It made a huge difference in the operating temperature.  Today while towing my 5000# travel trailer at 70MPH

PunchT37
PunchT37

The cooler the trans the better. My 10L80 with NHT package stays 145`ish most of the time. That`s down here in the heat. I damn sure don`t want to run a ULV oil at 180 plus. Or, any ATF for that matte

newdude
newdude

Thermal Bypass full opens at 158F.  Transmission fluid check temperature range is 161-176F.  

Posted Images

LuvGinger New Member

LuvGinger

Posted
Posted

Yes. Those are normal Temps.

 

I installed a PPE Trans Cooler, PPE Thermal Bypass, and PPE larger capacity Transmission Pan. Best thing I ever did. Transmission runs 130 degrees and never really deviates from that. When I stop cools a few degrees immediately.

image.thumb.jpeg.48f118b49521a0b2bd2dbf4fe3bc84cf.jpeg

 

MrMagloo Enthusiast

MrMagloo

Posted
Posted

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
49 minutes ago, MrMagloo said:

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

I had a 2023 Silverado with the 5.3 and 10L80 10-speed for a rental earlier this year. The transmission temperature stayed between 130-140 at all times. It is the same 10L80 that is in the 3.0 Duramax trucks. 

 

I will keep my PPE cooler and PPE bypass valve in. 190+ temperatures are not good for a transmission.

MrMagloo Enthusiast

MrMagloo

Posted
Posted (edited)

It's an interesting discussion as this vehicle is definitely running higher than what my past trucks used to run.  I've actually driven a number of 2021's through 2023's and they all ran in the 185 to 195 range. This seems to be the factory target.  Definitely not a range I'm comfortable with. 

Edited by MrMagloo
  • 1 year later...
Pbeau84 New Member

Pbeau84

Posted
Posted

I have a '23 Silverado RST 3.0. Normal Trans temps are 180-205, really varies a lot sometime while towing I'm below 180 and sometimes driving with no load I'm 200, weird. But I noticed when I'm parked, either idle or in park the temps can jump pretty quick. I was in a parking lot and just wanted to see where it would level off and got to almost 230 before I started driving again. Anyone know if this is normal? Ambient temp was only 59 degrees so not hot. It just didn't see like the temp was going to level off, just kept creeping. 

 

Any help appreciated.

Pbeau84 New Member

Pbeau84

Posted
Posted
26 minutes ago, Pbeau84 said:

I have a '23 Silverado RST 3.0. Normal Trans temps are 180-205, really varies a lot sometime while towing I'm below 180 and sometimes driving with no load I'm 200, weird. But I noticed when I'm parked, either idle or in park the temps can jump pretty quick. I was in a parking lot and just wanted to see where it would level off and got to almost 230 before I started driving again. Anyone know if this is normal? Ambient temp was only 59 degrees so not hot. It just didn't see like the temp was going to level off, just kept creeping. 

 

Any help appreciated.

Spoke to one dealer and said not an issue until 260-270 and that its normal 

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted

Mine runs 190-200.

Colder weather it takes longer to get there.

 

The idling scenario wouldn't bother me at all. 

 

 

 

  • 7 months later...
Rick_ Enthusiast

Rick_

Posted
Posted

My wife's '22 RST 3.0 with our 5000lb boat running 70mph in rolling hills at around 3000ft in low 90's temp runs up to 201* even with the Max Trailering package.  Looks like it's going to get the PPE bypass.  My '24 3500 Duramax barely cracks 150* with the same boat running between 70-75mph.  

redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted (edited)

That's seems to be where GM wants them to run 190 -200. 

Probably also why they use a different fluid than the 8 speed, which has a different fluid than the 6 speed.

 

Mine does those temps winter or summer, lightly loaded or heavy.

 

I does take longer to reach that temperature if lightly loaded in cool weather. 

Once it does get to that range it does not increase any more (winter or summer, lightly loaded or heavy).

There must be a fair amount of bypass flow when the thermostat is 'closed'. 

 

 

10 speed in a 3500 is a different transmission and uses a different fluid. 

 

Edited by redwngr
newdude Senior Enthusiast

newdude

Posted
Posted
22 minutes ago, redwngr said:

 

10 speed in a 3500 is a different transmission and uses a different fluid. 

 

 

 

All GM 10 speeds use the same fluid.  Dexron ULV p/n 19352619.

  • Thanks 1
Grumpy Bear Senior Enthusiast

Grumpy Bear

Posted
Posted
On 9/20/2023 at 1:43 PM, MrMagloo said:

Just wondering out loud, at what point is the trans temp too cool?  I've read a lot of varying opinions, some suggesting you need to get at least into the 170-180 range on these new 10 speeds?  I've never heard of a trans running at a normal operating temp of 130.

 

I see we are neighbors. Good, then we have some common experience. How does the truck run on a -20 F winter day first start of the morning? Does is hang on to the 1-2 shift or the 2-3 a bit longer than when hot? Too cool. Then there are perhaps some parameters within the TCM or ECM that require a certain temperature to satisfy some requirement or another. Too cool. 

 

Now I don't own an Allison 10 so don't know it's programing but I'd still wager that the temperature in which ALL requirements are satisfied for 'normal' operation is something like 105-115 F AFT temperature. My 6L80E is 107 F. 

 

Anything between that trigger number and 'too hot' is a sound operating temperature. Too hot is over 175 F and will be for every transmission that uses hydrocarbon lubrication. So 120 F to 175 F is target. (120 F to 160 F for older boxes still using full conventional fluids). 

 

That doesn't mean the OEM designed it to operate in that area. Wear is not their first priority. Fuel economy and cost take priority over wear as long as wear keeps them out of the warranty claim box and they don't mind loosing a certain percentage of them even to that. Bean counters are not engineers and even engineers are subject to bosses whose priorities are not the consumer they sell to but the shareholders they placate. 

 

Anyone that tells you that 120 F is too cool and will accelerate wear is full of Internet regurgitated :bs:. Anyone that tells you that running over 175 F continuous will not shorten the life of the fluid/gearbox, ditto. 

 

There isn't any Kryptonite seals or clutch bonding materials saved only for Allison and no Unobtainium fluid that will take the heat of the sun. 

 

Does this mean that a box running 215/225 F is doomed? Not necessarily. It means the owner/operator will need to be more diligent about fluid exchange and live with less cushion for that long grade or silly hot day. 

 

image.png.e6cebc13367bb011e741173258013d42.png

 

Transmission life follows fluid life and the fluid doesn't know or care what box it is in.

transmission-fluid-life-.thumb.png.794ac83317a1d9195ed0011c651b32ff.png

 

 

This information originally came from Kendal Oil and has been displayed two dozen different ways by every Internet concern there is; often corrupted to read transmission life and not fluid life. 

 

You may notice that the OEM temperature range and the fluid change intervals come pretty darn close to the chart. You will also notice that when they don't the warranty miles isn't all that. There is no 'forever fluid'. 

 

Do with this information as you please. It will have no effect on my equipment whatsoever. :)   

  • Like 1
PunchT37 Enthusiast

PunchT37

Posted
Posted

The cooler the trans the better. My 10L80 with NHT package stays 145`ish most of the time. That`s down here in the heat. I damn sure don`t want to run a ULV oil at 180 plus. Or, any ATF for that matter.

 

Show a bad trans that was removed because it "ran too cold".

 

Then, show a bad trans that was removed because it ran too hot.

 

Wonder how different those numbers would be?😉

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
redwngr Senior Enthusiast

redwngr

Posted
Posted
19 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

All GM 10 speeds use the same fluid.  Dexron ULV p/n 19352619.

Thanks for the correction! 

 

Is there an Allison fluid that is also recommended? 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...