Jump to content

2024 Brake controller Problems

Curt Lowe
 Share

Recommended Posts

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted (edited)
4 minutes ago, Chadw90 said:

On the 12v wire. I bought a short extension cord, opened it up and installed a diode inline on the 12v wire

Didn't work for mine. I installed the hydrostar modules on both the 12 volt positive and the brake wire as suggested by hydrostar and my GM dealer. When I left this past Wednesday for an 8 hour trip with the trailer RV still did the brake disconnection went hard on the brakes, when I needed them the most. I forgot the 2022 module that I have at home or I would have swapped that in.

 

There is zero reason for the brakes to disconnect. Even if there is a problem with the trailer brakes the truck shouldn't disconnect. I see it as a major safety issue.

Edited by mjonesjr84
  • Replies 229
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Kyleb100
Kyleb100

I have the same issue with my 2024 sierra 3500. I get the “check trailer wiring” “service trailer brake system” intermittently. I spent $700 bucks to have the entire trailer re-wired from the pigtail

Rototerrier
Rototerrier

Good news. Disconnected Solar and for the first time ever i didn’t receive a check trailer wiring error when hooking up. Did a 20 mile loop without any issues. Will have to see what happens on my next

UWSkier
UWSkier

I've ordered a diode I'm going to put into the 12v line so the trailer can't push any voltage back to the truck.  Hope to do that, reconnect solar, then go for a drive to see if it fixed my problem.

Posted Images

Chadw90 Enthusiast

Chadw90

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

Didn't work for mine. I installed the hydrostar modules on both the 12 volt positive and the brake wire as suggested by hydrostar and my GM dealer. When I left this past Wednesday for an 8 hour trip with the trailer RV still did the brake disconnection went hard on the brakes, when I needed them the most. I forgot the 2022 module that I have at home or I would have swapped that in.

 

There is zero reason for the brakes to disconnect. Even if there is a problem with the trailer brakes the truck shouldn't disconnect. I see it as a major safety issue.

My problem was/is different than yours i guess. Yours is disconnecting, mine is dropping amperage as it seeing the trailer battery reach almost 13v’s. 
Once I put the diode inline, it prevented back-feeding and tricked the truck. 
My symptoms were strong brakes at the start and once the battery got charged up, Id have to turn the brake controller to 10 to get it to slightly grab the brakes. Most people wouldnt notice as they dont  periodically just check their brakes along the trip. The symptoms are same as brake fade, but it happens with every trailer of all configurations. 
Like you, Im not impressed. When I go to buy a new truck, if GM hasnt rectified this, I may entertain a Ford, possibly a (gulp) Dodge. 

  • Thanks 1
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Chadw90 said:

My problem was/is different than yours i guess. Yours is disconnecting, mine is dropping amperage as it seeing the trailer battery reach almost 13v’s. 
Once I put the diode inline, it prevented back-feeding and tricked the truck. 
My symptoms were strong brakes at the start and once the battery got charged up, Id have to turn the brake controller to 10 to get it to slightly grab the brakes. Most people wouldnt notice as they dont  periodically just check their brakes along the trip. The symptoms are same as brake fade, but it happens with every trailer of all configurations. 
Like you, Im not impressed. When I go to buy a new truck, if GM hasnt rectified this, I may entertain a Ford, possibly a (gulp) Dodge. 

Yea that's different.

 

I've read the new Rams have the same problem. I hate the Ford interior. 

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted

If I restart the truck, the brakes will come back on until I use them again. 

 

My trailer TPMS sensors keep going in and out as well.

Chadw90 Enthusiast

Chadw90

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, mjonesjr84 said:

If I restart the truck, the brakes will come back on until I use them again. 

 

My trailer TPMS sensors keep going in and out as well.

Get what you pay for I guess. Should have bought the Denali Ultimate for $130,000k CAD. Shame on me for buying the poverty AT4 for $106,000 lol. I should have kept my 2017, enough technology to keep you happy and not enough to have little gremlins like this. Id be tempted to go back to a 2017-2019 if I could find some gem that was just a sunday truck and low miles. 

  • Like 2
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, Chadw90 said:

Get what you pay for I guess. Should have bought the Denali Ultimate for $130,000k CAD. Shame on me for buying the poverty AT4 for $106,000 lol. I should have kept my 2017, enough technology to keep you happy and not enough to have little gremlins like this. Id be tempted to go back to a 2017-2019 if I could find some gem that was just a sunday truck and low miles. 

My brother's 21 and 22 3500s that he owns doesn't do this with my trailer. 

bruceb58 Enthusiast

bruceb58

Posted
Posted
13 hours ago, Chadw90 said:

My problem was/is different than yours i guess. Yours is disconnecting, mine is dropping amperage as it seeing the trailer battery reach almost 13v’s. 
Once I put the diode inline, it prevented back-feeding and tricked the truck. 
My symptoms were strong brakes at the start and once the battery got charged up, Id have to turn the brake controller to 10 to get it to slightly grab the brakes. Most people wouldnt notice as they dont  periodically just check their brakes along the trip. The symptoms are same as brake fade, but it happens with every trailer of all configurations. 
Like you, Im not impressed. When I go to buy a new truck, if GM hasnt rectified this, I may entertain a Ford, possibly a (gulp) Dodge. 

Do you have an EOH system or magnet electric brakes?

mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, bruceb58 said:

Do you have an EOH system or magnet electric brakes?

Magnetic drum brakes.

bruceb58 Enthusiast

bruceb58

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

Magnetic drum brakes.

I was asking the other guy.

 

Thought you had the EOH Hydrastar system!

  • Haha 1
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
12 minutes ago, bruceb58 said:

I was asking the other guy.

 

Thought you had the EOH Hydrastar system!

No. I talked to Hydrastar and they recommended their module for the electric drum brakes, even the dealer printed off a GM recommendation for the Hydrastar modules.

Chadw90 Enthusiast

Chadw90

Posted
Posted
On 10/5/2025 at 9:44 PM, bruceb58 said:

Do you have an EOH system or magnet electric brakes?

Magnet brakes here too. Electric hydraulic discs would be cool though 

bruceb58 Enthusiast

bruceb58

Posted
Posted (edited)
21 hours ago, Chadw90 said:

Magnet brakes here too. Electric hydraulic discs would be cool though 

Have you ever checked the voltage going to the brake magnets by comparing when the truck is running vs engine off? Of course you would just push the manual lever to perform this test.

 

I would think the voltage being sent to the magnets would be independent of battery voltage.

 

Another thing, Have you ever burnished your brakes? When I bought my trailer, I had to have the gain very high until I burnished the brakes. Then I could run at a gain of 6 where it required 9 before.

 

Edited by bruceb58
Chadw90 Enthusiast

Chadw90

Posted
Posted

Yes I have. Battery voltage at brakes with controller on 10. 
once the trailer battery was fully charged, the brake voltage remains the same, but amperage drops through the floor. I can pull 10 different models of new trailer out of the lineup (we sell trailers at my work) or 10 used trailers, all the same until i put the diode inline. 
try to explain voltage vs amperage to a dealership auto mechanic is like trying to explain colors of the leaves in fall to a color blind person. Just doesn’t resonate lol. 
Not sure why something like a trailer brake controller needs to be over engineered by running it through it’s own logic controller, what was wrong with 12V direct battery wire to brake controller to brakes. 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
mjonesjr84 Enthusiast

mjonesjr84

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Chadw90 said:

Yes I have. Battery voltage at brakes with controller on 10. 
once the trailer battery was fully charged, the brake voltage remains the same, but amperage drops through the floor. I can pull 10 different models of new trailer out of the lineup (we sell trailers at my work) or 10 used trailers, all the same until i put the diode inline. 
try to explain voltage vs amperage to a dealership auto mechanic is like trying to explain colors of the leaves in fall to a color blind person. Just doesn’t resonate lol. 
Not sure why something like a trailer brake controller needs to be over engineered by running it through it’s own logic controller, what was wrong with 12V direct battery wire to brake controller to brakes. 

 

1000%.

 

I actually got mine fixed yesterday and not by the dealer. I spent 30 minutes under the trailer testing each magnet (6) resistance. When they checked good, I decided to rewire the brakes from where the blue wire comes out of the harness at the axles. I eliminated each individual crossover in the axles with 1 cross over. I used 10AWG wire. Hooked the truck up, tested the brake switch in the driveway and got no disconnect. So I hooked the trailer up and drove it about 10 miles across town and back with no issues. 6 trailer brakes with a truck/trailer weight of 24k is nice. 

 

I don't understand why it would disconnect in my 25 but not my brothers 22. I can't believe GM hasn't been sued for a wreck. Even if there is an issue, an old fashioned trailer brake controller would still power through and work.

Chuck FB Enthusiast

Chuck FB

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, mjonesjr84 said:

1000%.

 

I actually got mine fixed yesterday and not by the dealer. I spent 30 minutes under the trailer testing each magnet (6) resistance. When they checked good, I decided to rewire the brakes from where the blue wire comes out of the harness at the axles. I eliminated each individual crossover in the axles with 1 cross over. I used 10AWG wire. Hooked the truck up, tested the brake switch in the driveway and got no disconnect. So I hooked the trailer up and drove it about 10 miles across town and back with no issues. 6 trailer brakes with a truck/trailer weight of 24k is nice. 

 

I don't understand why it would disconnect in my 25 but not my brothers 22. I can't believe GM hasn't been sued for a wreck. Even if there is an issue, an old fashioned trailer brake controller would still power through and work.

The further they forge ahead and invent complexity the further we fall behind !. 

 

So you had gone through the positive side of the braking system replacing wires and that for some reason made the trucks system happy, I was wondering what the condition of the negative side of the wiring system is in. Its been so long since I have looked at how they tend to wire up trailers to ground the axle hub I just don't know how elaborate or pathetic they create the negative path. Obviously your negative side is doing well enough to allow the brakes to function but why I asked how healthy it appears to be and if they run the negative from the hubs just to the frame and rely on grounding contact there and near the hitch the negative grounds there for the trailer plug ?. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Atlas · Posted

      There's some truth to the above, but also, she's selling fullsize trucks and bread/butter CUV's like hotcakes, meanwhile, extracting GM's pickups from the deep discounting sales game.   GM's stock has held its own during her tenure, and the more recent buybacks are delivering cash back to investors and signal confidence in their direction forward. Even with the EV losses.   GM is an example of a modern publicly traded company. The #1 goal of any publicly traded company is to deliver the most value possible to shareholders. Despite being a car company, building the best car isn't GM's path to delivering maximum shareholder value.   McDonalds doesn't make the best burger, or the best coffee.   I've mentioned in another thread, I really don't / won't ever understand Cadillac or Buick in a modern context. Both brands are completely dead to me. I'll cede that the Escalade is a nice SUV, but the brand and nameplate mean nothing to me, and GM will never persuade me to pay north of $170k for a gussied-up Tahoe or Burb. Other people don't mind doing that and that's their purview.   The C8 shares absolutely nothing in common with any other current Chevrolet or Corvette on the market. Since its introduction 8 years ago, it's developed quite the following. It did what other Corvettes couldn't do: reduce the average age of its buyer. GM has something there, and I see them investing in the car. They'd better not mess that up.   We've successfully derailed Grumpy's thread again, but I think this one is meant to be more of a random thought thread so a little wandering is probably OK.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      2027 GMC Sierra: Official Discussion

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Sliding doors ftw   Also, Sienna ftw as well.  The in-laws got a 2024-2025 recently when their 2019 sienna was totaled due to a deer back in June.  They've been getting 38-40mpg on the 65mph highway they live on.
    • xdieselmechanic
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By xdieselmechanic · Posted

      Forgot to mention that this started after changing the oil I use mobile 1 full syn with mobile one filter but I did add pro lube additive and was the first time doing so and is making me wonder just can't see why that would matter
    • xdieselmechanic
      07 yukon xl 6.2 stalls at hot idle and wont restart

      By xdieselmechanic · Posted

      I apologize for long post put going to try to explain everything. Parts replaced so far: Cam sensor Crank sensor Cam phaser valve Cam phaser solenoid Fuel pump Maf 1 injector Pcm Pdm   So about 2 weeks ago coming off the highway my 2007 yukon xl with the 6.2 stalled and would restart. Had unit towed back to house and I messed around with relays and unit started. Drove it the next day and same thing. Had it towed again. Scanned unit and had code p0300 with misfire data showing mainly cylinder 7 but I know that won't cause a no start. Measure fuel pressure and found only 42 psi replaced pump to have unit stall again and not restart. This time I stayed on back roads and just waited for it to restart about 30 to 60 min. During this time I found I have no injector pulse but have good power at injectors. Started unplugging 1 injector at a time and found when unplugging cylinder 7 pulse came back so i changed injecto and same issue. Turns out unit just happen to ready to start at that time. Scanned into unit and found no reason for the pcm to take away injector pulse so I replaced the pcm and same issue. I figured timing sesnor controlled the injector pulse so I replaced both sensors and while I had the water pump of i replaced the vvt components while i was in there. Read multiple people have luck chaging the maf for this issue so I changed it. Unit still stalls to this day and loses injector pulse on the ground side when it does. Have noticed watching the live data the pcm is request injectors to fire via injector pwm value. I have redone the ground wires at the left bottom of the block knowing this was the ground location for the pcm but still no luck. I am a mechanic by trade but this is having me pull my hair out. If anyone has something to have me check I will gladly im not much of a parts thrower but im about to load the cannon
    • newdude
      auto mechanical driver's door unlock without pressing button? [2026 Silv. 1500 WT 4WD RC SB 2.7L]

      By newdude · Posted

      Actually.  Wait.   I just re-read your original post.  Are you talking from INSIDE the truck you have to hit unlock?  Or from the key fob?  I had assumed from the key fob.   IF you are talking the inside unlock button, I assume you are shifting to park and its not unlocking the doors?  If so, that is changed via the settings page in the radio.  Go to SETTINGS, then VEHICLE and then it should be under LOCKS or DOOR LOCKS or something like that.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...