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Posted
9 minutes ago, customboss said:

Don’t know about that version but I developed this at Cummins and it would. Your tappet pressures aren’t higher than a 15 L Cummins ISX or Big Cam. 
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VAL818289

I've certainly heard of the Premium Blue through the years and being an excellent oil for the diesels but never had reason to go in that direction or at least so I though in the past since we have had such a mix of diesel engine brands, Cummins over the years but also Cat, John Deere and so on. The John Deere dealer was always trying to get me to buy their green oil "literally" but they ever used to offer a 0W-40 so I just kept on using the Delvac

 

The reason why the 0W-30 aspect and not that I require that cold a rating in all the engines I list and some I will admit have not moved in some years, but others do get used and depended on our crappy cold winters, certain vehicles as well as at least one of the gas tractors that is part of my snow plowing tools. Diesels doing the same job as per snow plowing, I have used Mobil Delvac 0W-40 in them for years now and I know I could use it in these older gas engines but the 0W-30 definitely has better flow/cranking over the 0W-40. The Jeeps are my brother toys and I don't want to go recommending an oil to him that would damage the engines. 

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Posted (edited)
26 minutes ago, Chuck FB said:

I've certainly heard of the Premium Blue through the years and being an excellent oil for the diesels but never had reason to go in that direction or at least so I though in the past since we have had such a mix of diesel engine brands, Cummins over the years but also Cat, John Deere and so on. The John Deere dealer was always trying to get me to buy their green oil "literally" but they ever used to offer a 0W-40 so I just kept on using the Delvac

 

The reason why the 0W-30 aspect and not that I require that cold a rating in all the engines I list and some I will admit have not moved in some years, but others do get used and depended on our crappy cold winters, certain vehicles as well as at least one of the gas tractors that is part of my snow plowing tools. Diesels doing the same job as per snow plowing, I have used Mobil Delvac 0W-40 in them for years now and I know I could use it in these older gas engines but the 0W-30 definitely has better flow/cranking over the 0W-40. The Jeeps are my brother toys and I don't want to go recommending an oil to him that would damage the engines. 

ONE SOLUTION  not just Premium Blue. We developed it for UPS because the cheapass’s wanted to run HD diesel oil in their fleet that was mixed Nat Gas and HD diesels. Causing terrible problems with aftertreatment and deposits in both engines. 
 

IMG_0461.thumb.jpeg.f663e56c5eff567913eba72d43c60ad2.jpeg

Edited by customboss
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Posted
2 minutes ago, customboss said:

ONE SOLUTION  not just Premium Blue. We developed it for UPS because the cheapass’s wanted to run HD diesel oil in their fleet that was mixed Nat Gas and HD diesels. Causing terrible problems with aftertreatment and deposits in both engines. 

Certainly no screw ups in the shop that way, one oil for engines so as long as the crack head in the oil change bay didn't put gear oil in the engine ... their golden 😄

 

And speaking of over emissioned engines, my neighbor has a 3.0 Duramax LZ0 and he has been uneasy about the idea of using 0W-20 during the summer pulling his RV trailer and would this oil have a good fit for that engine by any chance. Mind you his truck is still on warranty and that may represent an issue with GM if he did have an engine or emissions related problem. Winter time though he definitely needs a "0" in the engine though. 

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Posted
2 minutes ago, Chuck FB said:

Certainly no screw ups in the shop that way, one oil for engines so as long as the crack head in the oil change bay didn't put gear oil in the engine ... their golden 😄

 

And speaking of over emissioned engines, my neighbor has a 3.0 Duramax LZ0 and he has been uneasy about the idea of using 0W-20 during the summer pulling his RV trailer and would this oil have a good fit for that engine by any chance. Mind you his truck is still on warranty and that may represent an issue with GM if he did have an engine or emissions related problem. Winter time though he definitely needs a "0" in the engine though. 

He’ll void warranty if he uses anything else. I prefer Amsoil 0w20 for that application. 
 

IMG_0462.thumb.jpeg.b34b4e4ef4bfd171152c25256367f9c8.jpeg

 

Friend here runs it year round in Colorado and Texas and tows. Amsoil diesel 0w20 does better than XOM made Dexos D 0w20 in his. Lower cost too. 
 

 

 

 

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Posted

Spit-balling here. If one removes half the ZDP and triples the OCI do I have more or less EFFECTIVE anti-wear? 

 

I provided a links from a ZDP supplier and a study weeks ago that explained how the changes in alcohols used in the production of ZDP's made less last longer by making the LESS EFFECTIVE to meet goals not in concert with wear abatement. What has been the industry response? ROLLER CAMS. They don't need as much by allot. And what permits the limits cam profiles? FORCED INDUCTION. 

 

I see no one reads these papers or if they do and the answer isn't in alignment with ones wishes.....

 

Do ya know enough not to pee in the crankcase as a lubricant? Why? What's missing in pee that it is such a bad lubricant? 

 

🤔

Yea, you already know the answer. 

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Posted
15 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Spit-balling here. If one removes half the ZDP and triples the OCI do I have more or less EFFECTIVE anti-wear? 

 

I provided a links from a ZDP supplier and a study weeks ago that explained how the changes in alcohols used in the production of ZDP's made less last longer by making the LESS EFFECTIVE to meet goals not in concert with wear abatement. What has been the industry response? ROLLER CAMS. They don't need as much by allot. And what permits the limits cam profiles? FORCED INDUCTION. 

 

I see no one reads these papers or if they do and the answer isn't in alignment with ones wishes.....

 

Do ya know enough not to pee in the crankcase as a lubricant? Why? What's missing in pee that it is such a bad lubricant? 

 

🤔

Yea, you already know the answer. 

Ok Genius what’s the efficacy of the latest ZDTP? What other additives complement ZDTP? You keep mentioning straight ZDDP. MOST NOW ARE TERTIARY ESTERS. 

 

You are off your rocker. Again and spit balling is not something I’d share publicly. Peeing either. 🤣

Posted
46 minutes ago, OnTheReel said:

Your neighbor is right to be uneasy. I’d run the 5w30 Amsoil DexosD and let GM try to fight it if anything ever happened. Those babymax’s run hotter than hell AND typically have a ton of fuel dilution. No business using an 0w20.

 

https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/lm2-engine-oil-temp.1030787/

 

You and Grumpy need to get a room or silo

to confirm Your Internet educated bias with? 
You a SPITBALLER too? 
 

😝🤣

Posted
3 hours ago, customboss said:

ONE SOLUTION  not just Premium Blue. We developed it for UPS because the cheapass’s wanted to run HD diesel oil in their fleet that was mixed Nat Gas and HD diesels. Causing terrible problems with aftertreatment and deposits in both engines. 
 

IMG_0461.thumb.jpeg.f663e56c5eff567913eba72d43c60ad2.jpeg

ONE SOLUTION backward compatibility to CI4 

DTP (ZDDP) levels in typical API CI-4 diesel engine oils are generally in the range of 1100–1400 ppm, with many formulations close to 1100–1200 ppm of ZDDP or zinc. For example, popular 15W-40 CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oils such as Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, and similar products usually contain about 1100–1200 ppm ZDDP, with zinc content around 1170–1450 ppm and phosphorus typically near 1100–1200 ppm.[camoils +2]
This is higher than current CK-4 or SN/SN Plus diesel/gasoline oils, which are typically under 900 ppm due to newer emissions regulations. These higher ZDTP levels in CI-4 oils are specifically designed to provide robust wear protection for older diesel engines, especially those with flat-tappet cams or high-load valve trains.[autorestomod +3]

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Posted
Just now, customboss said:

ONE SOLUTION backward compatibility to CI4 

DTP (ZDDP) levels in typical API CI-4 diesel engine oils are generally in the range of 1100–1400 ppm, with many formulations close to 1100–1200 ppm of ZDDP or zinc. For example, popular 15W-40 CI-4 or CI-4 Plus rated oils such as Shell Rotella T, Mobil Delvac 1300 Super, and similar products usually contain about 1100–1200 ppm ZDDP, with zinc content around 1170–1450 ppm and phosphorus typically near 1100–1200 ppm.[camoils +2]
This is higher than current CK-4 or SN/SN Plus diesel/gasoline oils, which are typically under 900 ppm due to newer emissions regulations. These higher ZDTP levels in CI-4 oils are specifically designed to provide robust wear protection for older diesel engines, especially those with flat-tappet cams or high-load valve trains.[autorestomod +3]

BUT WAIT BOB THERES MORE. ZDDP IN CH4 was what? 
API CH-4 engine oils generally have ZDDP (zinc dialkyldithiophosphate) levels around 1100 to 1600 ppm depending on the specific formulation and brand. For example:
•    Some CH-4 rated oils have ZDDP levels at about 1200 to 1300 ppm.
•    Higher-performance or racing synthetic oils with CH-4 rating may have ZDDP levels up to around 1500 ppm or more.
•    Conventional CH-4 oils from brands like Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac 1300, and Shell Rotella T often show zinc ranges from approximately 1170 to 1600 ppm, with phosphorus levels close to that too, reflecting the active ZDDP component.[autorestomod +1]
This level of ZDDP is typical for CH-4 oils to protect diesel engines from wear, especially those with flat-tappet cams or high-stress conditions prior to newer API standards that reduced ZDDP for emissions compatibility.[pelicanparts +1]

OH MY BOYS how did we do that with 900

ppm of zinc and phos ???????  
 

Active effective additive and magic!!! 
 

😂 

Posted
12 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Spit-balling here. If one removes half the ZDP and triples the OCI do I have more or less EFFECTIVE anti-wear? 

 

I provided a links from a ZDP supplier and a study weeks ago that explained how the changes in alcohols used in the production of ZDP's made less last longer by making the LESS EFFECTIVE to meet goals not in concert with wear abatement. What has been the industry response? ROLLER CAMS. They don't need as much by allot. And what permits the limits cam profiles? FORCED INDUCTION. 

 

I see no one reads these papers or if they do and the answer isn't in alignment with ones wishes.....

 

Do ya know enough not to pee in the crankcase as a lubricant? Why? What's missing in pee that it is such a bad lubricant? 

 

🤔

Yea, you already know the answer. 

Lets see, if I were on the price is right I'd choose door C, planned obsolescence guaranteed. 

 

Pee in the crank case, it contains water which is no good at all but the uric acid damages steel, aluminum, brass, copper etc. I doubt taking a whole bottle of zinc vitamin supplement will boost the zinc enough to help the cam wear or neutralize the acid, I don't think I will test out that theory as it says take ONE per day on the bottle ( so more is not better in that instance ). Ok so I have a sick or sad sense of humor ! 

 

I will have to go back and see if I caught that study, if I did I may very well have interpreted as the oils formulation didn't require the heavy dose of zdp due to less of competing additives.  

 

That reminds me I read some years ago about how they discovered that the air frame of the Lockheed C 130 was being compromised because of the rudimentary bathroom/urinal setup as it wasn't containing the splash over and after all its in an aircraft flying in sub optimal conditions. They discovered the urine was finding its way where it was not intended to go,  into the air frame corroding the aluminum. 

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Posted
1 hour ago, customboss said:

You and Grumpy need to get a room or silo

to confirm Your Internet educated bias with? 
You a SPITBALLER too? 
 

😝🤣

No, figured it was common sense to not run an oil with a 2.6-2.7 HTHS in a diesel that makes 300hp/500tq, tows heavy, dumps fuel in the crankcase with regens, and regularly sees oil temps over 250*.

 

BTW, your first comment about warranty…even the Amsoil 0w20 operates in a grey area without any approvals, OEM or otherwise. So if someone was inclined to go down that road, they might as well go all the way…

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Posted
1 hour ago, Chuck FB said:

I will have to go back and see if I caught that study, if I did I may very well have interpreted as the oils formulation didn't require the heavy dose of zdp due to less of competing additives.

 

Gallon of paint says it covers any color in one coat at an application rate of 400 square feet per gallon. Sales guy who used to make paint, test paint and QC paint, points this out to you. 

 

Your room is twice that size and as you have but $100 to your name and paint is $60 a gallon you go looking for a solution. You're covering cardinal red with appliance white.  

 

Some ex paint formulator says he's got 50 years in this business and knows you can do it on two quarts. All you have to do is add more water to make two gallons. Tells you studies say you don't need that much solid content to cover that color. and Titanium Oxide has come along way in 50 years. 😉 

 

Guy in the isle says, "Listen to the salesman. I did and two quart wont do the job."

 

Ex-formulator tells you both these guys are hacks cause all they know is what they read on the can and looked up on the manufactures site. (He discounts there education and experiences). 

 

Question. What does your common sense tell you? 

 

 

 

 

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Posted
24 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Gallon of paint says it covers any color in one coat at an application rate of 400 square feet per gallon. Sales guy who used to make paint, test paint and QC paint, points this out to you. 

 

Your room is twice that size and as you have but $100 to your name and paint is $60 a gallon you go looking for a solution. You're covering cardinal red with appliance white.  

 

Some ex paint formulator says he's got 50 years in this business and knows you can do it on two quarts. All you have to do is add more water to make two gallons. Tells you studies say you don't need that much solid content to cover that color. and Titanium Oxide has come along way in 50 years. 😉 

 

Guy in the isle says, "Listen to the salesman. I did and two quart wont do the job."

 

Ex-formulator tells you both these guys are hacks cause all they know is what they read on the can and looked up on the manufactures site. (He discounts there education and experiences). 

 

Question. What does your common sense tell you? 

 

 

 

 

Honestly .. you really want to know, dam I have to get up from my desk reading and go and piss like a race horse because if not, bad things will happen right where I'm sitting 🤣

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