Jump to content

Need ADD A LEAF help asap.

DENALIHD66
 Share

Recommended Posts

DENALIHD66 Enthusiast

DENALIHD66

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a 2015 GMC Sierra 1500 6.2L crew cab short bed 4x4 with Max Trailer package. 
 

I originally ordered the Zone add a leaf from American trucks. Their website showed compatible. Tear the rear end apart only to find out the add a leafs don’t have the alignment pins. They only have a single hole for the center bolt. 
 

American trucks exchanged them and I ordered the ReadyLift add a leaf springs that showed 2 holes in the center of the leaf. 
 

They arrived today and they too only have 1 center hole. The sticker on them said Deaver.  Not sure if that’s who readylift uses or what?

 

Either way; I need to figure out what add a leaf will fit my truck. It doesn’t seem like the max trailer package has a different option than regular, but I need one that has the alignment pin that’ll fit between my existing leafs. 
 

I will use it for heavy hauling and towing so please do not respond with “just go with a block.”

 

Also the ads on this website have gotten insanely obnoxious. This is my third attempt typing this post. Ads have completely interrupted me trying to type this post out every time. 

Edited by DENALIHD66
mikeyk101 Senior Enthusiast

mikeyk101

Posted
Posted

Sorry, I can't help with question on springs but...

I use Brave as my main browser and it blocks pretty much all the ads not only on this site but pretty much all the sites I use. You might give it a try.

DENALIHD66 Enthusiast

DENALIHD66

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I found a video online and that alignment pin is simply a rolled piece of steel. And it says to simply pound it out and discard it. So the provided clips take care of the alignment on their own then?

 

I see tons of posts on these forums of people loving their Zone add a leafs and zero posts about this issue. So I’m not understanding if this is a Max Trailer spring pack issue only, or if others just discarded the alignment pin altogether 

MikeBMW Senior Enthusiast

MikeBMW

Posted
Posted

I had the Zone add-a-leaf installed by an aftermarket installer.
No issues and added a 1.5" lift, as well.
No more squatting when towing.
I do have the tow package, not max tow package, but it installed without issue, according to the installer.

Buckwild27 Enthusiast

Buckwild27

Posted
Posted
On 4/6/2024 at 1:45 PM, mikeyk101 said:

Sorry, I can't help with question on springs but...

I use Brave as my main browser and it blocks pretty much all the ads not only on this site but pretty much all the sites I use. You might give it a try.

X2 on the Brave browser 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts

  • Member Statistics

    342,947
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Sothpaw27
    Newest Member
    Sothpaw27
    Joined

  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 652 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...