Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2020 Sierra 1500 Denali 6.2

About a week ago I had a strange bunch of error issues, no power steering, running boards going backwards when the door was opened etc. Never tried other features like active cruise control or lane assist.

I thought it was an old battery issue, but found out on this forum that it could be a bad grounding strap -that was what the problem was and it seemed to fix all of the problems. It was the braided one on ps from the frame to the firewall.

Since many on here and on the Corvette forum says to change the battery in 3-5 years to keep from having problems, I decided to change the battery.

Replaced with the correct ac/ delco battery and everything still seemed fine.

But, I just took it on the first highway trip and I have two problems:

1 adaptive cruise control temporarily unavailable and when I try regular cruise I get nothing.

2 lane assist is not working and when I use the switch it does nothing -no message regarding on or off.


I didn’t time how long the cables were off, but I’m thinking that it wasn’t long enough to do a reset ?

Maybe the voltage drops that happened before I replaced the grounding strap, had also goofed up acc and lane assist?

 

Should I take off the battery ground cable for 15 minutes to see if that resets it or is there something else that I should try?

Posted
56 minutes ago, Glava2876 said:

2020 Sierra 1500 Denali 6.2

About a week ago I had a strange bunch of error issues, no power steering, running boards going backwards when the door was opened etc. Never tried other features like active cruise control or lane assist.

I thought it was an old battery issue, but found out on this forum that it could be a bad grounding strap -that was what the problem was and it seemed to fix all of the problems. It was the braided one on ps from the frame to the firewall.

Since many on here and on the Corvette forum says to change the battery in 3-5 years to keep from having problems, I decided to change the battery.

Replaced with the correct ac/ delco battery and everything still seemed fine.

But, I just took it on the first highway trip and I have two problems:

1 adaptive cruise control temporarily unavailable and when I try regular cruise I get nothing.

2 lane assist is not working and when I use the switch it does nothing -no message regarding on or off.


I didn’t time how long the cables were off, but I’m thinking that it wasn’t long enough to do a reset ?

Maybe the voltage drops that happened before I replaced the grounding strap, had also goofed up acc and lane assist?

 

Should I take off the battery ground cable for 15 minutes to see if that resets it or is there something else that I should try?

 

 

Pull the forward collision camera fuse for 15 minutes and put it back in.  See what happens after that.  Fuse F18 in the passenger side dash fuse box.  

  • Like 1
Posted

Tried that and no luck. Thanks for the recommendation!

Anything else I can try or do I have to give in and go to the dealer 😳

Posted

I also tried taking off the negative battery cable, with the headlight switch on, for over 20 minutes and no change.

Posted
3 hours ago, Glava2876 said:

Tried that and no luck. Thanks for the recommendation!

Anything else I can try or do I have to give in and go to the dealer 😳

 

 

Its probably gonna need the camera then if it won't reset.  

Posted
On 8/11/2024 at 2:02 PM, Glava2876 said:

Thanks- guess I go to the dealer

Our team regrets to hear you are facing these concerns with your vehicle and would like to learn more. When you have a moment, please send us an email to [email protected]. Be sure to include your Username and Forum name in the subject line with additional details. We will watch for your email. 

  • Like 1
Posted
20 hours ago, GMCustomerService said:

Our team regrets to hear you are facing these concerns with your vehicle and would like to learn more. When you have a moment, please send us an email to [email protected]. Be sure to include your Username and Forum name in the subject line with additional details. We will watch for your email. 

Thanks, I did send it just a little bit ago!

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Ok, brought it to the dealer and had sensor/ module communication errors. They did a system update and all set!

Total cost just over $200.00 -same day service.

  • 9 months later...
Posted (edited)

2020 Silverado 2500HD, after replacing batteries, lane departure "unavailable", collision avoidance not working.  Dealer relearned camera system but still not working and they can't find any service bulletins related. Looking for ideas.

Edited by Dave Bittel

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...