Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Bottom line, it was easy and I'm glad I did it.

 

For a bit of background... I have a '21 SLT 2500 gas.  I had previously installed the transmission dipstick/tube because... it should have a damn transmission dipstick!  Since I tow more with this truck than my last one, I also wanted to make fluid changes easy, so I wanted a pan with a drain plug..

 

I went with the PML standard capacity pan.  It not only provides a magnetic drain plug, but it also retains the fill-level port of the stock pan, making refills fairly fool-proof. 


There's a ton of videos out there showing the clearance issues with the 6L80 pan and the exhaust cross over on half-tons and Yukon/Suburbans.  Looks like a nightmare to fully remove the pan just to do a filter change on those.  I can report on the '21 HDs there is plenty of room to remove the old pan and install the cast aluminum version.

 

I put the truck on ramps, and vacuumed out as much fluid as I could get with my extractor... about 4 qts.  Unbolting the pan resulted in no additional fluid spilling out all over the place.  There was still 1-2 qts in the bottom of the pan.  At 45k miles, there was an expected amount of fine metal particles on the magnet, nothing out of the ordinary.  Fluid was somewhat darkened but not burnt.

 

I cleaned and reused the gasket, bolted the new pan on, torqued it down.  Easy access to all bolts with a 1/4" torque wrench and allen socket.  The PML pan comes with new, longer allen head screws to accommodate the much thicker flange.

 

Poured 5 qts of Delco dex VI in via the transmission dipstick tube... which should have been there from the factory.  Backed it off the ramps and drove around the block to get the temp up to ~110F.  While idling I removed the check plug and poured in another half quart... no leakage.  Added the rest of the 6th qt and saw it running out.  When it slowed to a drip, put the check plug and called it done.

 

It's not the cheapest mod there is, but it's a high quality part, easy install, and easy future maintenance made it worth it for me.

  • Like 5
Posted
On 1/28/2025 at 7:30 AM, mrjulian416 said:

Bottom line, it was easy and I'm glad I did it.

 

For a bit of background... I have a '21 SLT 2500 gas.  I had previously installed the transmission dipstick/tube because... it should have a damn transmission dipstick!  Since I tow more with this truck than my last one, I also wanted to make fluid changes easy, so I wanted a pan with a drain plug..

 

I went with the PML standard capacity pan.  It not only provides a magnetic drain plug, but it also retains the fill-level port of the stock pan, making refills fairly fool-proof. 


There's a ton of videos out there showing the clearance issues with the 6L80 pan and the exhaust cross over on half-tons and Yukon/Suburbans.  Looks like a nightmare to fully remove the pan just to do a filter change on those.  I can report on the '21 HDs there is plenty of room to remove the old pan and install the cast aluminum version.

 

I put the truck on ramps, and vacuumed out as much fluid as I could get with my extractor... about 4 qts.  Unbolting the pan resulted in no additional fluid spilling out all over the place.  There was still 1-2 qts in the bottom of the pan.  At 45k miles, there was an expected amount of fine metal particles on the magnet, nothing out of the ordinary.  Fluid was somewhat darkened but not burnt.

 

I cleaned and reused the gasket, bolted the new pan on, torqued it down.  Easy access to all bolts with a 1/4" torque wrench and allen socket.  The PML pan comes with new, longer allen head screws to accommodate the much thicker flange.

 

Poured 5 qts of Delco dex VI in via the transmission dipstick tube... which should have been there from the factory.  Backed it off the ramps and drove around the block to get the temp up to ~110F.  While idling I removed the check plug and poured in another half quart... no leakage.  Added the rest of the 6th qt and saw it running out.  When it slowed to a drip, put the check plug and called it done.

 

It's not the cheapest mod there is, but it's a high quality part, easy install, and easy future maintenance made it worth it for me.

Thanks for the report. I have a 2021 gas 3500 and have been considering this. One question I haven’t been able to get a clear answer about is the impact resistance of the aluminum pan if you hit a rock. Steel would dent, but will the aluminum one fracture and leak the fluid out?  Did you look at this question?  Thanks. 

Posted

The PML pan is about 1/2" thick.  I don't think a rock strike is a big concern. Bottoming out on boulder would be a problem, however, for any oil pan whether stamped steel or cast aluminum.

 

I did not choose the high-capacity version because seeing that thing hang down just didn't seem like a good idea if there's any chance of going off road.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
On 2/3/2025 at 8:22 AM, mrjulian416 said:

The PML pan is about 1/2" thick.  I don't think a rock strike is a big concern. Bottoming out on boulder would be a problem, however, for any oil pan whether stamped steel or cast aluminum.

 

I did not choose the high-capacity version because seeing that thing hang down just didn't seem like a good idea if there's any chance of going off road.

Was there a filter in the pan or a strainer or anything?

 

so just extracting the fluid will leave a quart or so in the pan? I suppose a guy could just do it a little more often with just the extractor and not take the pan off and call it good? 

Posted

There is the typical transmission filter which is not part of the pan.  Not sure what you mean by a filter or strainer other than that.

 

Both the stock and extra capacity PML pans work with the OEM (or equivalent) filter.  I changed the filter while I had the pan off.  Went with the Delco OEM.

 

You could certainly use an extractor to do a fluid change.  But I would suggest dropping the pan at least once in the first ~50k to change the filter.  With the wear metals in there from the break-in, I feel a new filter is worth the effort.  While running, the magnet doesn't catch everything so the filter is doing its job.  Best to get a clean filter in there once most of the initial wear in is done.  IMHO

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, mrjulian416 said:

There is the typical transmission filter which is not part of the pan.  Not sure what you mean by a filter or strainer other than that.

 

Both the stock and extra capacity PML pans work with the OEM (or equivalent) filter.  I changed the filter while I had the pan off.  Went with the Delco OEM.

 

You could certainly use an extractor to do a fluid change.  But I would suggest dropping the pan at least once in the first ~50k to change the filter.  With the wear metals in there from the break-in, I feel a new filter is worth the effort.  While running, the magnet doesn't catch everything so the filter is doing its job.  Best to get a clean filter in there once most of the initial wear in is done.  IMHO

I just meant some transmissions don’t have a replaceable filter. Yeah I will drop it to replace the filter eventually but it’s gonna be awhile because I’m only at 14,800mi currently. 
 

that pan you bought looks nice. 375 is spendy, wish it was less. 

Edited by Pryme

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...