Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone, I have a 2008 and 2009 Avalanche LTs. (I know it’s not a Silverado but I really need some help here) my main issue is my 2008 has a built 5.3 and a built 4l60e. My 2009 is rust free and I’m currently installing my 9 inch lift on it. The only issue is the 6 speed transmission is junk, it has no gears besides park. Is it possible to swap the 2008 motor and 4L60e into my 2009? I’m hoping it’s going to be as simple as a normal motor swap but I’m not sure what all it entails. I’m sure the cluster is different but besides that can I just transfer my ECM and tcm over? Or will I need to do some programming to my bcm and such. Thank you in advance!

Posted

Motor will be straightforward, the transmission won't be, because there are a bunch of other stuff that need to be changed, like the steering column and instrument panel.  The IP in particular probably will be a problem to get working right.  And with gmt900's, it's not just swapping computers like you could with gmt800's, a lot more stuff is vin-locked, and there can be more variations in other parts, such as abs controllers for example.

  • Like 1
Posted

The 6 speedo is a far better transmission than the 4L60e when it comes to lifts and big tires too.

 

The long gear changes of the 4 speed will suck and you need less rear gear with a 6 speed because of the mechanical advantage the 2 extra gears give you.

  • Like 1
Posted
44 minutes ago, CamGTP said:

The 6 speedo is a far better transmission than the 4L60e when it comes to lifts and big tires too.

 

The long gear changes of the 4 speed will suck and you need less rear gear with a 6 speed because of the mechanical advantage the 2 extra gears give you.

So your thinking I should have the 6 speed rebuilt and call it good?

  • Like 2
Posted
5 hours ago, davester said:

Yes, that would definitely be the way to go, IMHO.

I called a few transmission shops and none of them really wanted to work on 6L80s, that’s why I wanted to swap my 4l60 in

Posted
On 3/4/2025 at 9:47 PM, davester said:

That's nuts.  Do they just not work on vehicles newer than 10 years old?j

Well from the 5 shops I’ve called in my area (100 mile radius from my house) all of them told me the 6l80 is junk and to just keep my 4 speed. My 4 speed was rebuilt buy my local motorsports shop and they didn’t really want to do it but they threw all billet parts in that’s why I didn’t want to keep the 6l80

Posted

The 6L80 is a far better transmission, those transmission shops just don't like doing the work. The only downfall of the transmission is the stock torque converter, once that is replaced, they are really good transmissions.

 

I also don't really trust those shops if the first thing out of their mouth is that the 6L80e is junk, why would they not want to take someones money for a rebuild that they can do. That just tells me they are lazy and not worth my time if they don't want to fix the thing that needs repairs.

 

At this point I'd be ordering a transmission online from someone, lots of places do it. Then all you'd need is the transmission programmed after you install it.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 hours ago, CamGTP said:

The 6L80 is a far better transmission, those transmission shops just don't like doing the work. The only downfall of the transmission is the stock torque converter, once that is replaced, they are really good transmissions.

 

I also don't really trust those shops if the first thing out of their mouth is that the 6L80e is junk, why would they not want to take someones money for a rebuild that they can do. That just tells me they are lazy and not worth my time if they don't want to fix the thing that needs repairs.

 

At this point I'd be ordering a transmission online from someone, lots of places do it. Then all you'd need is the transmission programmed after you install it.

I was thinking of buying one from oreillys. Like I said though would it be a simple swap to just put my motor and trans out of my 08 truck into the 09? I could definitely keep all the 6l80 parts but I’d really like to utilize my built 4l60 since I already spent the money to have it all gone through.

Posted

The engine transmission swap is simple but that's it.

 

The wiring and programming is your problem. Different wiring harness, different fuse blocks. The 4L60e is a external TCM the 6L80e is an internal TCM. The other modules on the CAN-BUS are technically programmed to match everything with a 2009 truck with a 6 speedo auto. So things like ABS and all that other stuff may not work again because of the calibration mismatch going on.

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, CamGTP said:

The engine transmission swap is simple but that's it.

 

The wiring and programming is your problem. Different wiring harness, different fuse blocks. The 4L60e is a external TCM the 6L80e is an internal TCM. The other modules on the CAN-BUS are technically programmed to match everything with a 2009 truck with a 6 speedo auto. So things like ABS and all that other stuff may not work again because of the calibration mismatch going on.

I’ll try to call my local dealership and see what they can do for me. If they can’t do anything I’ll cave and pick up a 6 speed, the nice part is I have a whole donor truck so it’s not like I’ll have to pick up many parts in terms of any wiring harnesses

Posted

You'd be much better off rebuilding the 6L80 or buying a rebuilt upgraded one.  

 

4L60 is ran off an external TCM, 6L80 is an internal TCM so the truck would be wired differently between the two and would require some big efforts to swap it to the 4L.  

 

  • Like 1
Posted

In order to downgrade your truck to a 4L60 you would have to swap in new wiring harnesses and multiple programming operations and a new cluster, shifter, cross member, etc.  

 

Less expensive and aggravating to just overhaul the 6L80.

Posted
On 3/4/2025 at 5:16 AM, davester said:

Yes, that would definitely be the way to go, IMHO.

 

Seems like we're getting this question every week now Dave!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,913
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Smitty462
    Newest Member
    Smitty462
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 0 Anonymous, 576 Guests (See full list)

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...