Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Please share some insight into my recent oil analysis. Oil type is unknown, was last changed at the dealership before I purchased the truck. Over 79,000 miles on the motor, 4,200 miles on oil when sampled/changed.

 

No current issues, oil burning minimal. Just wanted to get a baseline.

20 SIERRA 1500-250510-edit (1).pdf

Posted

Total wear metals come in at 6.9 ppm/K miles. Iron alone is almost 5 ppm/K miles. 

Base on the Universal Averages 6.4 ppm/K total wear metals and 3.1 ppm/K iron are their benchmarks. 

What does that indicate to you? 

 

Some critical information is missing. TBN and Oxidation and any VOA data so we know what is background and what is wear.

 

Hint: With the recent increases in Blackstone Labs pricing AND lack of critical information AND crackle test for water and flash cups for fuel; you will find @Black02Silverado can set you up with a cheaper and more complete and accurate test. 

 

Outside the fact that this motor is running close to Universal Averages doesn't mean meaningful improvement can't be made in wear. Your past warranty, yes? No? If so believe GM. Start using a decent 0W40 or at least a 3.5 minimum HTHS 5W30 (ACEA C3). 

 

Will it fall apart if you don't? No. It will just live longer if you do. How long is your choice. And find an oil with some solvency or that little bit of oil consumption will become something other... Valvoline Restore and Protect 5W30 would be a good fist shot even though it isn't a polar oil. It does it's cleaning by other chemical means and while not 3.5 it is 3.3 HTHS which is a vast improvement over the 2.6 HTHS oil now in it. 4K OCI without TBN seems safe. 

 

Now let the rain begin. :crackup:That's my story and I'm sticking to it. 😬

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2
Posted (edited)

Thanks @Grumpy Bear. That iron ppm is exactly why I posted. I'll look deeper into which oil (0w40 or 5w30) and brand will be my next move. I don't know what HTHS is, but I'll go do my own research on that.. Who knows what oil the dealership would have used that was in it previously.. 

 

Interested to learn more about the analysis @Black02Silverado offers.

Edited by BainMan
  • Like 1
Posted
8 hours ago, BainMan said:

Thanks @Grumpy Bear. That iron ppm is exactly why I posted. I'll look deeper into which oil (0w40 or 5w30) and brand will be my next move. I don't know what HTHS is, but I'll go do my own research on that.. Who knows what oil the dealership would have used that was in it previously.. 

 

Interested to learn more about the analysis @Black02Silverado offers.

I can get you Oil Analizers used oil kits. The best price is to be a Preferred Customer. I can get you set up. I just need your name,address,email address and phone number. You can send it in a PM. 

Posted
12 hours ago, BainMan said:

Please share some insight into my recent oil analysis. Oil type is unknown, was last changed at the dealership before I purchased the truck. Over 79,000 miles on the motor, 4,200 miles on oil when sampled/changed.

 

No current issues, oil burning minimal. Just wanted to get a baseline.

20 SIERRA 1500-250510-edit (1).pdf 18.38 kB · 18 downloads

 

 

Some things to keep in mind. 1.) And average is just that. When they give you one there are motors below and above that nominal value. 2.) Each motor platform and even state of factory tune can have a large impact on the actual values. Not every power cylinder is laid out the same. Ring choice, bore hardness and material type, etc. This may be good for that motor with that oil. Not alarming. But you MAY be able to improve those results. 

Posted
On 6/10/2025 at 9:41 AM, BainMan said:

Thanks @Grumpy Bear. That iron ppm is exactly why I posted. I'll look deeper into which oil (0w40 or 5w30) and brand will be my next move. I don't know what HTHS is, but I'll go do my own research on that.. Who knows what oil the dealership would have used that was in it previously.. 

 

Interested to learn more about the analysis @Black02Silverado offers.

Bainman, ask Nick, @Black02Silverado about the air leak sucking dust in around your air filter system ( maybe air filter itself ?) from this analysis. No one seems to correlate that to iron wear level. Insolubles in 4200 miles too high. 
I’d correct dust leak and run Valvoline Restore Clean and Protect 0w-20 for an interval. 
 


 

Posted
On 6/10/2025 at 9:41 AM, BainMan said:

Thanks @Grumpy Bear. That iron ppm is exactly why I posted. I'll look deeper into which oil (0w40 or 5w30) and brand will be my next move. I don't know what HTHS is, but I'll go do my own research on that.. Who knows what oil the dealership would have used that was in it previously.. 

 

Interested to learn more about the analysis @Black02Silverado offers.

Drop by here and get a proper interpretation ; 

 

 

Posted

@BainMan Silicon too high and is dirt causing increased iron wear especially for only having 4,200 miles on it. When was the last time the air filter was changed? 
Manganese and potassium are dirt that are knocking off fuel deposits and potassium chloride from salt .

 

With only 4,200 miles the insoldubles shouldn't be what it is and max of 0.2 or less.  What oil filter are you using?
 

Also, what fuel are you using?  Any chance to get E85 and mix it in?  I can run 9 gallons of E85 to a tank and not throw any check engine light codes.  Any higher and I get running lean on both banks.  It runs so much better using E85 like that. It also helps burn cleaner and has higher octane.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • 7 months later...
Posted
On 6/13/2025 at 8:30 AM, Black02Silverado said:

@BainMan Silicon too high and is dirt causing increased iron wear especially for only having 4,200 miles on it. When was the last time the air filter was changed? 
Manganese and potassium are dirt that are knocking off fuel deposits and potassium chloride from salt .

 

With only 4,200 miles the insoldubles shouldn't be what it is and max of 0.2 or less.  What oil filter are you using?
 

Also, what fuel are you using?  Any chance to get E85 and mix it in?  I can run 9 gallons of E85 to a tank and not throw any check engine light codes.  Any higher and I get running lean on both banks.  It runs so much better using E85 like that. It also helps burn cleaner and has higher octane.  

Somehow I missed your reply (a long time ago). Running Shell 93, but get the occasional Sam's Club 91 when I don't have time to make it across the river to the Shell. I've never considered mixing in E85.. Do you fill the rest of the tank with premium or is 89 good when mixing E85? 

 

Air filter looked clean after purchasing the truck, so I have not changed it.. I took it out and combed through looking for debris. It looked like the dealership changed it, or it was recently changed prior to them getting it.  I'll add it to the list though, I don't like not knowing how many miles are on it..  

 

Oil filter - Purolator PL22500 with Mobil 1 0w-20 High Mileage. 

 

I'm 3,000 miles into this oil change, may consider getting it analyzed again at 4,000... 

 

Posted
9 hours ago, BainMan said:

Somehow I missed your reply (a long time ago). Running Shell 93, but get the occasional Sam's Club 91 when I don't have time to make it across the river to the Shell. I've never considered mixing in E85.. Do you fill the rest of the tank with premium or is 89 good when mixing E85? 

 

Air filter looked clean after purchasing the truck, so I have not changed it.. I took it out and combed through looking for debris. It looked like the dealership changed it, or it was recently changed prior to them getting it.  I'll add it to the list though, I don't like not knowing how many miles are on it..  

 

Oil filter - Purolator PL22500 with Mobil 1 0w-20 High Mileage. 

 

I'm 3,000 miles into this oil change, may consider getting it analyzed again at 4,000... 

 

OK, it would be good to see the UOA.  It's not expensive and so I would change out the air filter.

 

As for E85, I put in 9 gallons and then fill up with 93 but 89 would work just as good I would imagine.  The E85 is what boost the octane anyway.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • 87 down as low as $5.14 here... winning!
    • Progress... sort of.   Intake is disassembled, spider is out, fuel lines removed. Used a torch on the stripped screw with the lower intake off, much easier when I've got the intake sitting on my workbench, I made it talk. Walked right out with a pair of vice grips once it was nice and toasty hot.   New parts are piling up on my service cart waiting to be installed. Distributor, temperature sensor, new gaskets, fuel line kit, themostat, water neck.   My new pickle is I don't want to spend $600 on a replacement spider. I'm not sure IT is bad. I'm probably splitting hairs. Or it's $300 to send mine away and another 3 weeks of the truck just sitting. I have half a mind to assemble everything with the old spider to see if I can get away with just replacing the fuel pressure regulator to be safe. The obvious issue was the gushing high pressure fuel line which will be replaced. Getting to the spider really isn't that hard, and now I know what I'm doing , swapping it would be a breeze should it absolutely need one. Stupid, or smart?   The part that gives me pause is replacing the distributor. Well, it's already out. And I didn't mark it, whoopsie! Engine was at TDC when I removed it, I know that, so upon correct reinstall the metal tip on the rotor should point to the TDC mark on the distributor because that's where it was pointing on the old distributor. Worst case I'm a tooth off and have to re-stab it.   But then, what? I assume the truck will start. It doesn't appear the timing can be set. Here's the problem: These distributors can't be rotated but a degree or two, by design. What I read is Cam ****** needs to be -2 to +2 degrees, ideally at 0 (and checked/set above 1000 rpm). There should be enough wiggle to get that properly set, but checking the reported value is another potential issue. My Actron 9185 scanner says it supports enhanced GM PIDs and Cam ****** is one of them but it's unclear that I'll be able to correctly see it over OBD 1.5. I can see why people end up junking these things with life left in them. They're an absolute nightmare with tweener-year diagnostics/electronics and unobtanium parts.   Fingers crossed it starts and idles nicely. There can be hope, right? I'ma buy a lottery ticket the same day just in case.   Next steps..DO IT. I have not installed an intake before so I've been reading and watching a lot. Some say NO RTV except on china walls, some say DO RTV on water ports but not fuel/air intake. 1/4 or 3/8 bead on China walls? I think my strategy will be, obviously, RTV china walls with overlap on the gasket corners. Chapstick-style RTV the water ports. Leave intake ports dry. The only set of intake gaskets I could find locally are Edelbrock performance gaskets (uh...for an asthmatic 190hp V6? LOL) so we'll see how they do.   #NoToolLeftBehind. It took an hour, but my recovery mission for my deep 10mm socket was successful. It had rolled down the bellhousing and wedged itself between what I think are the fuel lines? I couldn't see it at all, but with a junk antenna I had laying around, I blindly went poking/sweeping for it, heard it clink, raised the truck, and caught a sliver glimpse of chrome with a flashlight way up there in Narnia. I had pushed it farther along the lines holding it captive, but within access of severely improvised tools, poking and cursing at it to finally knock it free to where I could get a fingertip on it to bring it home.    Not much to see.      
    • Thats crazy considering im right next door (Indiana)
    • For a limited time, retail and commercial accounts receive an AMSOIL Vinyl Tool Tray with their order of $500 or more when they use code TRAY726 at checkout. The promotion runs through July 21, 2026.   Order at https://syntheticadvantage.com   Want to use AMSOIL in your business or sell at your store, apply here.  https://www.amsoil.com/business-opportunities/?zo=521390  
    • It wouldn’t have happened if the government hadn’t mandated outrageous fuel mileage standards. It does very little for the consumer. It adds cost. Back during Covid there was a chip shortage. They gave a rebate for your truck if it didn’t have the chip to turn on cylinder deactivation. It was 50$ because at best you may see 1/2 a mile increase per gallon. Splitting hairs each fuel mileage trick wasn’t mandated. The government doesn’t do the engineering work and say use this until it’s already in use and they like it. The fuel mileage was mandated. And those add ons the results. There’s a mandate and they are the results.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...