Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Hey all, have a 2024 gmc 2500hd doublecab with 6.6l Gas 4x4 and currently towing a 9000 pound, 35' Rockwood TT with No Problems. 

We are looking at a 37' Grand Design fifthwheel with 11,000 pounds dry weight, and 14,000 pounds gvwr.

Mainly Camping in Northern Michigan, but wondering if the 2500hd 6.6l gas is enough if I take trips to Alabama?

Thank You,

Later

 

Edited by James Beyer
up
Posted (edited)

I have a 22 gasser with the 5th wheel package and would not hesitate for a second to hook up a 16k lb camper to it, and that's with the 6 speed.  I believe yours is the 10 speed which makes it even more doable.  Just my opinion and COME on down to BAMA!!!  Look up lake Martin campground.  It's like 15 minutes from where we live.  Biloxi has a lot of great places to stay as well right on the ocean.  Only a short drive from Mobile.  Enjoy sir and hit me up if you all stay at Lake Martin.  Beautiful place to camp, heck we put our camper there for a couple weeks at a time while I still work in Dadeville, AL.  Let me know, it would be great to see another forum member and trade notes on our campers and trucks!

 

Dale

Edited by Jettech1
  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Jettech1 said:

I have a 22 gasser with the 5th wheel package and would not hesitate for a second to hook up a 16k lb camper to it, and that's with the 6 speed.  I believe your's is the 10 speed which makes it even more doable.  Just my opinion and COME on down to BAMA!!!  Look up lake Martin campground.  It's like 15 minutes from where we live.  Biloxi has a lot of great places to stay as well right on the ocean.  Only a short drive from Mobile.  Enjoy sir and hit me up if you all stay at Lake Martin.  Beautiful place to camp, heck we put our camper there for a couple weeks at a time while I still work in Dadeville, AL.  Let me know, it would be great to see another forum member and trade notes on our campers and trucks!

 

Dale

Thank You Dale, very good news that this 6.6l gas will be enough.  Yes, you are correct, I have the 10 speed.  Will look up Martin Campground, like new places and new friends.  Looking forward for the future, Later-

  • Like 1
Posted

I thought the tow ratings were in the door jam? I think mine even says for fifth wheel/gooose neck it will do around 18K.

  • Like 1
Posted

The only concern might be the pin weight on that 5th wheel. Some 2500s don't have a very high max pin weight, so that could be the limiting factor. Also, your L8T can handle the overall GVWR, but if you're towing that much very frequently your quality of life (towing) would be much more pleasant with a diesel. Good luck with whatever you choose!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Hey Byrds8, yes my payload is there but not fifthwheel, just didn't want to push it to the max of what it really can do, not GM numbers.

Hey Buck, my payload is 3534, so I should be fine there, we'll at least until my wife starts packing.  No doubt a Diesel would be much better, but 90%+ of my driving is Grandchildren to school and 10 mile trips to town.

Thank You both for your suggestions,

Later-

Edited by James Beyer
add
Posted

Michigan to Alabama is pretty low and flat.  You'll be fine.  If you lived in the west, I'd encourage a trade.  I tow a smaller TT than you do and wish I had the diesel above 6000' elevation or in strong winds.

  • Like 1
Posted

Depending on how often you make the trip I'd say you're right on the edge, and that's me with the mindset that a person should do everything they can to avoid a diesel. 

 

Flipside is if you've got a pile of $, then buy whatever you like. Hell, if I had the cash, I'd have a red badge 6.7 HO powerstroke tomorrow even though I don't tow much over 10k.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank You UWSkier, I was towing this TT with a 1500, max tow, until afm started, and went up 2500hd.  Big difference in towing especially with wind, but not sure on mountains yet.

 

Thank You No F-bdy Bs, lol no money pile here, just planning the future.  Never had a diesel, but lots of friends that do, they love them for towing their fifthwheels.  But, our current routine of small daily miles with Grandchildren is probably not ideal for the diesel engine.

 

Posted

If you have the 5th wheel option on your truck, the gooseneck tow rating and pin weight should be on the sticker.

  • Like 1
Posted

Let me try to clear some things up here because I can see some confusion.  I'm not the God of anything, but I do know my stuff when it comes to towing.  

 

First let's start with payload and tongue weight.  As we know payload is amazingly high on our 2500's especially the gassers that are lighter than the diesels.  So let's say the 2500 gassers have an average payload of 3500lbs, of which most do.  Now that includes everything added to the truck, people, cargo, you name it, everything is added into that payload number.  Tongue weight is also included if you have a hitch pulled Travel trailer. 

 

For example, we have a Grand Design Imagine 2800BH.  We filled it with all of our stuff, including the fridge, I filled the fresh water tank too (55Gallons) because it is forward of the axles then took it to the CAT scales and weighed that beast.  The results were I had 7k on the axles and 1k on the tongue.  Believe it or not my rear helper springs were not even contacting the base pack of springs.  Not bad at all when you have 3500lbs to play with.  

 

Now, let's talk about 5th wheel and pin weight.  10% of the overall weight of what you are towing is the golden rule.  So if your giant ass camper weighs 16k, you are looking at 1600lbs of pin weight that is over the rear axles.  Totally different weight placement when compared to a hitch travel trailer.  Now that 1600lbs reduces your payload by.....1600lbs.  But you still have basically 1900lbs of payload left to play with.  

 

So let's talk about the other basic rule of towing.  Stay within 75% of max capabilities for safety reasons.  So your 1900lbs, for safety reasons becomes 1425.  Not bad at all, actually quite impressive.

 

You can add air bags, timberens, whatever, just remember those items do not increase your overall payload number.  Payload is payload, it's a hard number.  Those items might level out your truck and make it ride better, but they never increase your payload.

 

I really hope this helps others and makes a lot of sense.  Safety is #1.  The rest is enjoy the ride because these HD trucks are friggen amazing!!!

 

One other thing I forgot to add is that I no longer use sway bars for our travel trailer.  To me they are useless and serve little purpose.  Pump your E rated tires up to 75psi, and hopefully your campers have e-rated tires as well.  Pump them up to 75psi too.  Not a problem at all towing.  Sway is minimum and I love not using them.  They really are a pain in the ass.  The 1500 guys have to use them, us HD guys.....throw them away....they are useless.  Just my personal opinion all after towing our camper thousands of miles.

 

Be well and if you have any questions, I might be able to help.

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Thank You rjgvt, I don't have the 5th wheel option on my truck, unfortunately.

 

Jettech1, wow, Thank You for the great explanation of towing TT and 5th wheels payload, much appreciated.

 

 

Edited by James Beyer
dang spell check
  • Like 1
Posted
10 hours ago, James Beyer said:

Thank You rjgvt, I don't have the 5th wheel option on my truck, unfortunately.

 

Jettech1, wow, Thank You for the great explanation of towing TT and 5th wheels payload, much appreciated.

 

 

I'm here to help sir.  Do I know it all....NO....but have I done a lot of reading and real world use...YES!!

  • Thanks 1
Posted (edited)
On 3/20/2026 at 3:21 PM, James Beyer said:

yes my payload is there but not fifthwheel, just didn't want to push it to the max of what it really can do,

 

 

Look again.  Its there.  

 

Gray sticker on the face of the door jamb between the two doors.  Has the VIN, curb weight, payload, conventional tow rating, 5th wheel tow rating, GVWR and GCWR.

 

Here is an example from a different truck of that label:

 

Post your payload stickers! | Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum

Edited by newdude
  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, newdude said:

 

 

Look again.  Its there.  

 

Gray sticker on the face of the door jamb between the two doors.  Has the VIN, curb weight, payload, conventional tow rating, 5th wheel tow rating, GVWR and GCWR.

 

Here is an example from a different truck of that label:

 

Post your payload stickers! | Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra Forum

Hey new dude, mine is different than yours, not sure why

 

 

20260327_121130.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...