Can you help me regain my confidence in my engine? 2019 Yukon 5.3

[KARNUT]

1 minute ago, BlaineBug said:

It would be nice if you retards could stop arguing in MY thread!!!!!

We bicker all the time. It keeps things interesting. And I agree you got your answer.

[Atlas]

3 minutes ago, BlaineBug said:

Stay on topic please, off-topic for reserved specifically for ****** debates.

 

Right...what else do you want to talk about? Your engine died, it was fixed, and you asked how to regain trust in it.

 

Uh, I don't know, buy a Ouija board and ask the old lifters why they failed so early?

 

Take the truck to relationship counseling?

 

What do you want?

[Grumpy Bear]

8 hours ago, newdude said:

It happened though.  That's the whole deal with the L87 engine issue on the T1s.  Manufacturing defects of the cranks and con rods.  Just like Toyota had for a year or two with their 3.4 Turbo in the new Tundra.  Manufacturing defects.  

 

7 minutes ago, newdude said:

We've seen pampered, pop-pop never went over 3000rpm trucks lunch cams in these.  

 

It all matters, right? Can't cure a crap build with the best oil or oil regiment or easiest service. But I'd be preaching to the choir. 

[Grumpy Bear]

On 4/26/2026 at 9:23 AM, BlaineBug said:

Last November 2025 I ended up having to have the camshaft and lifters replaced in my 2019 Yukon 5.3 liter with only 88,000 miles. If I remember correct it was the #5 exhaust lifter that failed. It didn't seem like it was collapsed and from what I remember the roller bearings were OK, but the metal on the roller and the corresponding camshaft lobe were spalled/cracked (I went to the dealership to confirm failure once they had the cylinder heads off). I only heard the typical "tap tap tap" when returning from shopping and stopped driving - although I drove it to the dealer about 20 minutes away rather than having it towed, maybe that was a mistake. This was not a failure that was driven on repeatedly like I occasionally see when inspecting warranty claims.

Anyway, to the tune of $8,800 they replaced the camshaft and lifters, spark plugs, and the oil pump as per my request. I'm currently over 95,000 miles as of today.

I did my first oil change at 5,000 miles after the replacement - maybe that was a bit too late and I should have done it earlier. I cut open the oil filter and found a couple of small metallic shavings/chips within the filter. I went back to the dealership to inquire and I was told that was "probably" normal. I was told that every filter probably has metal in it....nobody ever cuts them open apparently but me. I didn't bring them to filter nor did I take any pictures, nor did I check to see if the metallic particles were magnetic or not. Oops.

I hope everything is OK, but I just have to say that my confidence after such a failure is severely diminished. I'm currently sitting at about 95,000 miles, and Friday two-days ago when returning home from work I believe I heard a bit of pinging/detonation when traveling in the 45-60 mph range, if I ever-so-slightly gave it a bit of throttle input without having the transmission drop down into a lower gear. When I got home, I added two bottles of GumOut fuel injection cleaner. I had just filled up earlier in the day at Sam's Club.

What do you think? I had hopes to keep this vehicle for at least 10-years but I feel as though my camshaft and lifter failure occurred VERY early. I inspect warranty claims on a daily basis and find that most of these lifter-related failures occur after 140,000 miles and beyond. I purchased my 2019 Yukon at Carmax in December 2019 with 34,000 miles on it - yes, that was a lot of miles for the first year, but it was a Hertz rental registered in Missouri. I would have assumed they did their oil changes on time. I found no signs of sludge or varnish. However I drove the vehicle over 50,000 miles without an issue at that point between December 2019 and November 2025.

I was also hoping that the dealership would have been a lot better with communicating with me throughout the rebuild. I left them a lengthy note describing extra add-ons that I wanted them to do, and I was hoping they would have communicated with me on the condition of the camshaft bearings, etcetera. After 3-weeks I got a call that it was ready for me to pick up, and at that point I asked about the add-ons that I left on the one-page printed note. They said, "what things?" Figures...they had to go back in an replace some of the extra things that I had asked about like the TPMS sensors (Over $400 for 2 sensors, ripoff!), oil cooler hoses, coolant hoses, etcetera. I was hoping to have received a discount since everything was already torn down obviously, but of course no one elected to look at my note?

We pay top dollar for minimum effort apparently.  GMC dealership too, not some rinky-****** backyard mechanic shop!

By the way, the only modification I have installed is an oil catch can. I have had that installed since November 2023. I also installed a new OEM water pump last month for peace of mind considering that we'll be headed on a 2,000+ mile round trip road trip in about a week and a half. I'm a bit nervous to say the least.

 

Finding glitter or even pieces isn't normal but it is common. Correct me if I'm wrong @newdude but when a cam/lifter kit fails the motor is not fully torn down, cleaned like a new build would be and reassembled. Those chunks have to go through the pump to get to the filter and they have to get in the pan before the pump can pick them up. Warranty work. 

 

There are many reasons a kit can fail. To low a viscosity is one. To low a AW/EP package is another. But so is poor heat treat of parts. Wrong materials substituted by the vendor. Poor QC methods. Not using an assembly lube. Not allowing time for the cam and roller to 'work harden' but for hamming it on a long tow. Corrosion attack from fuel ingress. Everyone's hand is in that pie. The best you can ever do is be the best as YOUR part of the puzzle. 

 

Your part is how you drive, maintain and the fluids/filters you choose to use. Given todays OEM shared everything business plan I don't think this is a one make and model experience. As @diyer2 often says, "Luck of the draw"

 

Confidence is built by time and experience with that unit. We can't do that for you. I've been where you are and it sucks. But if everyone did their part time will give you what you are looking for. Dizzy crapped on me at 80 K and we have 285K on her now. 

 

 

Edited April 27 by Grumpy Bear

[BlaineBug]

2 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Finding glitter or even pieces isn't normal but it is common. Correct me if I'm wrong @newdude but when a cam/lifter kit fails the motor is not fully torn down, cleaned like a new build would be and reassembled. Those chunks have to go through the pump to get to the filter and they have to get in the pan before the pump can pick them up. Warranty work. 

 

There are many reasons a kit can fail. To low a viscosity is one. To low a AW/EP package is another. But so is poor heat treat of parts. Wrong materials substituted by the vendor. Poor QC methods. Not using an assembly lube. Not allowing time for the cam and roller to 'work harden' but for hamming it on a long tow. Corrosion attack from fuel ingress. Everyone's hand is in that pie. The best you can ever do is be the best as YOUR part of the puzzle. 

 

Your part is how you drive, maintain and the fluids/filters you choose to use. Given todays OEM shared everything business plan I don't think this is a one make and model experience. As @diyer2 often says, "Luck of the draw"

I have not towed at all since the repair.  Let's just say though, the first oil change I performed, I was unpleasantly surprised to find the oil drain plug only finger-tight......not leaking, but when I put the socket on there, it spun immediately

Thanks, GM Tech, for your due diligence during that $8,800 repair!

[Atlas]

Drain plug torque spec on the 5.3 is something like 18 ft-lb. That might feel like finger tight when loosening it with a 15mm socket, considering the threads are pre-lubed.

 

I'd rather have spec-torque for a plug on an aluminum oil pan instead of cranking it down with the wheel gun. But that's just me. Maybe give your tech a break, it's not like he pocketed $8800. But he did do all the work.

[BlaineBug]

3 minutes ago, Atlas said:

Drain plug torque spec on the 5.3 is something like 18 ft-lb. That might feel like finger tight when loosening it with a 15mm socket, considering the threads are pre-lubed.

 

I'd rather have spec-torque for a plug on an aluminum oil pan instead of cranking it down with the wheel gun. But that's just me. Maybe give your tech a break, it's not like he pocketed $8800. But he did do all the work.

It was loose......loose as a goose.

[diyer2]

I would use better oil, Amsoil or Redline. 

[BlaineBug]

Well, what I thought was "detonation" or "pinging" may not be after all.  Driving a 2017 Sierra today with the 6.2L, I heard the exact same sound.  It sounds like a tinny-rattle that occasionally comes and goes when accelerating under load without downshifting...so I suppose that is a bit of relief.  I don't know what it could be, it really doesn't sound like the "squeak" of the exhaust flapper valve.

I was also inspecting a 2021 Tahoe High Country with a Cylinder #1 exhaust lifter/cam failure with a bent push rod only with 80,531 miles on the clock.

Speaking with the Technician, he says that he's never really seen one come back after such a repair, but he did say he recently had one come in that he has yet to teardown.  He said on that particular truck, he replaced the lifters and cam back in January and now it's doing the same thing again and he suspects that the lifter bore may be to blame.  I did recall reading something about some of the lifter bores possibly being misshapen from the factory?

Edited April 29 by BlaineBug

[Grumpy Bear]

2 hours ago, BlaineBug said:

  He said on that particular truck, he replaced the lifters and cam back in January and now it's doing the same thing again and he suspects that the lifter bore may be to blame.  I did recall reading something about some of the lifter bores possibly being misshapen from the factory?

 

Worn oversized to the point they 'leak' off and fail to latch like they should. 

[newdude]

On 4/27/2026 at 5:14 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Finding glitter or even pieces isn't normal but it is common. Correct me if I'm wrong @newdude but when a cam/lifter kit fails the motor is not fully torn down, cleaned like a new build would be and reassembled. Those chunks have to go through the pump to get to the filter and they have to get in the pan before the pump can pick them up. Warranty work. 

 

There are many reasons a kit can fail. To low a viscosity is one. To low a AW/EP package is another. But so is poor heat treat of parts. Wrong materials substituted by the vendor. Poor QC methods. Not using an assembly lube. Not allowing time for the cam and roller to 'work harden' but for hamming it on a long tow. Corrosion attack from fuel ingress. Everyone's hand is in that pie. The best you can ever do is be the best as YOUR part of the puzzle. 

 

Your part is how you drive, maintain and the fluids/filters you choose to use. Given todays OEM shared everything business plan I don't think this is a one make and model experience. As @diyer2 often says, "Luck of the draw"

 

Confidence is built by time and experience with that unit. We can't do that for you. I've been where you are and it sucks. But if everyone did their part time will give you what you are looking for. Dizzy crapped on me at 80 K and we have 285K on her now. 

 

 

 

 

 

Mmmm..depends.  Seen some just get a cam and lifters and have no damage to any bearings before.  Some even have clean oil come out of them (no glitter).  Whether that's because someone changed it for a noise or not, I can't say for sure.  

 

But yea, seen plenty of these just get a cam and lifters tossed in and run no issue afterwards.  No bottom end noise or nothing.