Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
16 minutes ago, chris21 said:

You seem to be struggling with reading comprehension.

 

I HAVE SAID 3 TIMES THAT THE BOTTOM OF THE CROSSHATCH IS A QUART BELOW FULL

 

I have also said that the manual will not call that "1 quart low" because it is not a quart below the acceptable range in answer to asilverblazer saying that he has never seen the bottom of the marking noted as "1 quart low" in a manual. The wording of the manual allowing for an acceptable range would indicate that .00001" above the add mark is ok. Also, because the manual allows a range, a quart below full and a quart below acceptable are two different volumes. Thus the manual will not use the phrasing "1 quart low"

 

Then we agree on the range between marks is 1 quart (for most light duty trucks and cars). Great! Whew! :crackup:

 

I will push back on the ambiguous every time. I can see some cherry looking at the dipstick before a long haul and seeing the level just above the lower mark closing the hood and not giving it a second thought until the next stop or the I-D-10-T error light flashes and parts leave the confines of the engine bay. 

 

How about it Chris, do we top up when we see it at a quarter quart low?, A half quart below full or wait until it doesn't register on the stick? 

🤔

 

That's where asilerblazer is heading and to me, it read like he wouldn't mind taking a few reads with him.   

 

 

Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, Grumpy Bear said:

 

Then we agree on the range between marks is 1 quart (for most light duty trucks and cars). Great! Whew! :crackup:

 

I will push back on the ambiguous every time. I can see some cherry looking at the dipstick before a long haul and seeing the level just above the lower mark closing the hood and not giving it a second thought until the next stop or the I-D-10-T error light flashes and parts leave the confines of the engine bay. 

 

How about it Chris, do we top up when we see it at a quarter quart low?, A half quart below full or wait until it doesn't register on the stick? 

🤔

 

That's where asilerblazer is heading and to me, it read like he wouldn't mind taking a few reads with him.   

 

 

Top yours off when you want. That is your decision. 

 

Different engines can have different markings and recomendations. The LT1 in my boat for instance the dipstick has 8 oz. Markings for a 1.5 qt range(7 dimples 1/4" apart) and 5qt sump it uses 20w-50 race oil and I keep it between the top two marks and change the oil every season or 50 running hrs. My truck has the 1 liter crosshatch and it depends on how soon I am going to be changing the oil how far down the crosshatch I would let it get before adding some. I haven't needed to add oil to my current truck as I haven't seen it below the top quarter of the crosshatch within 4000 mile oil changes. I had a 2002 5.3l that I added a full quart to every 2000-2500 miles that I drove until I sold it with 275,000 miles on it and a 4.8l that I never had to add oil to between changes that I drove until it had 300,000 miles. Every engine and use case is different.

 

I'm sorry the owners manual is somewhat ambiguous I didn't write it.

Edited by chris21
Posted
8 minutes ago, chris21 said:

Top yours off when you want. That is your decision. 

 

Different engines can have different markings and recomendations. The LT1 in my boat for instance the dipstick has 8 oz. Markings for a 1.5 qt range(7 dimples 1/4" apart) and 5qt sump it uses 20w-50 race oil and I keep it between the top two marks and change the oil every season or 50 running hrs. My truck has the 1 liter crosshatch and it depends on how soon I am going to be changing the oil how far down the crosshatch I would let it get before adding some. I haven't needed to add oil to my current truck as I haven't seen it below the top quarter of the crosshatch within 4000 mile oil changes. I had a 2002 5.3l that I added a full quart to every 2000-2500 miles that I drove until I sold it with 275,000 miles on it and a 4.8l that I never had to add oil to between changes that I drove until it had 300,000 miles. Every engine and use case is different.

 

I'm sorry the owners manual is somewhat ambiguous I didn't write it.

Some how I still think he wont get it.

Too many engineering classes does this to you.

Posted (edited)
34 minutes ago, chris21 said:

Top yours off when you want. That is your decision. 

 

Different engines can have different markings and recomendations. The LT1 in my boat for instance the dipstick has 8 oz. Markings for a 1.5 qt range(7 dimples 1/4" apart) and 5qt sump it uses 20w-50 race oil and I keep it between the top two marks and change the oil every season or 50 running hrs. My truck has the 1 liter crosshatch and it depends on how soon I am going to be changing the oil how far down the crosshatch I would let it get before adding some. I haven't needed to add oil to my current truck as I haven't seen it below the top quarter of the crosshatch within 4000 mile oil changes. I had a 2002 5.3l that I added a full quart to every 2000-2500 miles that I drove until I sold it with 275,000 miles on it and a 4.8l that I never had to add oil to between changes that I drove until it had 300,000 miles. Every engine and use case is different.

 

I'm sorry the owners manual is somewhat ambiguous I didn't write it.

 

I know you didn't write the manual. :) 

 

Pepper uses none regardless of OCI which has been as long as 7.5K and as short as 3K. 5 is the usual. 

Daisy, the Buick 3800 uses zero as does the wife's Buick. 

 

Dizzy on the other hand has had its own oil well since the clock rolled 80K. Now at 287K and using a quart in 1200 miles. She had a Paseo that started using about the same time, 80 or 90K that went 300K. Both of those motors we feed shelf synthetics. All the others that don't run Red Line HP or AMSOIL SS. 

 

That oil guzzling Terrain I top off at 4 ounces which is pretty often. As wife's primary I'm more picky that if I were driving it all the time. 

 

Dad started that 'Keep it full even if you never change it", from the first day I was old enough to understand what he was talking about and sir that was early. Like 5. If I wanted to see him I had to be with him and when he was home, he was in the shop working on something with a motor. Army/farm trained. Anyway, I've pulled and read a few dipsticks and know a few as well. I've never felt anything but full was an 'acceptable' practice. Been forced into it a few times but never by choice. 

 

In the seven plus decades I've been breathing, a quart off the FULL mark is down a quart. There was never an acceptable deviation. Not that we didn't run them in between we just didn't go on line to make noise about it. There wasn't any, "On Line" :rollin:

 

 

 

 

Edited by Grumpy Bear
Posted
3 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

How about it Chris, do we top up when we see it at a quarter quart low?, A half quart below full or wait until it doesn't register on the stick? 

🤔

 

That's where asilverblazer is heading and to me, it read like he wouldn't mind taking a few reads with him.

Personally, if it's anywhere on the upper 3/4's of the marked area I'm not adding anything, to avoid the 'risk' of overfilling.

 

If I am close to oil change time, and it's at the bottom of the marked area, I still might not add any. For this to be the case (which it never has) the engine would be consuming an amount of oil that I am no longer worried about the longevity of it.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have never had to add oil to any of my trucks between oil changes since I bought my first new truck in 1988.  I purchased each truck new, did my own break-ins, and did every oil change myself.  Every truck had a slightly different engine (1988 350ci, 1997 5.7, 2001 5.3, 2012 6.0) but each ran flawlessly without using enough oil to bother adding. 

Posted
4 minutes ago, MORSNO said:

I have never had to add oil to any of my trucks between oil changes since I bought my first new truck in 1988.  I purchased each truck new, did my own break-ins, and did every oil change myself.  Every truck had a slightly different engine (1988 350ci, 1997 5.7, 2001 5.3, 2012 6.0) but each ran flawlessly without using enough oil to bother adding. 

Same here until my 6.6L definitely not normal to burn oil. 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
On 6/10/2026 at 3:37 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

In the seven plus decades I've been breathing, a quart off the FULL mark is down a quart. There was never an acceptable deviation. Not that we didn't run them in between we just didn't go on line to make noise about it. 

At what point "between" were you refilling them?  (1/2qt, 1/4qt)

 

Did you ever overfill any?

 

What did you do if you did?

 

Further to my opinion, I don't want to keep or have a bunch of 1/2 quarts laying around in the garage. That kind of forces a wait until it's down to the 'full' quart low mark.

 

And if I'm in spitting distance of an oil change anyways, I'm not dumping a new quart in to drain it back out a month later.

 

That mindset is geared more to the darn near 10 qt capacity of the current fleet, being 10% low is a much different animal than 20%.

Edited by asilverblazer
Posted
11 minutes ago, asilverblazer said:

At what point "between" were you refilling them?  (1/2qt, 1/4qt)

 

Did you ever overfill any?

 

What did you do if you did?

 

Further to my opinion, I don't want to keep or have a bunch of 1/2 quarts laying around in the garage. That kind of forces a wait until it's down to the 'full' quart low mark.

 

And if I'm in spitting distance of an oil change anyways, I'm not dumping a new quart in to drain it back out a month later.

 

That mindset is geared more to the darn near 10 qt capacity of the current fleet, being 10% low is a much different animal than 20%.

 

Great question. Answer....depends. One the volume of the crankcase, the driver that will actually be using the vehicle and the amount it uses plus the distance expected for that next trip. Couple of for instances:

 

Wife is going to drive Dizzy to Moline and back plus a bit around town so say 500 miles on the day. I know from years with that SUV that around town and local rural it uses about a quart in 1250 miles. But on the Interstate and her at the wheel without her anchor nagging her she'll push it and it will drop a quart in about 800 miles. Hence, around town I wait to somewhere between a quarter down to a quart down. On her trip I'd top it if it was down a few ounces and hope for the best. 

 

Have I overfilled one? You mean by adding before it needs a full quart I assume. No, not once after finding the true fill mark.  I know the dipsticks of everything I drive and add what it needs. I learn this by doing the first oil change a quart low. Run the motor for a few minutes. Let it sit over night. Check and mark. Then add half a cup at a time making note of the place on the stick. I add through the dipstick tube with a barbeque basting bottle. Give it a few minutes to drain down and check again. 

 

A vehicle like Dizzy that uses this much oil will take a few quarts between 3K changes. I keep one in the vehicle with the bottle and a bag. (Mindful of it's fullness) Not a big deal and never makes a mess of it. There is no such thing as "multiple quarts' in my shop for any specific oil. There will be a maximum however of the number of different oils used over the fleet.  

 

Dizzy holds a nominal 5 quarts. So the first fill was indeed over as it actually took 4.75. My vehicles are fit with Valvomax valves so I can meter an ounce on the drain if need be. Found her mark first crack at it. Never to be repeated. 

 

Pepper uses none between changes so I don't keep a quart in that one. Straight up 6 quarts put her dead on the full line. Check it ever fuel stop. They will surprise you when they start using. 

 

Raven holds 3 liters or 5.44 ounces over three quarts. I add 3 quarts and 6 ounces. That gives me 5 oil changes on my orphan quart. 

 

Lawnmower holds about 3/5 of a quart. I don't over fill it to prevent an orphan. So yea, depends. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 498 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...