DRL Disable

[TheMythofUtica]

Greetings to all. I'm new here, but I have found some great info and I love the layout of the site. I just purchased a 1999 GMC Yukon (OBS) and one of the main things that have to "go" right away is the daytime running lights. They are annoying. I don't have the auto headlight feature for night time, just the DRL's. I looked at the relay & fuse block under the hood and could fine no relay or fuse labeled "DRL". I also checked the fuse block inside the truck and located the one fuse labeled "DRL". I pulled this fuse and the only result was a loss of dash lights (guages, radio, etc.). The DRL's stayed on! Also, later that night my "service engine soon" light came on. Hoping my fooling with fuses didn't cause that. But anyways, any clue as to why my vehicle is different from every other Yukon? Or am I just not looking in the right places? Thanks for any help with this old, boring issue...it's all new to me.

[Metz Motorsports]

I feel your pain, I cant get the DRL off nor the headlights at night. I have tried all the typical methods and neither shuts off. My truck was originally sold in Canada, not sure if that makes a difference. POOPER

[mdub]

Greetings to all. I'm new here, but I have found some great info and I love the layout of the site. I just purchased a 1999 GMC Yukon (OBS) and one of the main things that have to "go" right away is the daytime running lights. They are annoying. I don't have the auto headlight feature for night time, just the DRL's. I looked at the relay & fuse block under the hood and could fine no relay or fuse labeled "DRL". I also checked the fuse block inside the truck and located the one fuse labeled "DRL". I pulled this fuse and the only result was a loss of dash lights (guages, radio, etc.). The DRL's stayed on! Also, later that night my "service engine soon" light came on. Hoping my fooling with fuses didn't cause that. But anyways, any clue as to why my vehicle is different from every other Yukon? Or am I just not looking in the right places? Thanks for any help with this old, boring issue...it's all new to me.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

Why not remove the bulbs, or install burnt-out bulbs?

[millerwd]

try stepping on the emergency brake gently until the parking brake light comes on.

that should turn them off and not burn your brakes.

[gixxer]

I know that works temporarily, but it would bug me to death having the BRAKE light on the gauge cluster all the time. Any other solutions?

[sperry]

Your DRL's use a control module and diodes. Perhaps all you need to do is disconnect the diode connector.

 

The daytime running lamps (DRL) diode consists of a black aluminum case with fins. The diode attaches to the instrument panel (IP) harness behind the left side of the IP (Dash).

It has a tab that bolts down to secure it.

 

When the headlamp and panel dimmer switch is in the HEAD position, the headlamp and panel dimmer switch directs voltage to either the low beam headlamps or the high beam headlamps. This depends on the headlamp and panel dimmer switch position. When the headlamp and panel dimmer switch is in the HEAD position, not only is voltage available for the headlamps, but the daytime running lamps (DRL) module receives a HEADLAMPS ON signal. When the DRL module receives this signal, the module disables the DRL operation, if the ignition switch is in the RUN position, the BULB TEST position, or the START position.

 

When the headlamp and panel dimmer switch is in the HEAD position and the headlamp and panel dimmer switch is in the LOW position, voltage is available through the closed contacts of the headlamp and panel dimmer switch to the left low beam headlamp and the right low beam headlamp. Ground G112 supplies ground to the right low beam headlamp Ground G113 supplies ground to the left low beam headlamp in vehicles with the base headlamps and in vehicles with the quad headlamps. With both power and ground applied, the low beam headlamps light.

 

When the headlamp dimmer switch is moved to the HIGH position and the headlamp and panel dimmer switch is in the HEAD position, voltage is available through the closed contacts of the headlamp and panel dimmer switch, and the headlamp and panel dimmer switch to the DRL module, the left high beam headlamp, and the right high beam headlamp. With the headlamp dimmer switch in the HIGH position, voltage is available to the high beam indicator. With ground G103 in vehicles with gasoline engines, or ground G104 in vehicles with diesel engines, supplying a ground to the high beam indicator, the indicator lights. Ground G112 supplies a ground for the right high beam headlamp. Ground G113 supplies a ground to the left high beam headlamp. With both power and ground applied, the high beam headlamps light at full intensity.

 

I would post the print but the site is closed and I can't hot link to it (or upload it here).

[sonjaab]

Check out http://www.lightsout.org

Great site to shut off DRLs and auto ons.

 

Ya could just pull the bulbs !

 

Also I will post a simple method of turning off auto ons soon when

I return from NJ..................geo

[DernMooseAk]

I'm not sure on older vehicles, but the newer vehicles first sold in Canada the DRL's are controled by the BCM(body control module) to either have the DRL's or the head lights on. The break trick or the dome light trick wont work. If you pull the fuse it will set a code, hence the check engine light. I'm not sure, but I think if you put burnt out bulbs in it will set a code to.

Some dealer ships will disable it in the BCM, I believe it is PRO code Z49. But you have to find a dealership that will do it.

[MS3DALE]

He can't just "pull the bulbs"! Its the OBS truck, the DRL's use the headlight bulbs!!

If he would pull them he wouldn't have any headlamps!!

There is a fuse under the hood you can pull,I know because I did it on my '97 and '99 and even did it on my new '04,if you pull off the fuse block cover and look at the diagram underneath it will tell you which one is the DRL fuse,just pull it and your done!

And pulling the fuse will set a code (but only a body code,it won't hurt a thing) but it will not turn on the check engine light,as I said before I have done it to my last three trucks and it works great.

[sperry]

If he pulls the fuse, the fog's won't work. (Fuse name: DRL/FOG)

 

If he disconnects the relay, the headlights won't work.

 

However, if he disconnects the connector at the diode pack, that'll only kill the DRL's.

 

Orange wire in, yellow wire out. If I could only post the pic (schematic) here!

[MS3DALE]

Its an OBS truck!! It doesn't have fog lamps!! Pulling the fuse will work,I've done it on my trucks and also here at the dealership alot for customers

[sperry]

OBS= "Old Beater Style" If acronyms wern't used so much, there wouldn'd be as many interpretation errors!

 

Interpret please.

 

Back to the fuse... He must have pulled the wrong one (at first) ..

[MS3DALE]

OBS="Old Body Style" trucks;all the '88 to '98's and '99 and 2000 "carry-overs" are considered the old body style trucks.

Hope thats not too confusing.

[sperry]

Not anymore. Thank you

 

I work with a hell of a lot of acronyms. But in a different field.

 

I use too many in some posts where it confuses the troops. Must be the Karma - My turn.

 

I should have just asked. My error..

 

The print was too general, it had shown the fogs in the circuit. They didn't show "Not in OBS".

[tryn2lrn]

What is the problem with having the DRLs? Why do you want/need to disconnect them? Not trying to be an A$$, just curious.