Need help from someone with dual batteries

[gcarnrick]

I currently have a 2500HD and because I plow with it, I am adding an auxillary battery just like the factory setup. I have purchased the factory tray, brackets and the battery but need help with the cables.

 

There are three RPO codes (TP2, 8B0 and 8Y9) for dual batteries and I need help decifering which is which. I want the batteries connected all the time - not the isolation setup. Here are the factory battery cables I think I need.

 

01 6SX46A CABLE,AUX BAT NEG

With RPO AUX CAMPER BAT(TP2) ^ DUAL BAT 600 CCA & 770 CCA(8B0) ^ BATTERY,DUAL(8Y9) 46"

 

01 2SX39 CABLE,AUX BAT POS

With RPO BATTERY,DUAL(8Y9) 39")(AUXILIARY BATTERY TO STARTER)

 

If somebody with the dual batteries (non-isolation) setup could please help me confirm the wiring - specifically please confirm:

 

1: Where does the ground wire ground? It appears the wire is 46" long!

2: Does the positive battery cable go directly to the starter?

3: What gauge wire does the factory use.

 

If anybody knows the answer, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks

 

-Greg

[99silveradoz71]

You may want to try a search as I want to say dual battery setups were just discussed within the last 1-2 weeks.

[chevhot]

the positive cable goes to the other batt positive and the ground you can put it on the block with some star washers just go to your local parts store they can hook you up

hope this helps

rick

[Jacqson]

I currently have a 2500HD and because I plow with it, I am adding an auxillary battery just like the factory setup.  I have purchased the factory tray, brackets and the battery but need help with the cables.

 

There are three RPO codes (TP2, 8B0 and 8Y9) for dual batteries and I need help decifering which is which.  I want the batteries connected all the time - not the isolation setup.  Here are the factory battery cables I think I need.

 

01  6SX46A  CABLE,AUX BAT NEG   

      With RPO AUX CAMPER BAT(TP2) ^ DUAL BAT 600 CCA & 770 CCA(8B0) ^ BATTERY,DUAL(8Y9)      46"       

   

01  2SX39  CABLE,AUX BAT POS   

      With RPO BATTERY,DUAL(8Y9)      39")(AUXILIARY BATTERY TO STARTER)

 

If somebody with the dual batteries (non-isolation) setup could please help me confirm the wiring - specifically please confirm:

 

1: Where does the ground wire ground? It appears the wire is 46" long!

2: Does the positive battery cable go directly to the starter?

3: What gauge wire does the factory use.

 

If anybody knows the answer, I would appreciate it.

 

Thanks

 

-Greg

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

I have an 02 3/4 ton Sub that has a dual battery setup that works great.Listen to this and see what you think.

After getting the tray and battery(I changed both batteries to Delco Professional series 78-7YR(770 CCA)).

I hooked up the auxillary positive to the starter(More starting capacity)and the negative to the engine block. Before the positive went to the starter I placed a Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoid(Part#24143) between the positive and the starter. The hookup is Aux battery positive to the solenoid then on to the starter. To activate the solenoid I connected a 14 gauge line to an ignition activated source. Here's how it works. When the vehicle is not running the batteries are separate, once the truck is running both batteries work in parallel and when you go to start you have both batteries starting the truck. The beauty of this setup is you have all the capacity of both batteries to start and operate the truck and when the vehicle is off the solenoid separates the batteries so that if one dies you have the other to start the truck. I have a 12000 lb warn winch on my truck that is hooked up to the auxillary battery so that if I am winching with the truck running I have the power of both batteries working for me and if the engine dies I still have the ability to winch and drain the auxillary battery and still have the other battery to start the truck. I think this setup would work for you because you are getting the capacity of both batteries when you are plowing which is what you are looking for and you can't plow when the truck isn't running so having the batteries separate when the truck is off is not an issue. I used 2 gauge cable for the setup. If you are interested or want more info, please let me know. Hope this helps

[gcarnrick]

 

 

I have an 02 3/4 ton Sub that has a dual battery setup that works great.Listen to this and see what you think.

After getting the tray and battery(I changed both batteries to Delco Professional series 78-7YR(770 CCA)).

I hooked up the auxillary positive to the starter(More starting capacity)and the negative to the engine block. Before the positive went to the starter I placed a Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoid(Part#24143) between the positive and the starter. The hookup is Aux battery positive to the solenoid then on to the starter. To activate the solenoid I connected a 14 gauge line to an ignition activated source. Here's how it works. When the vehicle is not running the batteries are separate, once the truck is running both batteries work in parallel and when you go to start you have both batteries starting the truck. The beauty of this setup is you have all the capacity of both batteries to start and operate the truck and when the vehicle is off the solenoid separates the batteries so that if one dies you have the other to start the truck. I have a 12000 lb warn winch on my truck that is hooked up to the auxillary battery so that if I am winching with the truck running I have the power of both batteries working for me and if the engine dies I still have the ability to winch and drain the auxillary battery and still have the other battery to start the truck. I think this setup would work for you because you are getting the capacity of both batteries when you are plowing which is what you are looking for and you can't plow when the truck isn't running so having the batteries separate when the truck is off is not an issue. I used 2 gauge cable for the setup. If you are interested or want more info, please let me know. Hope this helps

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Very helpfull.

 

I wired the positive to the starter with 4guage wire and wired the negative to the front passenger side of the engine block like you said. There was a bolt on the head that was easy to get to- so it worked out perfectly.

 

I bought 1 770amp professional battery for the aux but still have the original 600 amp battery in the stock location for now. I will definately be upgrading that soon to another 770 like you did - its a great idea.

 

Thank you for your help

 

-Greg

[Jacqson]

 

 

I have an 02 3/4 ton Sub that has a dual battery setup that works great.Listen to this and see what you think.

After getting the tray and battery(I changed both batteries to Delco Professional series 78-7YR(770 CCA)).

I hooked up the auxillary positive to the starter(More starting capacity)and the negative to the engine block. Before the positive went to the starter I placed a Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoid(Part#24143) between the positive and the starter. The hookup is Aux battery positive to the solenoid then on to the starter. To activate the solenoid I connected a 14 gauge line to an ignition activated source. Here's how it works. When the vehicle is not running the batteries are separate, once the truck is running both batteries work in parallel and when you go to start you have both batteries starting the truck. The beauty of this setup is you have all the capacity of both batteries to start and operate the truck and when the vehicle is off the solenoid separates the batteries so that if one dies you have the other to start the truck. I have a 12000 lb warn winch on my truck that is hooked up to the auxillary battery so that if I am winching with the truck running I have the power of both batteries working for me and if the engine dies I still have the ability to winch and drain the auxillary battery and still have the other battery to start the truck. I think this setup would work for you because you are getting the capacity of both batteries when you are plowing which is what you are looking for and you can't plow when the truck isn't running so having the batteries separate when the truck is off is not an issue. I used 2 gauge cable for the setup. If you are interested or want more info, please let me know. Hope this helps

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Very helpfull.

 

I wired the positive to the starter with 4guage wire and wired the negative to the front passenger side of the engine block like you said. There was a bolt on the head that was easy to get to- so it worked out perfectly.

 

I bought 1 770amp professional battery for the aux but still have the original 600 amp battery in the stock location for now. I will definately be upgrading that soon to another 770 like you did - its a great idea.

 

Thank you for your help

 

-Greg

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

You might want to upgrade the other battery ASAP because it is hard on the charging system to have two different capacity batteries on the same circuit. You may do some damage to your alternator because the 600cca will be fully charged before the 770cca. The alternator cuts out when the battery is charged and in this case because of the different capacities you may overcharge the original battery.

[dewfpo]

Jacqson,

 

I like your set-up. Sounds like the best of both worlds, 2 batteries for starting, then each battery is isolated.

 

I bought a 2005 2500HD with the wrong dual battery setup. I didn't want the auxillary (isolated) battery setup, I wanted a true dual battery set-up. I was planning on doing what gcarnrick (thanks for the part numbers for the cables) was planning on doing, but I like the relay idea.

 

Where did you find the Cole HErsee 24143 relay and how much did it cost.

 

Thanks,

DEWFPO

[BBSilverado]

Jacqson,

 

I like your set-up.  Sounds like the best of both worlds, 2 batteries for starting, then each battery is isolated.

 

I bought a 2005 2500HD with the wrong dual battery setup.  I didn't want the auxillary (isolated) battery setup, I wanted a true dual battery set-up.  I was planning on doing what gcarnrick (thanks for the part numbers for the cables) was planning on doing, but I like the relay idea.

 

Where did you find the Cole HErsee 24143 relay and how much did it cost.

 

Thanks,

DEWFPO

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Hey DEWFPO, If you have the isolated dual battery setup (code TP2) then your setup is just like gcarnrick's.

The TQ3 setup is two batteries connected together with no relay or isolater to separate them when the ignition is off.

[dewfpo]

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Hey DEWFPO, If you have the isolated dual battery setup (code TP2) then your setup is just like gcarnrick's.

The TQ3 setup is two batteries connected together with no relay or isolater to separate them when the ignition is off.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

That's right, but what Jacqson is suggesting is a little of both. Dual batteries connected via a second solenoid only for starting, then once the key is in the run position, the batteries are back to being isolated. It's sort of like the TP2 and TQ3 depending on which position the key is in.

 

At least that's how I'm reading it. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

DEWFPO

[BBSilverado]

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Hey DEWFPO, If you have the isolated dual battery setup (code TP2) then your setup is just like gcarnrick's.

The TQ3 setup is two batteries connected together with no relay or isolater to separate them when the ignition is off.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

That's right, but what Jacqson is suggesting is a little of both. Dual batteries connected via a second solenoid only for starting, then once the key is in the run position, the batteries are back to being isolated. It's sort of like the TP2 and TQ3 depending on which position the key is in.

 

At least that's how I'm reading it. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

DEWFPO

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

If that is the case then when does the second batt get charged if it is only connected for the time it takes to crank the starter?

[Jacqson]

Jacqson,

 

I like your set-up.  Sounds like the best of both worlds, 2 batteries for starting, then each battery is isolated.

 

I bought a 2005 2500HD with the wrong dual battery setup.  I didn't want the auxillary (isolated) battery setup, I wanted a true dual battery set-up.  I was planning on doing what gcarnrick (thanks for the part numbers for the cables) was planning on doing, but I like the relay idea.

 

Where did you find the Cole HErsee 24143 relay and how much did it cost.

 

Thanks,

DEWFPO

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

Go to (www.colehersee.com/catalog_top/index.htm) then click on solenoids.Go down the list until you see the 24143,and it will give you the specs. There is no picture but they look like an old ford starter solenoid. There should be someplace on the site that will tell you where you can buy one. I paid $60.00CDN so it should cost you about $50.00 US. If you need any more info on how to hook this thing up let me know.

[Jacqson]

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

Hey DEWFPO, If you have the isolated dual battery setup (code TP2) then your setup is just like gcarnrick's.

The TQ3 setup is two batteries connected together with no relay or isolater to separate them when the ignition is off.

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

 

That's right, but what Jacqson is suggesting is a little of both. Dual batteries connected via a second solenoid only for starting, then once the key is in the run position, the batteries are back to being isolated. It's sort of like the TP2 and TQ3 depending on which position the key is in.

 

At least that's how I'm reading it. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

DEWFPO

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

If that is the case then when does the second batt get charged if it is only connected for the time it takes to crank the starter?

 

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

 

 

 

I will try to explain this:

 

The positive terminal of the auxillary battery is connected from the battery to one post of the solenoid, then you connect the other half of the positive cable from the solenoid to the starter. At this point you have both batteries positive cables attached to the starter.then you can connect the negative side of the aux battery to an engine ground.

The solenoid also has two small posts. One is for ground the other is to an ignition activated power source.

 

This is how it works: When you start(activate Ignition)your truck the ignition activated power source closes the solenoid which means that both batteries are in parrallel and you have the capacity of both batteries.The aux battery is being charged from the positive cable that is attached to the starter which goes through the solenoid to the aux battery. When you shut your truck off which also shuts off the ignition activated power source the solenoid opens and isolates the two batteries. The important thing is that both batteries should be the same capacity(CCA). Hope this explains it ,if not let me know.

[BBSilverado]

I understand that, that is the way the TP2 system works.

DEWFPO thought that the second batt was only connected during the cranking process and was isolated during run AND off position.

 

Singer makes a great 200amp continuous duty battery relay also, very similar to the one you got but with a little higher amperage rating and they are $50 shipped.

[dewfpo]

Your right BBSilverado. I initially misunderstood and thought that the two batteries were only connected during cranking.

 

Since they are connected the entire time the engine is runnnig, then both batts can provide power and will get charged and that makes more sense. Thanks for the clarification all.

 

Question : The solenoids mentioned are rated at 200 amps continuous, but what about the peak loads during cranking. Any concerns there?

 

Thanks

 

DEWFPO

[builderpaul]

I can see where this system may be a disadvantage. If Aux battery is used up than when you go to start, the main battery is not only powering the starter but also sending current to the run down aux battery. This will cause less power being available for the start.

If it isn't a duramax than I don't see the need for 2 batteries just to start your truck. I have lived my life in the North east with many mornings beow zero and never needed 2 batteries to start the truck but my backhoe needs 2 to start. If you need to crank that much than you have more problems than lack of battery power.

For your winch, sound system, inverters, etc than an alternator sensing isolated setup is the way to go.