Jump to content

ssbc brake install

sablowme

Recommended Posts

sablowme Enthusiast

sablowme

Posted
Posted

Hey guys just called summitt racing up the other day and ordered this SSBC brake kit belive it or not the kit was $400 Thats front, rear, pads and rotors.

the install was fairly easy except for all the loctite gm put on the bolt. i got the fronts on and went to the rear and found out rotors were wrong. Most of you guys probley know but gm has 2-3 differnt kits for the rear rotors and of course they sent me the wrong ones . They sent me the gm equivelent (spelling) of 25757802 witch are found on most tahoes and pick-ups with dual piston rear calipers. the correct version of these rotors wich are the gm equiv....(i cant spell that word..d**n) 15712800 wich generaly found on single piston caliper trucks and some tahoes. Anyway SSBC was awsome they sent me new ones no questions asked and now the slopy (k157/53) e.c.s.b stops alot better. But you have to watch apparently the sloted rotors are directional and need to be mounted in a spacific way .. Any concerns or gossip welcome

alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted

I'll be interested to hear how you like them over time. I just put OE replacement Brembo rotors and OE Delco pads on my '02 Yukon Denali. The rotors were $300 from Tirerack and the pads were $200. I don't think I'll use Delco pads in the future because the cost is pretty high. I debated getting Akebono for a bit less.

AirForceAngler Enthusiast

AirForceAngler

Posted
Posted
I'll be interested to hear how you like them over time.  I just put OE replacement Brembo rotors and OE Delco pads on my '02 Yukon Denali.  The rotors were $300 from Tirerack and the pads were $200.  I don't think I'll use Delco pads in the future because the cost is pretty high.  I debated getting Akebono for a bit less.

 

 

 

 

Was the $200 for pads for all four corners? If so, that isn't too bad a price for these pads. The pads on Chevy trucks are some of the cleanest running I've ever seen.

Silveradoguy04 Enthusiast

Silveradoguy04

Posted
Posted

I bought the SSBC set myself last summer. Great set I must say. I had the same problem too where I order the wrong ones from Truckperformance.com. SSBC has great customer service. As for stoping :D .

alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted
Was the $200 for pads for all four corners?  If so, that isn't too bad a price for these pads.  The pads on Chevy trucks are some of the cleanest running I've ever seen.

 

 

 

 

Yes, that was for all four wheels using the ceramic pads. The list price was $152.42 per axle which the Chevy dealer up the street was charging. The GMC dealership where I bought the vehicle charges $99.95 per axle. The part numbers are rear: 18045936 and front: 18041762. I got 55k miles on the original set so I figured I would stick with the Delco pads for the first change. I changed rotor brands because the Delco's were junk. Both fronts rusted solid to the axle hubs in only 3 years and the all four had various degrees of pitting.

NewZ71Owner05 New Member

NewZ71Owner05

Posted
Posted

I have a second vehicle with rotors rusted to the wheel. How did u get the rotors off. PB blaster and dead blow hammer seem to be useless. I might have to get out the the cutting wheel.....

alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted
I have a second vehicle with rotors rusted to the wheel. How did u get the rotors off.  PB blaster and  dead blow hammer seem to be useless. I might have to get out the the cutting wheel.....

 

 

 

 

Both of my front rotors were rusted to the hub and unfortunately, there is no easy way to get them off. I used quite a bit of penetrating oil but ultimately, it took about 30 minutes of hitting the backside of each rotor with a sledge hammer to break them loose. I would tap around the front, then hit the back of the rotor several times as hard as possible. The rotors were pretty smashed when I finally got them off but I planned on replacing them.

 

Before you put the new rotors on, put some anti-sieze lubricant around the axle hub and on the inside of the rotor housing. This should help prevent them from rusting to the hubs again.

 

Good luck!

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • clowe1243
      6.2L L87 Powertrain Engine Noise (Lifter Failure) Question

      By clowe1243 · Posted

      Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • haoleboyZ71
      Radio Update

      By haoleboyZ71 · Posted

      If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • Bill Lemmond
      primary drive belt tensioner

      By Bill Lemmond · Posted

      2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • Atlas
      Upgrade to a 2026 AT4 with the 3.0L Duramax

      By Atlas · Posted

      +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...