Towing Newbie!

MikeDirntRulez · January 26, 2007

Hello all,

I just recently bought a 2002 GMC Sierra SLE Regular cab because I needed a car/truck with a bit more carrying space, and also in case I ever need to tow something.

Anyways, I don't know the first thing about towing. The truck came equipped with a Trailer hitch, which I believe is a class III, so I think I am good there. however, i guess I need a receiver/hitch ball? I was looking, and the only ones offered had a 2" drop. Do I need one with a drop? The truck is at the stock height, so I'm not really sure about that.

Also, what are some safety precautions I should know? I noticed people wrap chains around the tounge of their trailer, what's that for? I wont be towing anything over 5,000 lbs, so I don't need any fancy special equipment. Just some basics and recommendations on what to get would really be appreciated. Thanks alot guys.

redvett · January 26, 2007

Depends on how big/heavy a trailer you want to pull but if you want to pull a 3000+ lb load its reccomended that you use an equlizer and almost all states require trailer brakes on over 3000lb's also safety chains are required on everything being towed in every state for safety. Brake light are 100%

pm26 · January 26, 2007

I have a Z71 with stock ride height and I use a draw bar with a 2 inch drop, which makes towed trailers pretty level. A 2WD drive may not need a dropped bar, as it sits about 2 inches lower than a 2WD truck.

If you are towing a boat trailer it will have surge brakes, i.e hydraulic brakes actuated by force of the trailer coupler acting against the draw bar when decelerating. Travel trailers over about 2000 lbs will have electric brakes, which require a brake controller installed in your truck.

asilverblazer · January 26, 2007

You will be fine with the 2" hitch, if it is too low just flip it over. Keeping the trailer properly balanced will aleviate most handling issues. I've never needed an equalizer on any of my trailers. I doubt you will tow anything that heavy, considering the reasons listed above. Sounds like a lot of light duty stuff. A brake controller is an excellent idea though. The margin of safety they provide is huge considering the cost $120 for a good one. Plus they are a snap to install. A bigger transmission cooler would be useful for any prolonged towing, or if you are in a hot climate. Again for light and occasional towing I don't think this is required.

HawkeyeOC · January 26, 2007

Also, what are some safety precautions I should know? I noticed people wrap chains around the tounge of their trailer, what's that for? I wont be towing anything over 5,000 lbs, so I don't need any fancy special equipment. Just some basics and recommendations on what to get would really be appreciated. Thanks alot guys.

Swing wide when you turn with a trailer (there is a lot more behind you with a trailer), allow a lot more room to stop. The chains help...I had a light trailer get loose one time from the ball and the chains kept it from hurting anyone. Lots of damage to the back bumper but the trailer stayed with the vehicle...scary!

redvett · January 26, 2007

Safety chains are manditory on any trailer in al 50 states. If you tow a trailer and it gets away and hits someone you better just dig a grave.

dewfpo · January 26, 2007

I recommend the Tekinsha Prodigy Brake controller. Easy install in our vehicles. Remember that only 10-15% of the total weight of the load and the trailer should be on the tongue.

As others have said...... accelleration is slower, braking is slower, and making turns and pulling in front of someone takes more room so plan for it. I have seen folks who forget they have 20' of trailer behind them, pass you, then pull in front of you too soon sending you into the ditch.

If it's you first time, go to a parking lot and practice backing up.

DEWFPO

Shaners · January 26, 2007

Under most circumstances, the ball height from the ground to the top of the ball should be 18". Occaisionally, on some bigger trailers you'll need 20".

You don't want the ball to be too high or you will experiance alot of trailer "wag".

Trouttrooper · January 26, 2007

Anyways, I don't know the first thing about towing. The truck came equipped with a Trailer hitch, which I believe is a class III, so I think I am good there. however, i guess I need a receiver/hitch ball? I was looking, and the only ones offered had a 2" drop. Do I need one with a drop? The truck is at the stock height, so I'm not really sure about that.

Also, what are some safety precautions I should know? I noticed people wrap chains around the tounge of their trailer, what's that for? I wont be towing anything over 5,000 lbs, so I don't need any fancy special equipment. Just some basics and recommendations on what to get would really be appreciated. Thanks alot guys.

Reciever drop just depends on what it takes to make your trailer tow level. Most trailer/truck setups just need a 2" drop.

Safety chains are for in case the trailer falls off the hitch. They hook to the two holes on either side of the reciever hole.

Most heavier trailers also have a small cable you attache to the truck that will automatically lock up the trailer brakes in case the trailer falls off the hitch.

There are different size trailer balls depending on weight of trailer. Most are 2" ball but there are also 1 7/8 and 2 5/16. They are stamped on top of the ball for size and weight rating. Trailer tounges will also be stamped with what size ball they take. Make sure you get the right size/rating for whatever trailer you pull.

Buy a brake controller and get it installed!!!

Get towing mirrors, either clip on or factory.

Be careful taking corners.

Give yourself extra time/space for acceleration and stopping.

MikeDirntRulez · January 26, 2007

Thanks alot guys!

This answered alot of my questions. It seems alot easier than I thought I just got confused and wasn't sure what things I need. I appreciate your replies alot!

c4cruiser · January 28, 2007

Good answers here but I guess we need to know a little more about what you intend to tow.

The factory hitch is a Class III and that is good for up to 5000lbs and a 500lb tongue weight. The trailer tongue weight is typically 10-15% of the total weight of the trailer. This tongue weight has to be included in the total cargo weight carrying capacity of the truck. For example, if you are going to carry a couple passengers, subtract their weight from the truck's maximum carrying capacity. Bringing the dog? Subtract that weight too. Luggage, tools, and/or equipment? subtract that weight too. Then the trailer tongue weight. As you can imagine, the load adds up quickly!!

Some trailers have electrically operated brakes, some have "surge brakes", some have none at all. An electronic brake controller (the Teksohna Prodigy is an excellent choice!) is needed with electric trailer brakes. "Surge brakes" are built into the trailer tongue. A sliding mechanism operates the trailer brakes as you use the truck brakes. There is no other connection to the trailer brakes.

Wiring. Your truck should have a 7-pin round connector that will operated the trailer tail lamps, clearance lights, brake and turn lights. There is also a pin in that connector for electric trailer brakes and a 12v power supply. Most larger trailer will have a 7-pin connector that is wired so that you need only plug it in (make sure to test all the trailer lights before you take off!!). Smaller trailers have a 4-pin flat connector; you can get a 7-pin to 4-pin adapter for about $8 to make the trailer lights work. Just plug the adapter into the truck connector and the 4-pin connector into the adapter. Even though the truck has separate turn signal lights, the trailer brake/turn lights will work properly.

As mentioned, trailer chains are required in all states. Take the two chains that are attached to the trailer and cross them in a X-fashion below the trailer tongue. Then hook the ends to the rings on either side of the receiver.

Also if your trailer has electric brakes it should also have a "breakaway box". You will see a small steel cable attached to a box on the side of the trailer tongue. This cable attaches to the truck and should be just shorter than the length of the safety chains. If the trailer comes loose, this cable will pull out a small plastic tab and the switch will energize a circuit powered by a 12v battery to apply the trailer brakes. If you use a trailer with this system, you should make sure that the battery is charged and in good condition. Hook the trailer up and hook up the chains. To test the breakaway box, pull the plastic tab out of the switch and put the truck in gear and try to move forward. If the truck doesn't want to move, the trailer breakaway system is working properly. Replace the plastic tab and then test the truck brakes.

The hitch tongue is a 2" diameter square tube that fits into the receiver. As mentioned, there are a variety of sizes of drops (from straight to 6" and 3 different sizes of balls. The tongue and ball should be of the same rating or more than the receiver. There are plain steel, stainless steel and aluminum tongues and balls in chrome, stainless or powdercoated steel. If your trailer weight totals up to 5000lbs, get the 5000lb tongue and ball. Actually, get one anyway, it will handle 95% of your needs. Depending on the trailer(s) you may tow, get one with a 2" ball and another with a 1 7/8" ball. They don't cost a lot and it saves switching balls. Also get a good hitch pin that locks. Master makes a good one. That way it won't get stolen if you leave it in the receiver.

Making sure your truck is in good shape to tow a trailer is important. If you have not done a tranny service (complete fluid flush and filter) in 35K miles, you should have it done. The coolant should be flushed and replaced if it's 5 years old. Good truck brakes are important as are good shocks and tires. So check the brake pads, check the shocks for excessive bouncing, and make sure the tires are properly inflated for towing. If you will be needing tires soon, consider an LT (light truck) tire in a Load Range D or E if you frequently tow heavier loads.

Using the Tow/Haul switch on the shift lever is a good idea for trailer weights over 2000lbs. This switch changes the shift point RPM and slightly stiffens the shift. You can try it just by pushing in the button to see how it works. Try not to tow using OD for heavier trailers. Stay in "3" for the most part. On flat roads like freeways, you may be able to use OD as long as the tranny doesn't hunt back and forth between OD and 3rd or if the torque converter frequently locks and unlocks.

Always be aware of cars around you and try to stay at or below the posted speed limits. Depending on the length of the trailer, you may have to go wider on right-hand turns in town so watch for curbs on the right and cars on your left as you turn. Signal well in advance of turning and brake smoothly and early. On the freeway, watch at least 5 or 6 cars ahead for people changing lanes or if people are stopping. It can be easy to forget that with a trailer, you are driving a vehicle that is now twice the length of your truck and can be double the weight. Extended mirrors will be a big help if the trailer you will be towing blocks your view behind you.

ncchevy75 · February 6, 2007

I would recommend getting a Trailer Guardian. I had an experience towing my boat through town and the trailer uncoupled when I went over some railroad tracks. Could have caused a terrible accident but the chains kept anything really bad from happening. The Trailer Guardian (www.trailerguardian.com) essentially makes it impossible for the trailer to decouple from the ball. I think they cost between $50-75. The peace of mind is well worth it.