Jump to content

Body "creak" from interior


Larry07

Recommended Posts

Posted

I've noticed an intermittant body "creak", that seems to be coming from the lower A-piller/dash juncture on the drivers side.

It's most noticed coming to a stop or just when you accelerate. Sometimes at a stop sign and as a left turn is executed from that stop.

Is there something that needs adjustment or tighting?

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am having the same creeking sound you have described in my 07 Yukon, but on the passenger side. I am so annoyed. I am going in to the dealer next week when it is doing it to show them so they can fix the prob. I will let you know what they say

Posted
I've noticed an intermittant body "creak", that seems to be coming from the lower A-piller/dash juncture on the drivers side.

It's most noticed coming to a stop or just when you accelerate. Sometimes at a stop sign and as a left turn is executed from that stop.

Is there something that needs adjustment or tighting?

thanks

Sounds like an A-frame bushing may need replacement. :cheers:
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I am the second post...to elaborate...mines passenger side a-pilar as well. I dont pay much attention since w/ knobby tires my entire truck rattles by now....

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Try tightening the bolt that is on the bottom of your front fender that bolts it to the door/rocker assembly. This fixed my creek/popping noises. Also, tighten the bolts on your fender braces - upper and lower.

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
Try tightening the bolt that is on the bottom of your front fender that bolts it to the door/rocker assembly. This fixed my creek/popping noises. Also, tighten the bolts on your fender braces - upper and lower.

I'll give it a try. Thanks!

 

Anyone else with this problem have any luck?

Posted

I've had a similar problem with my 2004. Eventually I narrowed it down to the Parking Brake Cable.

 

The noise was resonating from behind the dashboard and sounded like it was coming from either the dashboard or the A-pillar. Using Teflon treated dry lube on the cable both under the driver side door and under the dash (behind the pedal), I was able to exercise the noise out of my truck. Two weeks and not a creek.

Posted

i have a creak at the manual 4x4 shift lever in my 07 2500HD (WT), not even 500 miles on it and i get noises. sounds like a rubber squeak over bumps, and only does it when its below 50 degrees outside., very annoying.

Posted

I have a nasty creak in the passenger side when I accelerate/brake or drive over rough terrain. It sounds like it's coming from the rear. I was thinking it was the rear springs. Anybody hear it from the rear? My A pillar is quiet. I did have a slight rattling sound from the passenger side front, but only above 40mph. I found that a clip that holds the inner fender liner was broken on the very bottom and the wind was flapping the lower corner of the liner.

Posted

I have the same problem on my 03. I turned up the stereo and the noise seemed to disappear... :thumbs::flag::D

 

yeah its a pain in the ass but I don't have the time to hunt around and find it.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Conditions for Meeting a Cold Start   The ignition voltage is between 10 and 15 V. The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) at start-up is less than 42°C (108°F). The intake air temperature (IAT) is between 2–32°C (36–90°F). The engine is OFF for greater than 6 hours or the following conditions must be met: The start-up IAT minus start-up ECT are within 12°C (22°F). The start-up ECT minus start-up IAT are within 50°C (90°F). Fuel level is between 25 and 75 %.   Circuit/System Verification Verify that all I/M System Status indicators report YES, and that no I/M Test DTCs are present.If any I/M Test DTCs are set Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. If no I/M Test DTCs are set All OK. Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure   Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning. Note: Do NOT touch the accelerator pedal until told to do so. A change in TP Sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.   Note: An I/M Test DTC will not be stored or erased from the ECU except at the end of trip processing, which occurs 5 s after ignition OFF.   Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above. If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service bay test if applicable. Turn OFF all of the accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc., and open the hood.   Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in park for automatic transmission or neutral for manual transmission.   Start and idle the engine for 2 min.   Close the hood, release the parking brake and Accelerate at part throttle to 72–80 km/h (45–50 mph) with this speed maintained until the engine reaches operating temperature, 8–10 min.   Continue operation under these conditions for an additional 6 min.   Accelerate at part throttle to 90 km/h (55 mph) with this speed maintained for 2 min.   Release the accelerator pedal for at least 10 s. This will allow the vehicle to enter the decel fuel cut off.   Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in drive for automatic or neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual. Allow the vehicle to idle for 2 min.   Shift the vehicle to park for automatic and neutral for manual. Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 45 min.   Observe the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Status with a scan tool. All of the I/M System Status indicators should display YES.   If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, turn OFF the ignition, ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start, and repeat steps 6-11 three more times, or until the EVAP I/M System Status indicator transitions to YES. If the indicator continues to display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table to identify the DTCs that did not run.   If any of the I/M System Status indicators display NO, refer to the Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System DTC Table for the indicator which did not display YES. The I/M System DTC Table identifies the DTCs associated with each I/M System Status Indicator.   Observe the I/M Test DTC information with a scan tool. Verify there are no I/M Test DTCs present. If an I/M Test DTC is set, diagnose the DTC using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle and refer to Inspection/Maintenance System Check.   Observe the engine DTC information with a scan tool. Verify no DTCs are present. If a DTC is set, diagnose using the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle. After repairs, perform the Inspection/Maintenance Complete System Set Procedure to verify no further DTCs are set.       Looks like one procedure to me.  Repeated as necessary.
    • My 2020 AT4 6.2 has had the valve spring issue addressed at ~200 miles, front cover/pump replaced at 18k, water pump at 34k and idler pully at 65k.  I would agree with ditching by 100k unless you elect to go with upgraded hardware...say built 10l80 and an lt4 or l8p swap.
    • I also need one of your modules for my 1993 chevy c2500 7.4 Thanks! My email is [email protected]
    • Chevy needs to do a black regular cab short box SS model with the new 6.6L.  400SS.
    • You might find the drive cycle you need somewhere on charm.li (website), otherwise I suggest a subscription to alldata.com to get them for your truck.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...