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Yes- Another Keys/t-bar Cracking Question


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Posted

I cranked my t-bars last night on my 05 z71 CC to gain 1" of extra clearance. I measured from ground to fender lip, was stock at 36", now at 37" both sides. I've read what seems like hundreds of posts about keys and t-bar cranks. My cv angles barely changed if at all from the 1" crank. My questions are:

-If I buy the ford keys (which are cheap around me 39 bucks total) what do I gain?

-With the keys installed will I back off the t-bars and yet still go higher then the 1" I've cranked?

Or will the keys alone add 1-2"? And then the tbar cranking I did total me at 3"?

-If so at 3" I'm higher then the back end and I'm sure would need longer front shocks. Am I assuming right?

-My back is stock at 38 1/4", cranked 1" like I said I'm at 37" in front so if the keys will even me up at 38 1/4 it's worth the 39 bucks plus alignment

 

Lastley, just opinion here, at the 1" crank my cv angles BARELY changed, it doesn't pull, and it feel the same over bumps, I.E. shocks feel fine. Do you still recommend I pay 60 bucks for an alignment? I don't want to wear out tires, but I don't see or feel the need for it.

 

Thanks to all.

Posted

Do you have more bolt left on your stock keys? If so, might as well crank it up more. No different that putting in Ford keys and not cranking as much. Yes, I would get it aligned if you don't want your tires wearing prematurely. Most alignments shouldn't be much more than $30 - 40 for front end only.

Posted

All the Ford keys or equivalent aftermarket keys do is allow for greater adjustment. It does nothing other than indexing the bolt more. Some trucks come from the factory with little adjustment left on the bolts. This is where the keys would be handy.

 

With that said...I have aftermarket keys and coil spring spacers for sale. Looking to get $100 for the set.

Posted

Ive had my mechanic do this on my old truck, but i would like to do it on my own this time.

Do i need to lift the front end up first on jacks to be able to crank the bolts? on can you just turn them while it is on the ground? also what is the recommended most amount of turns? thanx

Posted

Yes you do need to lift up the front end first. It all depends on how much cranking you have left in the bolts, I would imagine you have enough left to just level it. And make sure you get an alignment afterwards.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I would still get an alignment. My truck rode and drove find after cranking but when you looked at from the front you could see that the tires were pitched at an angle.

Posted

Heys guys, I'm fairly new here and I would really appreciate your input. I'm a licensed tech but I have absolutely no experience with lifting trucks.

 

I have an 04 Sierra K1500 Crew Cab I just bought a few months ago. The truck has the factory 265/70R17 tires right now but they will soon need to be replaced and I'd like to throw some 285/70R17s in there (close to 33" I believe) as well as lift the truck up about 2, maybe 3 inches for a little better stance and a little more security when I'm gettin dirty at the farm. :banghead: I know about body lifts but I don't want to mess around with that because I'm not really gaining any clearance, the front tow hooks look dumb, I don't like the way the factory hitch hangs in mid-air, etc. I also don't want to just bring up the front, I like the factory "rake" because when I'm towing my trailer the truck sits nice and level.

 

I'm thinking about doing a rear add-a-leaf (and maybe a bigger block) and then cranking the torsion bars or adding these Ford keys you all talk about. Exactly what Ford are they from if I wanted to buy them? Also, I don't mind a somewhat stiffer ride (my other vehicle is a Grand Prix GXP that rides like a dump truck) but I don't want it too uncomfortable for my girlfriend. You guys mention the shocks being too short or moving out of their "sweet spot" and riding rough, would I have to change the shocks? What about a 1-2" spacer washer to move them down a little? I actually just changed the shocks (put in Rancho RS5000 factory replacements) and noticed there really isn't a whole lot of down OR upward suspension travel built into these rigs.

 

I would appreciate your input, guys. I'm looking to do this mostly as a "looks" thing, as I said, with the added benefit of a little more clearance. I'd also like to do it cheaply, if possible. Thanks in advance.

Posted

To the original poster , do not mistake key adjustment as a lift kit , if you can follow that idea keep the stock keys adjust a little more to get level or close to it and get an alignment.

 

Drunken sailor just start a new thread ..

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

When I turned the t bars up on my truck I turned them up all the way, and got just under 3 inches on lift, I took it to the alligment shop after I got done and the checked it out, and it was all fine, that cost nothing. I have no rubbing problem on or offroad with 33 inch claws and haven't had a problem with the cv axles and I have put over 60000 miles on my truck

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

keys are not l a lift kit , ya you got 3 inches and lost 100% of the trucks droop ability and may even have the UCA riding on the Travel stop.. Not what any one can consider a good idea no matter how many miles you have driven it that way ..

Posted

i cranked mine and went to get it aligned and they had a very hard time trying to get it back to speck i just went up 1 inch they got the toe and camber right but cant get the caster right. I go back tommarow to let them finish but i hope its right. Anyone else have this problem? I am getting a little upset because i am thinking i just F***** up my truck.

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