Jump to content

Hardline That Goes Into Radiator Below The Upper Radiator Hose?

tweba99

By tweba99
in Ask A GM Technician

Recommended Posts

tweba99 Enthusiast

tweba99

Posted
Posted

I am getting my coolant flushed tomorrow and I have had a slight leak. I topped off the coolant this morning and I noticed the leak again. It looks to be coming from a hardline that goes into the radiator right below the upper radiator hose and at the bottom of the radiator on the driver side that heads to the back fo the engine. Any idea of what this line is? I think the part that is leaking at the rubber hose where it has a fitting going form the hardline to the back of the raditor to another hardline below the engine. Both lines are wet so I am sure they are both leaking. There is "orangish-redish" fluid at both fitting locations so I am guessing that it is coolant from this line especially since it started leaking again after I filled up the reservoir. Any help would be great. Thanks.

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

Are you talking about the metal lines with screw in fittings that thread into the radiator? If so those are transmission cooler lines. Other than hoses that should be all you have attached to the radiator...

 

Anybody else?

Silverado4x4 Senior Enthusiast

Silverado4x4

Posted
Posted

Yeah there transmission cooling lines (hard lines) if there leaking then its trans fluid. But on the other hand there maybe a small hole or crack in the radiator and the antifreeze is running down to them. Hard to say since we cant see it.

tweba99 Enthusiast

tweba99

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Yeah there transmission cooling lines (hard lines) if there leaking then its trans fluid. But on the other hand there maybe a small hole or crack in the radiator and the antifreeze is running down to them. Hard to say since we cant see it.

 

Thanks guys. I found out that they are the tranny lines and they run through the radiator before the tranny cooler to help out. I looked further into it and smelled the liquid that was leaking and it is antifreeze. I took the "air dam" type skid plate off and the actual skid plate off and you can see that gasket has failed on the water pump and it is leaking and dripping down the engine. Looks like I have something to do this weekend. :uhoh:

Zembonez Senior Enthusiast

Zembonez

Posted
Posted

Well... the BRIGHT side of this is that you found it before a major meltdown and it happened before the temp dropped to frigid!

 

Good luck with the fix.

  • 4 months later...
alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted
Yeah there transmission cooling lines (hard lines) if there leaking then its trans fluid. But on the other hand there maybe a small hole or crack in the radiator and the antifreeze is running down to them. Hard to say since we cant see it.

 

Thanks guys. I found out that they are the tranny lines and they run through the radiator before the tranny cooler to help out. I looked further into it and smelled the liquid that was leaking and it is antifreeze. I took the "air dam" type skid plate off and the actual skid plate off and you can see that gasket has failed on the water pump and it is leaking and dripping down the engine. Looks like I have something to do this weekend. :rolleyes:

 

 

Is this correct? I thought the lines entering the top and bottom of the radiator on the drivers side are engine oil cooling lines. The transmission cooling lines are smaller OD and enter the passenger side of the radiator, connecting to the aux cooler located behind the grill. I just want to make sure we are identifying the lines correctly.

alvocado Enthusiast

alvocado

Posted
Posted

Here are a few pics to help identify:

 

Upper drivers side

post-16167-1205452414_thumb.jpg

 

Lower Drivers side

post-16167-1205452440_thumb.jpg

 

Leaking rubber hoses in the line (I need to replace) located below the stearing gear box.

post-16167-1205452429_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452414_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452429_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452440_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452414_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452429_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452440_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452414_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452429_thumb.jpg

post-16167-1205452440_thumb.jpg

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Transmission Woes :-(

      By newdude · Posted

      You need a better code reader/scanner.  You are missing codes.  Did the dealer give you a copy of the SAVI scan from that visit?     If the fluid hasn't been changed, change it.  Shudder will likely go away.  
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      TLDR to my other post...   Hard. Pass.  Too many what ifs.     Are you set on a 3.0 Duramax?  Have you considered anything not GM just in case?  If you don't have to have a pickup, lots of other options for $27,000 out there.   
    • newdude
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By newdude · Posted

      I see some red flags.   - No mention in the Carfax if the oil pump belt was changed.  LM2s had a 150,000mi service interval, and its got 164,245mi on it.  So right out the gate it needs about $3000-3500 for that to be done before driving it another 150,000mi.  Belt is at the rear of the engine.     - If something happens to the transmission valve body, the special coverage is expired by mileage.  That will likely be an out of pocket expense, with zero or near zero GM participation if something happened even though its in by time.   - 2020 LM2s seem to need timing chains after 80,000mi at some point.  They fixed this end of 2020/starting 2021 model year engines.  They will usually set a P0016 I think?  There is another $8000-10,000 if it needs a chain.  The main chain is at the back, secondary at the front so the pump belt would be done at the same time if it needed chains.     - Long oil change intervals.  7,000-8,000mi on average, probably close to 0% or perhaps to or beyond 0% on the OLM.  Lots of them not at the dealer which makes me wonder how much of the oil ran through that truck was the proper Dexos D rated 0w20 oil and not just gas engine 0w20, which is not the same at all.     - Long fuel filter changes, again likely taking the fuel filter life to 0% or more.  First one went 28,603, second was done 43,094 miles later at 71,697, from there another 46,452mi to 118,149mi, and then the most recent one 37,026mi later at 155,175mi.  So counting its original fuel filter, its had only 4 fuel filters on it.  No bueno IMO.         Good news?    - It has had only two warranty trips to the dealer.  The first free service (end of December 2020 on the Carfax), and the transmission reprogram recall (end of August 2025 on the Carfax).     - Truck did a LOT of moving, so that might explain the lack of emissions related repairs like bad NOX sensors, bad exhaust temp sensors, bad glow plugs, etc.         The "emissions system checked" could just be how something was flagged for Carfax.  GM dealers have to do SAVI reports for warranty repair orders so they scan the truck.  So its possible that is there for that?  
    • cherryred21duramax
      Can anyone decode a VIN to determine if this truck has had emissions issues or a recall?

      By cherryred21duramax · Posted

      Thank you, @Z45!   NOTE - No all repair shop/Dealers reports to Carfax   That is my main concern.  The CARFAX looks way too clean for a 6 year old anything with 164,245 miles.  Even something known for reliability (like many Toyotas) typically has a lot more replaced, like a Nav screen, interior trim, shock/strut, or brake pads.  And surely the last set of tires (installed at ~58k miles) would be bald unless those were all highway miles.   I'm tempted to pay a local dealer to look up the VIN, but am not sure if that will be worthwhile.  Last time I did this, it was 100% useless, and I felt scammed - they noted the bumper was replaced years ago and that's it.  A 5-year old could spot the accident damage, even though nothing was on the CARFAX.   After giving the dealer a call, the truck may have a hard shift, but they have to verify with their mechanic if that's even a concern.  And I've test driven about a dozen of these now, many near Chicago, and half the trucks shift hard/odd at all throttle positions.  The ones with aftermarket lifts/larger tires shift terrible, and 3 stock trucks shifted so violently I thought the transmission valve body was going out.   At this point I'm conflicted, as I need a vehicle, and am coming up short locally.  Northern trucks in this price range tend to have either multiple owners, a lot of mods (lifts/oversized tires without re-gearing), and are generally in rougher shape.   If this truck showed up in your neighborhood for $27k and you had to purchase it sight-unseen, with the possibility of needing a 10L80 rebuild, torque converter, or rear end - would you do it?  I'm convinced most of the 10L80 trucks I test drove are broken, they can't all shift so bad, with massive flares/slipping/lurching and mis-matched downshifts like a teen driver learning stick.
    • Griffin Donovan
      2027 GMC Sierra Spot Shots + Undisguised Interior (BIG Changes!)

      By Griffin Donovan · Posted

      From the spy shots, the front end does look like it's borrowing some styling cues from the Canyon. I'm more interested in the powertrain news than the screens though. If the 3.0 diesel survives into the next generation, that alone will keep a lot of current owners interested.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...