2008 With Integrated Trailer Brake Control

[LF Motorsports]

Looking for some help if I don't get an answer from the dealer tomorrow. Went to hook up my trailer tonight and no juice to the electric jack. This is wired to run off of the auxilary power at the plug on the truck. It worked with my old truck but I wired it. The truck was running but not hooked up at the time I tried things out. Lights worked just no aux power.

 

Is there a fuse that I need to install to get power back to the plug for the auxilary power?

 

I will check with a multi-meter in the morning to verify "juice or no juice".

 

But if someone has run into this, it would be appreciated.

 

Lance

[sonjaab]

You need to put a maxi fuse in the stud #1 position in the underhood

fuse center to power up the power wire in the trailer wiring plug.

[LF Motorsports]

Thanks. I will have to pick one up tomorrow. And look to make sure I get it in the correct spot.

[asilverblazer]

You also need to connect the wire to the underhood electrical center. Its taped up either under the brake master cylinder or between the underhood electrical center and the fender (Where ever your trailer brake wire wasn't). It goes on the post next to where you connected trailer brakes power. Also need said fuse. /\ /\ /\

[MS3DALE]

Service Information 2008 Chevrolet Silverado - 4WD | Sierra, Silverado (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 2014482

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#06-08-45-008A: Information on Auxiliary Power Wire at Trailer and Installation of Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller - Towing, Tow - (Sep 18, 2007)

 

 

Subject: Information on Auxiliary Power Wire at Trailer and Installation of Aftermarket Trailer Brake Controller -- Towing, Tow

 

 

Models:

2007-2008 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT

 

2007-2008 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

 

2007-2008 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon Denali, Yukon XL, Yukon Denali XL

 

 

Important: Installation of an electric brake controller and the wiring connections outlined in this bulletin are the responsibility of the dealership or customer. These repairs should never be charged to warranty. If you have any questions, please consult with your District Service Manager.

 

Some customers may have questions on how to connect an electric trailer brake controller or where the brake controller pigtail harness is located.

 

Starting with the new 2007 full-size utilities and pickups, there is no longer an electric trailer brake controller pigtail harness.

 

An aftermarket brake controller will need to be installed/connected to the blunt wires under the left side of the IP for vehicles built without JL1 - Integrated Brake Controller. The following steps should be used to complete the installation.

 

Locate the trailer brake control circuits that are looped and taped to the main harness under the instrument panel.

 

Pull the trailering wire harness down.

 

Match the vehicle harness label circuit functions to the trailer brake controller jumper harness functions.

Important: The color or wires to be joined together may not match.

 

• Dark Blue Wire: switched power from controller to trailer brakes

 

• Red with Black Stripe: fused vehicle power to electrical brake controller

 

• Light Blue with White Stripe: Brake switch input to power electric brake controller

 

• White: ground

 

• Orange: CHMSL (Center High Mounted Stop Lamp) -- not required with most systems

 

After completing the under dash connections to the electric brake controller, open the hood and locate the red wire that is taped to the harness between the underhood electrical center and the driver side front fender.

Break the tape on the red/black wire and pull it toward the front of vehicle.

Remove the lid from the electrical center.

 

Place the terminal on the larger of the two studs at the front of the electrical center and secure with an M8 nut. This is circuit #242 to stud #2, to power the aftermarket trailer brake controller.

Important: The fuse is already present in the vehicle to power the electrical trailer brake controller system.

 

AUXILIARY POWER: Circuit #742 for Auxiliary Power at the 7-way trailer connector is no longer connected by the GM Assembly Plant. If the customer desires auxiliary power at the trailer connector location (i.e. refrigeration, battery charger or interior light in the trailer), complete steps 8.1 thru 8.4 to connect circuit #742:

8.1. Locate the red/black wire, looped and taped to the chassis harness, below the brake master cylinder.

 

8.2. Break the tape and route the wire to the front of the underhood electrical center.

 

 

8.3. Place the terminal on the smaller of the two studs on the electrical center and secure with an M6 fastener. This is circuit #742 to stud #1 for auxiliary power to the 7-way trailer connector.

 

8.4. ONLY for vehicles without RPO TP2 - Auxiliary Battery, install a 40 amp fuse to power the circuit.

 

 

Important: For vehicles equipped with RPO TP2 -- Devices powered by this fuse will drain the vehicle battery if left connected with the vehicle not running.

 

GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.

 

WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION

 

© 2008 General Motors Corporation. All rights reserved.

[LF Motorsports]

I looked this morning and the wire is not hooked up on stud #1 which form the Wiki (and thanks for the great instructions). So, it seems all I have to do is hook up the wire to stud #1 with a M6 nut and put a 40 amp fuse in position 68.

 

And from the note, it is not done at the GM assembly plant. I'm not a GM technician but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night .

 

Should verify all this works tonight!

 

Thanks for all the help.

[Raymond Lowe]

There's something a bit odd about the instructions from GM. Tekonsha calls for an automatic resetting breaker, not a fuse for the trailer brake circuit and I'll bet it's law in many states and provinces. Plus, the size of the fuse/breaker is determined by the gauge of the wiring and axles on the trailer. My 2008 has factory 14ga wiring for the brake output which requires smaller amperage protection than 12ga wiring for obvious reasons. I haven't connected the wires under the hood yet so I'll have to see which type of breaker I'll need to fit the location. There are breakers that fit Maxi-fuse slots.

[LF Motorsports]

All right.... Now I'm confused. GM had hooked the wire up with the wire under the master cylinder to the larger stud (stud #2). Which is wrong from what I have read here. So they hooked up the Aux power instead of the power to the break controller. And I hooked up the other (so backwards)... The read-out for the brake controller from the DIC shows the gain but dashes on the output. I do not have aux power to the plug and the brake controler does not work. Guess I'm looking at it to simple, if both have power all the time, why does it matter which stud to use? Anyway, will see.

 

I am going to switch the wires to see if that changes things.

 

Update: Swapped wires on the studs and now trailer brakes seem to work. BUT no aux power still. Checked with multi-meter and no power with key on, at the + post in the wiring harness plug (beside license plate). There is 12 volts on both studs at the fuse block (engine compartment). Rechecked, nothing at the plug at the back of the truck. I put (and had the whole time) a 40 amp fuse (taller than OEM, but still a maxi-fuse) in position #68 as instructed.

 

So, any suggestions? Is there another line to connect or what?

[sonjaab]

Read this link:

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?...rake+controller

 

Pics and instructions there

[LF Motorsports]

I really hate doing this. That is, I feel like I'm dragging this out WAY TO MUCH. I read the other thread and somewhere it states a possible other fuse. Is there a fuse missing in a "IP fuse panel" inside the truck that needs to be installed also?

 

Again, with the correct wires hooked up to the correct stud, the brake controller seems to act correct. (step on the brake, little lights move to the right.) And, this is the intergrated brake controller, so I assumed it would be hooked up correct at the factory (brake contol power wires was hooked to the wrong stud).

 

I just wonder if I'm missing a fuse somewhere . The 40 amp for the stud is still good and installed.

[MS3DALE]

I answered your PM Lance.

I think you still might be missing a 40 amp fuse in the electrical center under the hood.

[Bostonsfavson]

I don't know if we ever got to the bottom of this, but: 12V constant feed. Section A-57. There's some good info there, with pictures.

[pagerboy]

My 12v feed was not hooked at the back of the truck.