How Do You Change The Oil?

[Steveman]

With my Sierra being my first vehicle and nobody in my family being too mechanically inclined like I am, I have no idea, and nobody to ask, on how to change the oil in my truck. Now I do know that it could be as simple as driving to my nearest GMC dealership and having them do it, but I dont want to do that. I want to have the satisfaction that I have succesfully changed the oil on my truck, and also have the ability to rest easily knowing that I put a good synthetic oil in. Now I have the resources to change the oil because one of my friends dad is a former funnycar dragracer and so at their farm they have a machine shop with any tool that I would ever need. So, I have the resources, now I just need to know what to do. I would greatly appreciate it if anyone would kindly take their time and do a writeup on how to change the oil what all is needed. If its more complicated then I probably think it is, then just tell me and I would also greatly appreciate that.

 

Thanks in Advance

Steven

[Griffin86]

 

1. Go for a little drive to warm up the oil
   
2. If you aren't skinny drive it up onto ramps
   
3. Oil bung is on the bottom of the oil pan pointing to the drivers side. It will use a 15mm wrench.
   
4. Get an oil bucket to catch the oil. (it will shoot far and get a big enough one so it can hold atleast 6L)
   
5. Once its done wipe the bung off and put it back and snug it up
   
6. Use a filter wrench and unscrew the filter. (Careful it will drip oil everywhere, it can be hot) Make sure the old seal comes off with it (contributed by sfabobby03)
   
7. Drain oil from filter, take filter and oil to local drop off.
   
8. Take a new filter(not sure the part number) dip your finger in oil and coat the seal with oil
   
9. Screw it on snug with your hand and then with the filter wrench give it a 3/4 turn
   
10. Unscrew the oil fill cap on the passenger side valve cover.
    
11. Make sure you have your filter and bung tight (Hope Dan is happy now )
    
12. Fill up the oil,(I think with 10w30 but check in your owners manual) with 5.7L or 6 Quart
    
13. Fire up the engine for 15s. Take the dipstick out and wipe it off. Put the dipstick back in and pull it out and check that is between the marks. If it is good, you are good to go.
    
14. Turn your key on(do not start) and pump the gas 3 times fairly fast to the floor. This will reset your oil life monitor.
    
15. Congrats you just changed your oil!
    
16. If you are really paranoid, after a little drive, park it and then check for oil leaks.
    

 

[BigJayDogg3]

And if you have them take off the skid plates. The oil from the filter (I think) will spew everywhere and create a mess on it.

 

Something someone else said that was a pretty good idea, if you have an unused cat box, you may be able to use that to catch the oil.

 

If there's anything we've missed, someone else will chime in, and in the mean time, you can search. A modicum of information is to be found with the little button in the upper right hand corner of your screen. Good luck.

[jamison74]

1. Go for a little drive to warm up the oil

    

2. If you aren't skinny drive it up onto ramps

    

3. Oil bung is on the bottom of the oil pan pointing to the drivers side. It will use a 15mm wrench.

    

4. Get an oil bucket to catch the oil. (it will shoot far and get a big enough one so it can hold atleast 6L)

    

5. Once its done wipe the bung off and put it back and snug it up

    

6. Use a filter wrench and unscrew the filter. (Careful it will drip oil everywhere, it can be hot)

    

7. Drain oil from filter, take filter and oil to local drop off.

    

8. Take a new filter(not sure the part number) dip your finger in oil and coat the seal with oil

    

9. Screw it on snug with your hand and then with the filter wrench give it a 3/4 turn

    

10. Unscrew the oil fill cap on the passenger side valve cover.

     

11. Fill up the oil,(I think with 10w30 but check in your owners manual) with 5.7L or 6 Quarts

     

12. Make sure you have your filter and bung tight

     

13. Fire up the engine for 15s. Take the dipstick out and wipe it off. Put the dipstick back in and pull it out and check that is between the marks. If it is good, you are good to go.

     

14. Turn your key on(do not start) and pump the gas 3 times fairly fast to the floor. This will reset your oil life monitor.

     

15. Congrats you just changed your oil!

     

 

 

Very precise, good explanation and detailed. Two notes if you dont mind me jumping in. The oil life meter can also be reset through the upgraded DIC center, if you have that option, also im pretty sure all the GM LD trucks call for 5W-30. Although its not like you will seize the motor by useing 10W-30. Good luck, and +1 for taking pride in your truck and doing it yourself!

[alaska511]

If you have ramps, drive the front up on them. The oil will just clear the skid plate when you loosen the filter, and not make a mess with the front raised. With the front wheels on the ground, the oil hits the plate and goes everywhere.

[Griffin86]

1. Go for a little drive to warm up the oil

    

2. If you aren't skinny drive it up onto ramps

    

3. Oil bung is on the bottom of the oil pan pointing to the drivers side. It will use a 15mm wrench.

    

4. Get an oil bucket to catch the oil. (it will shoot far and get a big enough one so it can hold atleast 6L)

    

5. Once its done wipe the bung off and put it back and snug it up

    

6. Use a filter wrench and unscrew the filter. (Careful it will drip oil everywhere, it can be hot)

    

7. Drain oil from filter, take filter and oil to local drop off.

    

8. Take a new filter(not sure the part number) dip your finger in oil and coat the seal with oil

    

9. Screw it on snug with your hand and then with the filter wrench give it a 3/4 turn

    

10. Unscrew the oil fill cap on the passenger side valve cover.

     

11. Fill up the oil,(I think with 10w30 but check in your owners manual) with 5.7L or 6 Quarts

     

12. Make sure you have your filter and bung tight

     

13. Fire up the engine for 15s. Take the dipstick out and wipe it off. Put the dipstick back in and pull it out and check that is between the marks. If it is good, you are good to go.

     

14. Turn your key on(do not start) and pump the gas 3 times fairly fast to the floor. This will reset your oil life monitor.

     

15. Congrats you just changed your oil!

     

 

 

Very precise, good explanation and detailed. Two notes if you dont mind me jumping in. The oil life meter can also be reset through the upgraded DIC center, if you have that option, also im pretty sure all the GM LD trucks call for 5W-30. Although its not like you will seize the motor by useing 10W-30. Good luck, and +1 for taking pride in your truck and doing it yourself!

 

 

Yeah I am not familar with the DIC centre, I used 10w30 because it was the only stuff we had on the farm. Also I was going to say instead of pulling the filter off right away you can take a hole punch and punch a hole in the bottom of the filter and drain it out like that... I would have done it on my new truck but it was my first oil change and i wasn't sure how the threads ran. I used that method on my other trucks with no problems. Using the PF-59c on my '99.. its longer.

[THE SILVERADO]

well said.^^^ Yep, i always enjoyed the satisfaction of doing it myself as well.

[VMax2007]

If you have the 5.3 or 6.0 with AFM, you MUST use 5w30. It is required for the AFM system to work properly.

 

If you have the 6.0, the oil drain plug faces the pass side and uses a 13mm socket. My oil pan is cast aluminum so they made the hex smaller so you don't use a big-ole 1/2" drive wrench and strip the threads out.

 

No skid plate removal is necessary, my oil clears my skid plate just fine. I do use ramps though, like Scott (alaskaltz) said. The ramps angle the engine just enough so when you loosen the filter a few turns and let it drain, the oil drips from the rear of the filter and clears the skid plate.

 

Oil change in my truck is a 15 minute job, tops. Thanks to only 2 grease zerks .

[geektoad]

If you have the 5.3 or 6.0 with AFM, you MUST use 5w30. It is required for the AFM system to work properly.

 

 

Whaaaaaat? That's messed up. Can you point me to more info regarding that requirement? I hadn't heard that yet.

[07 CC Sierra]

If you have the 5.3 or 6.0 with AFM, you MUST use 5w30. It is required for the AFM system to work properly.

 

 

Whaaaaaat? That's messed up. Can you point me to more info regarding that requirement? I hadn't heard that yet.

 

 

 

I use 10w30 and have never had any problems. However, AFM is dissabled.

[redvett]

As for checking the oil make sure the vehicle is level and sits for 30 minutes before checking, check your owners manual.

Modern engines have oil drain galleys that older engines did not have and drain down time is longer.

[dlstewart01]

If you have the 5.3 or 6.0 with AFM, you MUST use 5w30. It is required for the AFM system to work properly.

 

If you have the 6.0, the oil drain plug faces the pass side and uses a 13mm socket. My oil pan is cast aluminum so they made the hex smaller so you don't use a big-ole 1/2" drive wrench and strip the threads out.

 

No skid plate removal is necessary, my oil clears my skid plate just fine. I do use ramps though, like Scott (alaskaltz) said. The ramps angle the engine just enough so when you loosen the filter a few turns and let it drain, the oil drips from the rear of the filter and clears the skid plate.

 

Oil change in my truck is a 15 minute job, tops. Thanks to only 2 grease zerks .

 

 

Remember that 5W30 and 10W30 are BOTH 30 weight at operating temp.

 

Don

[VMax2007]

I don't have the info handy, but I did read that the AFM is rather picky when it comes to oil weight. Seems to me that the "30" number would be most critical though since that is the weight at operating temp.

 

Don't shoot the messenger, just sharing what I read awhile back.

 

Edit: On second thought, I may be thinking of the VVT system (6.0 and 6.2 only)? Hmmm?

[crepitus]

another thing i like to do is to fill the new filter with oil so its primed. gets the oil to the motor quicker on the startup.

[redvett]

Actually the newer engines have tighter clearances for emissions so starting in 1997 any engine that requires 5W30 should NOT use anything higher in viscosity. Cold startup can & will result in poor lubrication and crank & rod bearing damage.

Follow the Owners manual suggestions on oil viscosity for your climate.