Transmission Problems On 4l60e Equipped GMC Truck

Dmas · December 27, 2015

Hey gusy

I'm having issues with my transmission, seems to be an electrical problem, when you start the truck put in drive, it will shift fine between gears but after driving for a couple of minutes slip out of gear and if you move the shifter up and down..nothing happens, you press the gas and the truck just revs up like it's in neutral, if I shut if off wait a few minutes and start it back up it will shift and move fine for another couple of minutes and then again slips out of gear, seems to be an electrical issue to me, anybody else has experienced this problem? if so, did you find a solution for it?

Silverado4x4 · December 27, 2015

Hey gusy

I'm having issues with my transmission, seems to be an electrical problem, when you start the truck put in drive, it will shift fine between gears but after driving for a couple of minutes slip out of gear and if you move the shifter up and down..nothing happens, you press the gas and the truck just revs up like it's in neutral, if I shut if off wait a few minutes and start it back up it will shift and move fine for another couple of minutes and then again slips out of gear, seems to be an electrical issue to me, anybody else has experienced this problem? if so, did you find a solution for it?

Have you checked the fluid level? low fluid will can cause this. Also how many miles on the truck.

Edited December 27, 2015 by Silverado4x4

Dmas · December 27, 2015

fluid level is good and oil is still reddish..i still think it's a solenoid issue.

Bonnieboy03 · June 17, 2016

Im hope i can gwt some help on figuring out what tranny pump i need, idk wat brands are good and if i need a 10 or 13 vane?

I have a 03 sierra 1500 with a 4l60e in it. I have a shift kit, servos, and a 3500 rpm stall.

Any help would be great thanks!

Rusty Davis · November 1, 2017

On 8/28/2008 at 4:38 PM, Mike Diaz said:

I've been in the repair business for the past 7 years, including almost 3 years as manager at a specialty transmission repair facility. I thought I would share a few of my experiences with the GM drivetrains.

The 4L60E transmission was one of our most repaired transmissions when I ran the transmission shop. The biggest problem I dealt with was the loss of 2nd, 4th, and reverse. Most people thought they needed a complete rebuild when they brought their truck in, and 9 times out of 10, it would only be the "reaction sun shell" which is a $30-40 part from Transtar (www.transtarindustries.com). One of the biggest causes of the sun shell gear breaking is somebody shifting into reverse while rolling forward or trying to rock out of a situation where they were stuck in snow or mud. It puts a lot of stress on a small gear, and it can either strip out or break. You should always stop completely before shifting from drive to reverse (and vice versa). A reaction sun gear replacement should cost under $1000 including labor. The transmission must be removed to replace it.

One of the other problems that I found on the 4L60E transmission was overheating from towing. If you tow, you should definitely consider getting a Hayden(or comparable) transmission cooler. Your torque converter takes a huge amount of abuse when you're towing and also put out a large amount of heat. If you drive hard, this should be one of your first modifications to the truck. If you overheat a transmission bad enough, you most definitely will be rebuilding that transmission and torque converter. Expect a $1500 to 2000 bill. Possibly more if you drive it until it stops.

Another common problem I found on the 4L60E transmission was the solenoids going bad. There's no rhyme or reason as to why they go bad, but they do. The Electronic pressure solenoid (EPC) was the most common, and can cause slipping, overheating, and a check engine light. The cost to repair the solenoids was usually under $500. Always replace all the solenoids, never just one.

Typically, during any type of service where the transmission pan needs to be removed, the filter should be changed.

The last common problem I found on the 4L60E transmissions was a boost valve leaking internally in the valve body. The boost valve would bleed off pressure that is needed to properly engage the clutches and the torque converter. The fix is a "boost valve boring kit" that reams out the valve bore, then you install a larger valve. This is another major cause of overheating within the transmission. Most of the time, a transmission cooler will not help this problem. Typically this is a $300-400 repair.

That's all I have off the top of my head, if anybody has any questions, feel free to ask, I still have my rebuilder's phone number if I get a questions I can't answer.

I have a 4l60e with my foot on the break put in to gear it vibrates loud?

MadamYukonXL · February 11, 2018

Hi, brand new to forum, and this woman is tired of trying to figure out transmission issues! I'll try to condense my transmission situation, any comments or thoughts about what to do next would be greatly appreciated

I own a 2000 GMC Yukon XL 1500, SLE, 2WD

Started Nov. 2017: Walked outside to a substantial trans leak in my driveway. Did not drive truck for about 2 1/2 months from that point. Started with putting in Bar's One Seal Leak Stop in December. Following the directions, took it to the street, ran it thru the gears, about 2-3 weeks later, no leak. Felt confident to add more trans fluid and get back on the road. Added 4 qts Dexron VI. Go to drive across town for work, truck's slipping changing gears. Figured I needed more fluid. Parked it on level ground, 10 hours later go to leave work, dry as a bone underneath. Parked it in my driveway. Next morning, come out to a leak in the driveway. I take it to a mechanic, who has me buy and replaces the rear transmission seal. Go to leave the mechanic, still slipping changing gears, RPMs going high to 3 to 4, but not even reaching 25 mph. Take it immediately back to the mechanic, he tells me I probably need a new transmission and that's going to cost x amount of ungodly dollars. I then buy a whole kit consisting of new filter, new pan gasket, new solenoids, and 5 new qts of Dexron VI. A friend removed the pan, cleaned it (pan was in fantastic shape), and put all those new parts on. Take her for a spin: does ok at first, until I drive on an incline, starts slipping gears again. If I keep the truck level, it doesn't leak anything. If I park on a slight incline it leaks, and if drive on an incline it slips changing gears. Additionally, (parked in the driveway right now) there is a small engine oil leak towards the front, and at the very front (almost right under the front bumper) there are a couple bubble gum pink colored drops (I thought coolant? But my coolant is highlighter yellow color).....this leak is brand spanking new, so I have no idea! ANY thoughts to what that could be; why it likes to leak fluids on an incline; why it's slipping gears; etc...all would be greatly appreciated! Thanks for listening everyone

Mudbone performance · March 23, 2020

I need help i have a 4l60e that i just rebuild ya not the first they arnt to bad but its back in the truck 98 chevy but starts off in 2nd gear and shift up and down manual first dont work either until you floor it then it down shifts from 2 to 1st then up shifts to 2nd again with my tech 2 i can control the pc solenoid and get first and hold first the sprag checked out during the rebuild please help

yukon jack283 · March 30, 2020

I have a 2004 Yukon and at first I would have to let of the gas for it to shift into 2nd gear now all I have is firsrt I have changed shift silinoids a and b but still have the same problem but when I took out the 2nd andthird shift valves they did not come out easy nor did they move freely in the valve body

yukon jack283 · March 30, 2020

Just now, yukon jack283 said:

I have a 2004 Yukon and at first I would have to let of the gas for it to shift into 2nd gear now all I have is firsrt I have changed shift silinoids a and b but still have the same problem but when I took out the 2nd andthird shift valves they did not come out easy nor did they move freely in the valve body

can some one help me out please

sefiroxx · March 31, 2020

Throwing parts at it. . . Hiking something sticks. .
Pull codes. See if any information only codes are set

You are getting into 1st, so tranny and computer are talking.

Could you get into 3rd after getting into 2nd?

Ideally, you should get a tranny shop to do a diagnostic test, confirming that the computer is commanding gear shift and reading sensors. The computer uses inputs from sensors to determine when to shift gears. These include tech( rpm), tps (desired speed), vss (road speed). If these are not working or the computer can't see them, then the computer won't command a gear change.

danopd321 · November 23, 2020

On 8/28/2008 at 9:32 PM, Mikeee said:

Welcome Mike !

Where ya been ???

We've been waitin' years for a trans guy.

Now we need a:

motor guy

A/C guy

'puter guy

steering wheel guy

front end guy

brakes guy

rear end guy

tires guy

electrical guy

truck wash guy

body guy

paint guy

fuel system guy

Who else do we not have?

jbrewer213 · May 14, 2021

Ive got a 2013 gmc sierra with the 5.3L 4WD 160K miles. Did a trip from NC to OK towing an 8.5X14 enclosed trailer with my household goods and harley davidson inside. needless to say we were at max weight. The truck did fine until we got to atlanta when the rearend went out. 5 days in atlanta and we finally got back on the road. Made it to OK fine. after we got here the transmission started to whine intermittently then finally quit pulling one morning when we got in it. fluid level is fine and not burnt. If you shut it off and wait a few minutes it tries to mve on restart but then slips out of gear....Any ideas what I should check first? As far as I know trans temp never got over 200. No CEL