dynodon Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 Sorry to report, but my coolant leak is back after replacing the gaskets with Fel-Pro gaskets. This is more serious than I originally assumed. After a close check of everything, this is what is bugging me the most. As I said in previous posts, I bought this truck as used. Evidently the original owner had a leak problem also...Who ever did the repair used Fel-Pro gaskets. I matched them against a set of OEM gaskets and there is an obvious difference. The problem is, insufficient torque with the fasteners holding the pump. I know 16-22 ft lb is the recommended value. But what I'm feeling in the torque wrench is a bolt that's about to pull the threads, or a bolt that's flexing(twisting). I haven't forced the issue. As of today the pump is in place with a slow drip...too cold to work outside (18 degrees) with alot of snow. I'm curious to know if anyone has run across the problem with soft bolts, or pulled threads in the block. Has anyone used ARP studs as a replacement for the OEM bolts? The drivers side tightens up with no problem...the passengers side is a whole different story. When I first removed the bolts...I didn't check for signs of failure, just thru them into the solvent tank and brushed them off to be sure they were clean. and used aresol spray in the holes to clear any dirt... didn't look closely enough for thread failure in the block either. I didn't even check the threads and bolt size to see if they were American or metric? I used a 10mm socket to remove them...so that could mean a 6mm bolt? Any help from any retired GM mechanics can reply directly to my [email protected] Thanks...I'll just sit out the snow storm for now
Zembonez Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 Thanks...I'll just sit out the snow storm for now Dammit Don... that sucks. It sounds like somebody over tightened the bolts and stretched at least one of them. Once that happens, no amount of tightening will create the appropriate clamping pressure (obviously) until it finally snaps. I'd replace the bolts (all of them) one at a time and torque to specs. I'd bet that stops your leak and fixes the problem for good. Good luck man.
Alljackedup408 Posted December 7, 2008 Posted December 7, 2008 Thanks...I'll just sit out the snow storm for now Dammit Don... that sucks. It sounds like somebody over tightened the bolts and stretched at least one of them. Once that happens, no amount of tightening will create the appropriate clamping pressure (obviously) until it finally snaps. I'd replace the bolts (all of them) one at a time and torque to specs. I'd bet that stops your leak and fixes the problem for good. Good luck man. +1
dynodon Posted December 7, 2008 Author Posted December 7, 2008 Thanks...I'll just sit out the snow storm for now Dammit Don... that sucks. It sounds like somebody over tightened the bolts and stretched at least one of them. Once that happens, no amount of tightening will create the appropriate clamping pressure (obviously) until it finally snaps. I'd replace the bolts (all of them) one at a time and torque to specs. I'd bet that stops your leak and fixes the problem for good. Good luck man. +1 yeah...that was my thinking as well. Right now I'm just running the engine with the overflow cap loose to keep pressure off the system. I still like the idea of ARP studs and install them with some JB-Weld(LOL) When I rebuilt the engine in my antique I used a complete ARP small block engine kit...great product. I'll get back to it when this weather breaks
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