Jump to content

Window Tint


Recommended Posts

Posted

Looking to tint the windows in my truck.  Who can tell me what to look for in a tint/tint company.  Here in The D.C. area there are LOTS of fly by night places and very few legit places that I have found (by legit I mean having been around more than a year or so).

 

Thanks for the help!

Posted

I had mine done at the rhino linings place.  They have been in business for awhile so i knew it would be a good job

 

2 side windows only cost me $60

Posted

I had 34% put on by a guy at an auto glass place.  He (his company) had serviced all of our broken windshields/glass on cars that came in for service.  He had been doing tinting on the side for nearly 18 years, so I kinda trusted him.  :)

 

So I say, check out legit auto glass places.  Most do tinting.

Posted

Paid $40 for 20% on the front windows to match the back @ a local truck accessories shop.

 

Forgot the name of the film, but its lifetime guaranteed.  I would look for that rather than experience.  If you don't like the way they installed it then don't pay for it.  If its good tint, it should peel right back off in one piece.

 

I'll check on the brand after work..

Posted

If you have an 'Auto One' or 'AutoAmeristar' dealer near you, they are usually good guys to deal with.

Posted

Thanks much.  I'm a computer geek and so I've done a fair amount of research on the internet about film makers.  3M and Lumar (sp?) seem to be among the best.  I found a guy who will do it.  Just gotta work on the price.  Wants $200 for all 5 windows.  Which I guess is not TOO bad??

Posted

I paid $120.00 for all 5 windows plus a strip on the windshield, for the Lumar.  Hope you can get a better price. ???  

 

I'm pretty sure it was Lumar, I'll check the receipt when I get home.

Posted
Thanks much.  I'm a computer geek and so I've done a fair amount of research on the internet about film makers.  3M and Lumar (sp?) seem to be among the best.  I found a guy who will do it.  Just gotta work on the price.  Wants $200 for all 5 windows.  Which I guess is not TOO bad??

Yup, I think mine is Lumar..

 

That seems high guys..  Yours weren't already factory tinted in the back??  thinking.gif

Posted

No, there's something else out there that is top of the line now, something like Solar Guard (I think that's the name anyway) that actually has metallic particles in it.  The concept behind it, is that those metallic particles help the longevity of the tint.  Otherwise, regular tint will fade over the years, this stuff won't.

 

That's why mine was soo expensive for 2 windows.

Posted

One place I checked wanted $55 for the back and the 2 sides on my truck (Reg Cab) using Solar Guard. They didnt seem very reputable and hadnt been in business long. So I went to a place I get all my truck goodies and they did it for $69 it turned out real good. Even got little tags inside the tint on the sides saying I am legal, I think its 35% on the sides then I got 5% on the back. The little tags say something like "Not less than 35%" or something liek that. I dont regret paying the extra even though it wasnt solar guard, this stuff is MSC, MCS or something like that!

Posted

I can't wait to get to Oklahoma so I can tint the sides of the truck (legally)....Delaware does not like the front sides tinted :)

I should be moving this summer  :)

Posted

Well I did it.  Looked around and found a guy thats been doing this since 1984.  He did a buddy of mine's truck and it lasted 3+ years before he got rid of that truck and he went back for his new truck.  Mobile business out of his van.  Nice professional outfit.  Took about an hour and a half and it looks good.  I'm still waiting for the waterspots to disappear but its getting better everyday.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Solargard and Llumar, only 2 brands that do not turn purple over time.

Solargard is top of the line, Llumar is close.

3M WILL turn purple.

MSC used to = Solargard, but I think they sold their tint to BSF.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...