Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Pop open your switch and look at these points. If they are cracked and broken, you should be able to re-solder them and give that a shot.

 

4x4switchBack.jpg

 

It is my understanding that the bad solder/broken connections are the problem with these switches. Make sure to wick up the old solder and use new solder. Don't just remelt the old.

  • 3 years later...
  • Replies 33
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

Daddy,

 

Thanks for the suggestion. My 2000 Silverado has been having a problem with not shifting in and out of 4 WD as well as high and low. I had read a few years ago that the switch box was an issue. I had taking it out and inspected it and replaced with no change. Took my truck to a shop and they said they fixed the problem, actuator sticking from non use. OK I bought that but then the problem continued. I have also been getting service four wheel drive for a few months. I check levels ect and everything was serviced per owner's manual.

 

Last week I changed oil ect and decided to drive in 4 wheel drive and low to throw the oil around. Got stuck in 4 low.... Finally got into 4 HI and started researching again. This time I removed the switch box, removed the solder and resoldered. I replaced the switch and everything works like new.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Steve

Posted (edited)

Daddy,

 

Thanks for the suggestion. My 2000 Silverado has been having a problem with not shifting in and out of 4 WD as well as high and low. I had read a few years ago that the switch box was an issue. I had taking it out and inspected it and replaced with no change. Took my truck to a shop and they said they fixed the problem, actuator sticking from non use. OK I bought that but then the problem continued. I have also been getting service four wheel drive for a few months. I check levels ect and everything was serviced per owner's manual.

 

Last week I changed oil ect and decided to drive in 4 wheel drive and low to throw the oil around. Got stuck in 4 low.... Finally got into 4 HI and started researching again. This time I removed the switch box, removed the solder and resoldered. I replaced the switch and everything works like new.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Steve

fyi ,,,service 4wd doesnt mean the levels in the t case,it means a DTC is in the TCCM to be diagnosed

Edited by govtech4
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I have similar issues with my '01 2500. It has the same switch in the dash, so I will start looking at that. I can hear the motor " enagaging and disengaging", although it probably is not engaging all the way. Would the dash switch not functioning properly cause the motor to not engage all the way? My next thought would be the shift motor, I've seen people with issues with that as well. This makes me feel better knowing I'm not the only one out there with the same symptoms.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

This happened to me too, but it wasn't the switch.

 

If you push a 4wd button and the light on the switch is blinking but never goes solid, get someone to help and crawl under the truck. Have the person push buttons and listen to everything switching. You should be able to hear the transfer case AND the front axle shift actuator working.

 

When I did this, I heard nothing from the front axle shift actuator. $85 and about 15 minutes to replace and everything works great!

 

There is a youtube video from 1aauto showing how to replace these which gives us amateur mechanics a lot more confidence

 

I had this thing in a transmission shop for a week and they couldn't even figure out what was wrong because they believed the computer that was telling them that everything was engaging..... derp.

 

 

 

-2000 GMC Sierra 1500 4x4

  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Not related, but with the manual transfer case trucks, the light on the dash shouldn't come on if the front axle actuator doesn't properly engage. The current for the dash light is dependent upon that actuator doing its job. Obviously this doesn't apply to the electric shift models as the dash light doesn't come on in 4wd high (if I understand correctly). I'm guessing that when people refer to dash lights in the electric shift 4wd models they are referring to the lights adjacent to the switch.

Edited by CapitalTruck
  • 2 years later...
Posted

 

Any Ideas????????

 

I have a 2003 Chevy Silverado lS 4.8l 4x4 with a a manual t case lever I can not get my 4 wheel to engage. Checked the fluid in the front diff and don't see any metal flakes or chunks. I put it on a lift and put it in 4h and drive and the front wheels do not spin but I can hear the t case chain and see the drive shaft spinning. When I engage 4h I can hear the actuator on the front diff engage but no tire spin.my indicator lamp on the dash comes on. I'm at a loss the only things I can think are the front diff actuator sounds like it's working but isn't or a total diff failure. But if I manualy spin the wheels I don't hear anything from the front diff. So I figure even though my actuator sounds like it's working it really isn't. Any ideas or conclusions I haven't thought of????

  • 3 years later...
Posted (edited)

A bit late but it seems like the right place to put it.

 

I have a 2001 Silverado, 5.3 motor, Z71 with 4 wheel drive. Which does not work. I replaced the dashboard switch 2 years ago. Typically, I'm in 2Hi. If I press the 4Hi button, if flashed and then goes solid. I can hear the transfer-case-actuator making noise. I can also hear the front axle actuator making noise. But I don't believe it is in 4 wheel drive (no binding when making tight turns on dry pavement).

 

I was hoping it was a bad ground to the front axle actuator but it makes noise (I put the key on but did not start the engine; put the car in 2Hi successfully; removed the electric connector from the front axle actuator; pressed the switch for 4Hi; the 4Hi switch blinks but does not go solid; crawled under the car and connected the front axle actuator and it made noise; and the dashboard switch goes to solid 4Hi. But no 4 wheel drive.

 

One last thing:Put the truck in run (but did not start); pressed the brake and put transmission in Neutral. I simultaneously pressed the 2Hi and 4Lo buttons and held the press for 10 seconds. The dashboard 4 wheel drive switch does go to Neutral and the truck will roll freely. Put it back into 2Hi successfully.

 

I don't recall hearing any grinding noise last year so I'm hoping my transfer case is ok. My next thing to try is removing the front axle actuator and cleaning it up. 

 

However, I am open to suggestions. Please.

Edited by rgp717
Posted

So, I read on another forum of a way to test the front axle actuator. Chock the back wheels, put the car in Run (don't start it), put transmission in Neutral, put on 4HI, raise the front tires (both) off the ground, and spin the passenger tire by hand. 

 

If the driver tire spins in the opposite direction, then actuator is OK. If not, then replace actuator.

 

I tried this test, and my driver side did not spin. So, that means I need a new front axle actuator.

 

Has anyone ever heard of this test before? Do I really need a new front axle actuator?

Posted
51 minutes ago, rgp717 said:

So, I read on another forum of a way to test the front axle actuator. Chock the back wheels, put the car in Run (don't start it), put transmission in Neutral, put on 4HI, raise the front tires (both) off the ground, and spin the passenger tire by hand. 

 

If the driver tire spins in the opposite direction, then actuator is OK. If not, then replace actuator.

 

I tried this test, and my driver side did not spin. So, that means I need a new front axle actuator.

 

Has anyone ever heard of this test before? Do I really need a new front axle actuator?

It's more than you need to do.

 

Shift into 4wd, maybe move the truck slightly so the gears get into place.

Lift up one front wheel.

If you can't spin the wheel, you are in 4wd.

If you can spin the wheel, something isn't working right.

 

Reach under the truck and try spinning the front driveshaft with your hand.  If you can spin it, there's a problem in the transfer case,  Encoder may have failed if it's electric shift, chain broken are common things, but it could be other stuff.

 

If front driveshaft doesn't spin, then the problem is in the front diff.  Unscrew the actuator in the front diff (put the vehicle up on jackstands for this).  With the actuator removed, plug it back into the wiring harness, and see if it goes in/out as someone shifts in/out of 4wd.

 

If the actuator does go in/out,then something is broken inside the front diff, likely the passenger side stub axle or the locking ring (this is what the actuator moves).

If the actuator doesn't go in/out, then it could be the actuator, or a wiring/connector problem, or the sensor on the transfer case that isn't working.

 

Diagnose, then replace/fix what's broken instead of just throwing parts at the truck.

Posted

Each of those steps makes sense. Currently I believe my front axle actuator is bad (even though it makes noise when I engage 4HI). However, as soon as this bad weather clears, I'm going to try your suggestions. Thank you. I'll post back one way or the other.

Posted

Davester,

I was getting ready to try your experiments. But I have a question. So, I will start the car, press the button for 4HI and then I'll put the transmission in Drive to move it forward a bit.

 

Do I put the transmission in Park or Neutral or what when I lift the front wheel to do your tests? 

 

rgp717

Posted

park is what you want, so the vehicle doesn't move while you are doing the test.  The tests are checking what's connected to rear of the transmission.  If it rotates, it's not connected, if it doesn't, it is connected.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

OK. Finally got a nice day and I got off my lazy butt. Put the Silverado in 4HI, drove it 50 ft into my driveway. Put it into Park and chocked the wheels. Lifted the driver side tire up and off the ground. Crawled underneath and could NOT turn the front driveshaft. So, next I need to remove the front actuator and see if it works or not. I'll post when I do that.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...