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07 1500 Silverado Torsion Bar Adjusted


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Posted

I have an 07 Silverado 1500 4x4 that I have been wanting to level for some time. Today, while getting a tire patched at a local tire store, a guy told me that he could level my truck without a leveling kit. I told him that I had read quite a bit about it and that nowhere did someone say that a simple turn of the wrench would give me 2" of lift up front. He assured me that it would, and that it wouldn't affect the ride any, other than a slightly noticeable stiffening up front. I let him adjust the torsion bars, and sure enough, it raised the truck. He didn't 'mark' the starting point, or count threads on the bolts; just tighted them all the way in, then backed out slightly. The ride did stiffen some, and it pulls ever so slightly to the right.

 

When I got home, I researched it online, and found tons of negative comments about adjusting the torsion bars for lift. I'm regretting it now. What is your opinion?

 

Do I worry about it? How do I get it re-adjusted back to stock if that's what I decide? I'm wanting to put some 285's under my truck, and was trying to save on the $350'ish it was going to cost me to get the leveling kit installed.

 

Thanks for the replies...

 

 

Dave

Posted

You are going to get mixed reviews on this. The answer depends on the truck, driver, the thin pedal(the gas), driving conditions, off-road use, over-torquing the bars...etc.

 

Many people do this, and have no issues other than a little stiffer ride like you are experiencing. Then again, there are people who are strong advocates against it. If all you are seeing is a lil pull and some stiffness then I wouldn't worry about it. If you plan on beating this thing up off road where the suspension flexes, then I would raise an eyebrow. Daily driving you should be oki dokie.

 

I'm sure by the end of this thread there will be multiple thoughts on this some differing from mine.

Posted

A leveling kit won't stress the torsion bars as much as cranking the factory ones...Your alignment is probably off after having the torsion bars adjusted, thus why it pulls to the right.

Posted

Just measure from the ground to the fender well opening height. Use the rear to guage what to do on the front. Most sit a little lower in the front, so lower the truck till you get the ride and height you're looking for.

 

Loosening both the same ammount, press up and down on the front end to make it settle, then remeasure you height.

 

It probably didn't hurt anything, I wouldn't stress it.

Posted

Dude your truck will be fine... You might want to get an alignment though so it doesnt wear your tires funny. Torsion bar crank is no big deal people have been doing it for years.

Posted

you'll be fine. ive gone over 50k miles with mine cranked. and i wheel it and what not too with oversized tires and everything. new keys basically do the same thing. dont worry about it.

Posted

Thanks, Guys! That makes me feel somewhat better. Tuesday, I'm taking the truck to get new wheels and tires. 285's. I told the dealer what I had done and he said that he would even out the truck and correct the slight 'bulldog' that the truck has now. He said that I would have to get an alignment, and that he would recommend 4 local places that actually measure the toe-in and camber.

 

Thanks again for the responses.... I'll post a picture of the finished product when its done!

 

CANT WAIT! My truck is Dark Blue, and I'm getting black Pacer 342b's and Nitto Terra Grapplers...I think it will look sweet!

Posted

So he cranked them ALL of the way and just backed them out a bit? I would back them out a little more. Full crank is way too much. The truck is pulling b/c its maxed out. When its maxed out they dont hold an alignment. I hope they did an alignment afterwards too. Not going to kill your truck, but I would address them sooner then later. My advice, lower it a tad, then get an alignment.

Posted

I was supposed to get new wheels and tires yesterday (Tuesday) but the guy ordered 16" by mistake. Everything has been reset to Friday now.

 

When I take it in, the tire guy is going to readjust the torsion bars.....he already said that he crawled under the truck and saw that they were maxed out, and would back them out some. He will measure it all the way around, and take out some of the bulldog.

Posted

Sounds like a plan. I'm sure they will advise you to have an alignment performed afterwards, but if not, tell them you want one.

Posted

No problem w/ the torsion bar adjustment. I have 75,000 on mine now w/ no issues. Alignment, as mentioned here, is the critical part. I know on my year I had to remove the rubber stops so it would not bottom out when I went over speed bumps...not sure if your year has those.

 

BTW...you should go back to that shop and tell that guy NOT to being doing any more favors for people. :D

 

Thank the truck Gods for sites like this! :)

Posted
You are going to get mixed reviews on this. The answer depends on the truck, driver, the thin pedal(the gas), driving conditions, off-road use, over-torquing the bars...etc.

 

Many people do this, and have no issues other than a little stiffer ride like you are experiencing. Then again, there are people who are strong advocates against it. If all you are seeing is a lil pull and some stiffness then I wouldn't worry about it. If you plan on beating this thing up off road where the suspension flexes, then I would raise an eyebrow. Daily driving you should be oki dokie.

 

I'm sure by the end of this thread there will be multiple thoughts on this some differing from mine.

 

 

This Silverado is looking great. How you have increased its height and how much it cost to you? I too to do this with my Envoy.

Posted

I have been thinking about this very subject for a few days now. I want to bring up the front of the Suburban to fit 285s, and have been shopping around for a kit. Now, I am pretty mechanically inclined, but for the life of me I can't figure out what the difference is (as far as the actual end position of the torsion bar) between cranking the stock keys or installing the re-indexed keys. With either method, you are rotating the t-bars beyond the factory setting, and from what I can see, the only difference between the two is the position of the tail of the key when you are done with the job. I can't see how that has any affect on the ride quality. Am I missing something here? :lol:

Posted
I have been thinking about this very subject for a few days now. I want to bring up the front of the Suburban to fit 285s, and have been shopping around for a kit. Now, I am pretty mechanically inclined, but for the life of me I can't figure out what the difference is (as far as the actual end position of the torsion bar) between cranking the stock keys or installing the re-indexed keys. With either method, you are rotating the t-bars beyond the factory setting, and from what I can see, the only difference between the two is the position of the tail of the key when you are done with the job. I can't see how that has any affect on the ride quality. Am I missing something here? :lol:

 

You are not missing anything. Ride quality will be effected the same with both methods. The ONLY thing a re-indexed key gives you is the ability to crank more. On some trucks the stock keys only give the owner about 1" of increased ride height (which, btw, you really shouldn't go much further than)

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