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With the Transfer Case Selector Switch, make sure that: If when you put it in “Auto” it blinks for a bit then stays lit — or if it doesn’t blink, or blinks then turns off — you might have a problem with the front axle actuator. If when you put it in 4-High or 4-Low it doesn’t light, or if it blinks then turns off, you might have a problem with the transfer case shift motor/encoder. If when you put it in 4WD nothing happens with the switch, but the “Check 4WD” light comes on in the DIC, you might have a problem with the transfer case control module, located behind the dashboard near the location of the transfer case selector switch. But before replacing any switch or controller, make sure that the ground connection going to it is viable. The ground wires for the selector switch and TCCM are attached to the frame under the front of the driver’s door. Unbolt these wires, clean their contact area to bare metal as well as the bolt threads, and reattach the wires to the frame (5 minute job).

Just changed and sampled our 59000 mile 22’ Ltd trail boss 2.7 T to RLI 5w30. Will let you all know how it performs and consumes. Finished 3 tests with Delo 600 10w30 but it was beginning to form deposits under oil fill cap, as it is not full synthetic so it could not hold up to the L3B. Chevron ISO SYN is not good enough for our engines. The no ZDDP engine oil worked fine as far as that additive being 0. Once the borate ester additives depleted wear rises. It did stop or slow significantly oil usage. Will share test 10 here so someone like Grumpy can use it to learn oil analysis interpretation.

You can run 275/60/20's no problem. Lots of tire options in that size. Michelin Defenders, Toyo Open Countrys are my picks. Nothing in a E rated tire on a half ton.

The actuators can become stuck due to corrosion around the threads, try unscrewing it, if it unscrews easily that is not your problem, if you can not unscrew it try cleaning the threads before buying a new 1. I have had to disassemble the housing before to get them off they get so tight

BFG AT KO2 I've lost track of how many sets I've had and how many miles I've put on them. I think I'm over 5 sets now and over 300,000 miles... Oddly, I've never worn them out, I've sold my trucks wearing them while still with plenty of tread. They've always had plenty left at 60,ooo miles. No punctures, no blow outs, no odd wear, no excessive noise, no balance problems. Good traction in the dry, snow, dirt, sand, mud, gravel... I'm not sold on the KO3 yet, I know the tread blocks are closer together and against my own advice, I want to try the HD Terrain.

Wade thanks again. The USA made ones came today and are way better than the ones from Amazon. Looks OEM and fit is perfect.

Cooper AT3 4s, or Michelin Defenders.

Hankook Dynapro AT2. I have been running a 22 inch version for 5 years now and love them

I put a set of CONTINENTAL CROSS CONTACT LX 20 on my 2017 Silverado LTZ after the original tires. I wanted a good mileage tire that gave a smooth quite ride. I'm very pleased with these, got them from Discount Tire. Good luck on your choice as you will get many suggestions.

This will be the stuff I use on my next oil change. Interested to see your results.

As in the guy your asking if he fixed the issue made 2 posts on this thread and never logged back into the site. Short answer, he won't be giving you an answer.

Thanks - now that you mention that the reason I'm wanting to change for a lower one is last week had a new set of all 4 shocks/struts put on - Bilstein 5100's. But now it sits about 3/4 of an inch higher. No idea why since it was on the lowest setting which should have been stock height. Maybe it will settle after driving a bit? But the bolts should be free. I was on the fence prior to this, but now it just bugs me and just think I'd like to go down about an inch or so. or maybe it's an excuse to go up a tire size and fill the gap in that way ; )

If you don't feel confident or mechanically inclined, my suggestion is to let someone else do it. And just a fyi, you mentioned it was done a few years back. Last year I decided to ditch my Rough Country 2" level and OEM struts in favor of different struts. Mine had been installed for a few years. When I went to remove those lower strut bolts, I had problems with a couple of them snapping in half and also getting stuck in lower control arm because of rust. It was a major PIA to get it done. It was definitely a lot more involved than just removing lower bolts and swapping out those blocks with new ones.

The OP was a 2 post and gone. If you do need to swap out the module it's best to get ahold of https://www.whiteautoandmedia.com They can program the modules.

I never got around to adding a line lock but if you’re going to add it, add them closest to the calipers as you can and don’t cheap out on the solenoid and relays. GL

I do not think that is correct. The bolts are 8mm/ 5/16 probably more in the 35-40 ft lb range but I'm just guessing

I thought about the canyon when I bought my last 1/2 ton. I like the size and the V-6. When I was looking you couldn’t get the extended cab anymore. When it came to cost I got a 1/2 ton cheaper and with more options.

Nicely done @fondupot. Like the setup. Oiled air filter not so much. You do a great job on your videos.

Installed a Cold Air Inductions Intake System on my 2.7. Seems to liven up the throttle response, give a little more power and supposedly MPG. Too early to tell on MPG tho. But it does look pretty cool in the engine bay! See

I did long tubes and built a full 3" single exhaust (along with a DOD delete cam kit) on my 18 'Rado and use my factory two cats and all 4 O2's, using an open flowmaster muffler and resonator, it sounds great and great power and low end torque. But you'll need to learn how to use a HPTuner system.

So I pulled out the injectors and tested them and cleaned them. They were good. With a rubber tip blow nozzle and a plug I tested the HPFP, and wouldn't you know it gas and bubbles coming out of the bottom piston seal. Getting one ordered with new O-ring kit for injectors and intake gaskets. I will post once work is done. Fingers crossed I will be good.

Fuse 34 did the trick for me. Pop a a relay in there if it draws any amperage

It the work was done at the dealer, you should have the part #s of what was installed on the truck on your paperwork. 85585333 is the number. The other method is crawl under it and see if you see "70" stamped in the TBV. Chances are pretty high the dealer installed it because of the TSB for the TBV, and your temps on a hot day sound about right for the new one being installed.

How will you beat the inspection process in your state?

I've been running AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W90 for some time now. Packaging And yes, I like Red Line. The Red Line 75W90NS was gone for a few years. I see it is back now. Used that as primary oil in the Harley. Wet clutches loved it. Both are tough as nails. Neither are easy to shear down. Either is fine.

Yeah it would be safe to use, nothing really special at all about the factory braking system.

You need better research materials. It WILL NOT extend the life of the engine. Pros: ... ... ... ... ... Cons: Sound worse Cost money Check engine light Failed inspection Lower resale What parts in front of the exhaust system do you think are going to last longer? Do you think your small intestines care what kind of shape your @$$hole is in?

Update: Ordered new rims and got 'em installed today - they're Pro Comp 32's (17x9) with 4.75" backspacing & -6mm offset. They poke out of the wheel wells quite a bit so I'll be chipping paint on the rockers in the future but hey - they now clear the control arms! I have some plastic to trim behind the wheel well fabric, the tires start rubbing around 3/4 full lock - yeesh. Hey thanks again for you guy's input. I put 200 miles on my bicycle commuting this week while the truck sat - self punishment for being a dumbass. Here's some pics:

Oh yea, I have been under there to take a peek. I see that one bracket/bolt on the drivers side that would get in the way of one of the two bolts in coming out. Im fully prepared to just cut the dang bolt off and then install the new one with the bolt head on the opposite side. Not sure why they didnt do this initially anyway! I was thinking of doing red myself. I think it'll look good with the dark slate color truck, the red GMC badge, red All-Terrain badge and red recovery hooks.

You can us this one. I have used it in my 2002 Silverado for over 200,000 miles changing it when I got the truck new and then again at 100k and again at the next 100k. No issues. https://www.amsoil.com/p/amsoil-severe-gear-75w-90-100-synthetic-gear-lube-svg/?zo=521390

One red, One chrome

I have, the OEM are actually a good quality product. I have put both the chrome, and a set of red ones on my 16, and 18 trucks. They have held up quite well, and they come with the factory hardware to install, which you will need as the easiest way to remove the ones on the truck is to cut the bolt holding the driver side hook. You see exactly why you need to do this when you start, or the alternative is to loosen bumper, and other parts to make the space you need to extract the bolt. Genius design!

You'll be fine using Amsoil. Thousands if not millions of successful examples out there. There is a little FM in most brands. It's the small additive bottle that gets you into to trouble, causing clutch packs to chatter and lock up when they shouldn't. Grumpy wouldn't have approved my post if my info was bad. I knnow he really likes Redline products. Use what you feel comfortable with

I have a 2016 Tahoe with 100,000 miles that just had the check engine light come on with the code P050D (cold start rough ide)…fuel injectors and gasket. I currently live in Florida and car has been registered in this state since 2021. It was originally purchased in California and registered in California until 2021. florida is not one of the 13 states the special adjustment applies too. When I called the dealership they told me it would not be covered under the special warranty. I then called the GM customer service number directly and they said the fuel injectors WILL be covered. They said it depends on where your car was registered at the time the letter was sent out. Even though I’ve been in Florida a few years my car will be covered because it was registered in California in 2019. The dealership spoke with someone at GM customer service and all is good now…

I’ve always done exhaust on my trucks. I don’t delete my cats. I’ve deleted mufflers. As I’ve gotten older I’ve wanted more of a tuned exhaust more in the background. As far as the cats wouldn’t that trip the light? And in some areas there could be a fine and no passing the vehicle inspection. And lastly cats flow pretty good these days. You could always save up for headers if you really want to increase exhaust flow. And if you don’t do something about the V-4 you’ll hate it.

If you mean straight piped after the 2 required cats then. I have done this on my 2014. I'm assuming you have the AFM turned off. The truck will sound like crap in 4cyl mode straight piped.

After what felt like YEARS of the process of elimination. We replaced all 8 injectors. I now have a strong running truck.

My trailer was 139 inches tall. Once I switched it to 118 inches it calibrated within 2 mins.

Picked up a case...the price alone is worth stocking up. I just did an oil change using the rest of the Mobil1 5W30 high mileage formula. Will run it 5k and then switch to the RLI stuff.

Yes we've done them, they don't fit the opening properly or match any of the coloring etc. If you can get past that drop us a line we are the company that does them for everyone LOL