CamGTP

I would have to be under the truck while someone pushed the brake pedal down so I could listen to it. You should do the same so you can pinpoint exactly where the sound is coming from. I've seen brake pads make the noise on the brackets and the caliper slide pins make this noise. 98% of the time you only hear it while stopped and not when you are moving down the road.

The 4.8 style valley cover is all you need, no reason to buy the most expensive cover out there.

They want the fluid to heat up faster and stay hot for emissions and I'm sure fluid life reasons. But the fluid never cools down once everything is heat soaked because the thermostat will cut off flow. It doesn't strain the pump, it just wears the fluid out faster. Just do the mod because it's free and see where your fluid temps end up. You're over thinking this stuff man. If for whatever reason you feel your temps are still to warm, then consider a cooler.

I walk into places like gas stations and grocery stores without a mask on and I've yet to run into anyone freaking out when they get close to me. Be it me walking past them or them coming close to me. I haven't notice much of a change in the distance thing as it was pretty normal already to not just stand next to someone in an isle or in line waiting for the cashier. I do like watching people touch stuff with gloves on then they touch their phone, their clothes and face. Got some real bright people in this world.

Ahh c'mon, I like being a debbie downer LOL.

Sad thing is, those handheld tuners don't really even change that much because they are just pre-built calibrations very specific changes to get a desired outcome. They can help but still so much could be done if they were able to go in and change things after each specific gear change. Like shift speed/timing, pressures, on-coming clutch pressure presets, torque converter lockup settings.

I used a tuner to disable mine but that's beside the point here. My fuel mileage is basically the same in the city with my short commutes and I can still get 21-22 with ease on the freeway. In the right situations on some stretches of road getting 23-26mpg even with it off can happen. All in all I didn't notice any real change in freeway mileage.

Same, never bought a delco filter for any of my chevy trucks or ponitac's.

My point being the news and media. They want to compare a war or something from 100 years ago to what is going on now. People are still dead, who the hell cares that this many or that many died in whatever other situation from back then. I'm not on the let it buck train yet but with how some of the people in charge seem to think, they'll be nothing to come back too for so many. They are basically saying it's safer to walk into a walmart with hundreds of people to buy something than a store on the corner with 5 people.

To early or dumb to say anything has totally worked. We could spit numbers out all day. Like if 200,000 total die in the USA over however long this whole thing takes, that's still only .06% of the total population. I hate the comparisons to wars or things that happened 50-100+ years ago. Times were different, populations were different.

The 8 speeds I don't think have the cooler on the transmission line like the 6L80e.

The 6 speed auto is behind the 4.3 and 5.3 engines in all the lower trims. The higher end trucks like the LTZ's and High Country's could get an 8 speed auto. I don't know the RPO code but the easy way to tell is if your cluster goes PRNDM for 6 speeds and PRNDL for 8 speeds. Yes, if you do that mod you really shouldn't need an aftermarket cooler. The stock thermostat in the cooler line wants to keep the temps between 185-200 degrees and if you flip the dealio inside the cooler thermostat housing it makes fluid flow all the time instead of waiting for the thermostat to open. Temps should drop an easy 20-30 degrees.

If you have the 6L80e transmission just do the in-line thermostat mod. Remove the thermostat and flip the pill inside of it so the cooler is always open. It should drop your temps by 20-30 degrees easy.

These trucks have dry intakes, there is no coolant flow through them. Your leak could have been from a steam lines under the intake, head gasket or your truck may have had a coolant line going to the throttle body. The downstream o2 sensors should not change the fuel mileage, they only monitor the cats and don't directly change the fueling like the upstream o2 sensors. Downstream sensors when working properly will likely only move from a small voltage swing. Maybe like .500-.700 where as the upstream sensors will jump between .100 and .900 constantly. When a cat converter goes bad, then the rear sensors will toss a code and the voltage swing of the sensor will be more wide spread.

They do make one. It requires voiding your warranty and spending a minimum of $1,900 to purchase a new unlocked computer from HP Tuners and the credits to tune it. I doubt you're going to spend that kind of cash just to go over 106mph every now and then.

Pull the codes. Reduced engine power will give you the fault to look into. The intake air temp sensor is built into the MAF, so you replace the MAF sensor too?

I can't remember if the higher compression LQ9's ran premium from the factory or not. I wouldn't run regular 87 octane that's for sure. I've helped tune far to many of these truck with people running 87 octane, all they do is show spark re-tard with it under heavy load. 89+ octane is far better fuel.

The heads must come off. The DoD lifters must be replaced as they are not the same as the non DoD lifters. New lifters and stock length pushrods are needed if you swapped to a stock non DoD camshaft. Any aftermarket camshaft that is larger needs a custom tune. There is no pre-made tune that would be 100% spot on as the airflow and fueling requirements for each engine just has too many variables. Replaced with a stock non DoD camshaft should only need the DoD and VVT stuff turned off and ideally a few data logs done to make sure it's running good. The tunnion upgrade is not a bad idea, it's not very expensive to do. New valve springs with all the other new parts wouldn't hurt either.

Never heard of that issue with the factory valves or springs. The 243/799 heads are some of the best ones ever made from the factory for a 4.8/5.3 engine, nothing but good things from them. Whichever VVT camshaft you pick should have a recommended valve spring to run with it.

There is no AFM plate in the oil pan. There is only a oil pressure relief valve on the pan where the oil filter goes, if you remove the AFM/DoD system you can remove the valve and plug the hole. You should gain 5-10psi easy in overall oil pressure. Doing the chain and stuff is up to you. They all have slack, even new chains. You will have to decide if you want to keep VVT or delete that too. If you do remove it all, go with a standard 3 bolt camshaft and get a new 3 bolt 4X camshaft gear. The factory gear for the GEN 4 engines are a single bolt camshaft. Fuel system is not an issue. You will have plenty of injector head room and fuel pump for a mild camshaft upgrade. Not much else to do when you change all the other parts. New head gaskets and bolts etc etc. If you do the steps right you aren't going to pop a gasket or run into problems. Also note that doing a AFM/DoD delete and VVT delete will require a custom tune before you can even let the truck run. With all those parts removed it will probably run on 4 cylinders if you're lucky because that stuff needs to be shut off. Then the camshaft will need tuning to dial everything else in.

I see no reason why it's a bad thing but I also see no reason to even use that stuff. If you've been doing it and it works, just keep on using it without a worry.

I have a dynomax cat-back with the ultraflo muffler I think. To me it sounds good and it's not noisy in the cab at all. At warm hot idle to be honest you can't really hear if there is a lot of background noise. 550rpm won't really make it rumble lol. Driving it under load is where you do. I went one step further and painted my exhaust before install because even though it's stainless, it's the cheaper stainless that will still surface rust.

Do you have aftermarket wheels and tires? Are they hub centric wheels? That or out of balance tires could be the cause of the vibration.

How do you add a steering stabilizer when the truck has a steering rack??

2003-2007 is the same body style. They did change the grille and hoods in like 2005.